Justanotherhumanoid's 2006 S60 2.5T AWD Build Log Topic is solved

[justanotherhumanoid]

Okay, update to this, got some time to work on the car (again, a '06 2.5T AWD) and have done the following, pictures and notes to follow. Not quite in the order I had planned, but I saved some time by doing stuff while I had stuff out. Thanks to all who answered my questions and have posted info here for the rest of us to learn from.

1. PCV replacement using the IPD kit.
2. Cleaned ETM.
3. Installed IPD phenolic throttle spacer.
4. Installed Snabb intake spacer.
5. Installed Snabb intake pipe (have decided to keep stock airbox).
6. Installed Snabb Intercooler-to-Throttle Body pipe.
7. Replaced leak detection pump.
8. Cleaned the engine bay.
9. Pulled a new airbox (found mine is warped so much that you can see the filter in the back, covered the gap with foil tape for now) from a junkyard '03 T5, along with a 16T (for rebuild/rework prior to install) and blue injectors.
10. Replaced the driver's side window control switch.
11. Pulled off the lower bumper and patched several cracks (previous owner apparently parked by listening for the crunch of the lower bumper), then repainted/reinstalled.
12. Resurfaced and sealed the headlights.
13. Replaced spark plugs with new OEM plugs.
14. Repaired numerous protective sheaths for electrical connections.
15. Replaced brake vacuum switch.

Okay, pics:
PCV out:

The IPD kit I used came with everything required; it even included thoughtful things like new o-rings for the fuel injectors, which I didn't realize, so now I have some extras for when I install the blues. However, it confusingly came with a different style of banjo bolt for the side of the PCV line that goes into the engine block. Even more confusingly, volvopartswebstore says the one that goes in the block and the one that goes in the intake should be the same, even though the banjo bolts I removed were two different types. Here's a summary of the differences:
Block side:
Original: block-side banjo bolt: 17mm bolt head, large bore-hole through the threaded part.
New: IPD block-side banjo bolt: 19mm bolt head, very small (1-2mm) hole through the threaded part.
Intake banjo bolt:
Original: 17mm check-valve style banjo bolt.
New: the one in the ipd kit was the same as the one I took out.

They were obviously not the same, and that block-side bolt is already tough to get in there as a 17mm head, so I ended up re-using the original with new crush washers, and haven't had any problems. Not sure if there is any benefit to the new one but I figured I was safe enough with the old. The other banjo bolt that goes in the intake was the same, and has a check-valve built in:

Dirty/Clean ETM:

Intake manifold and ETM cleaned prior to reinstall:

New snabb pipes in. The intake pipe was pretty easy, the lower one I installed after re-fitting the intake manifold and I had to adjust a lot to make sure it wasn't contacting the starter motor and had a good seat on the throttle body. The difference in sound with the intake pipe is very slight, but noticeable. I decided to keep the stock airbox.

The leak detector pump was not too bad either. I followed this guide and it worked out great:
viewtopic.php?t=64017

Notably the heat shield above the muffler broke at the rivets as soon as I touched it - you can see it set aside off to the right in this pic:

And there you can see the faulty leak detection pump.

And a closer view...

New pump/old pump:

I JB-welded the headshield back together without detaching the other piece from the rear exhaust hangar bracket:

Replacing the vacuum switch took about 5 minutes - it's in front of the airbox. Disconnect the lines, connect them to the new one, and done:

Removed the lower bumper, repaired the crack with some JB-Weld plastic, screen material, and plastic pieces, then sanded, repainted, and reinstalled:

Headlights revamped; sanded with 220, 800, 1500, 1500 wet, then sprayed with clearcoat. They actually don't look as good as these pics make it seem, I probably should have gone to 2000 or 3000 before spraying, but it's definitely an improvement for now.

Engine bay back together/cleaned:

That's it for now, I'll leave with this pic of the new (used) turbo, just waiting for rebuild/upsizing of the compressor section, and install. More to follow later, like I think I have a fix for my warping airbox problem.

[EngineeringBloke]

Nice work. I am glad you did your lower bumper, too, instead of just living with it.

I am waiting without my car today while my mechanic does some work I am not ready to attempt (valve guides), but I am inspired to fix the scrapes on my bumper. Did you use Volvo paint? It looks like a great match.

[justanotherhumanoid]

So I tried the dealer first and they no longer sell spray cans of my color, so I found a local auto paint shop that can match vehicle paint codes and put the paint in spray cans. My dealer confirmed the correct paint code by using my VIN but it's also on a placard on the vehicle somewhere. You can use whatever automotive primer and clear coat you want, I just got the stuff the guy at the shop recommended to me. Honestly was surprised how well it matched. Props to Meza paint in San Diego.

[dlundblad]

That bumper turned out pretty good. If I was to paint, it'd look like a home job for sure.

Any larger NAPA store should be able to mix paint as well. Just an FYI for others.

I'll stay tuned for the air box fix.

[ndphotonl]

Very well done!

[abscate]

I missed this earlier

The engine back side banjo bolt is for coolant. That has to have flow, and no orfice

The intake manifold banjo is fir vacuum and has an orfice.

Don't mix them up.

[justanotherhumanoid]

Okay, so got around to the next few things finally, here's the latest, details and pics follow:

1. Fixed the warped airbox, should be fixed permanently or until I decide to replace it with some kind of CAI (unlikely).
2. Found a big dent in my front lower subframe, going to have to replace it. Two steps forward and one step back.
3. Pulled some 305mm brake caliper holders from a T5 at a junkyard for future install.
4. Pulled an ATF cooler from an XC90 in the same junkyard for future install.
5. Checked my brakes, brake booster, master cylinder, and brake caliper springs (pedal doesn't seem to really engage or "bite" the brakes until it's pressed down about 3 inches. This is more than I'm really comfortable with, especially after driving a rental car recently that had that nice new brake system feel to it. Started a separate post on that topic here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=89023
6. Picked up an 2004 "R" downpipe off eBay. Since I will eventually have to register this car in CA this appears to be a safe upgrade emissions-wise, and I am only targeting 300hp, so this would be tough to beat for $180.

Okay, details and pics:

1. My airbox was warped a lot, both on top and bottom. Previous owner had shoved it closed without the tabs at the back being fully seated, which bent the top inwards, and a bunch of heating and cooling cycles did the rest and made it permanently bent like that. I could actually just see part of the filter element at the back. My interim fix was to cover the gap with foil tape, which actually worked pretty well but was obviously an interim fix. I ended up getting some threaded rod, lock washers, and nuts from lowe's and adding a sort of support in the middle that can be adjusted to pull or push the airbox to straighten the sides out. I tried to find a junkyard replacement but every single airbox I looked at was similarly warped, if not quite as bad, and the dealer wanted $250 or so for one. I grabbed a less-warped one and used that, unfortunately it has a bunch of scratches so might re-use my old one.

Bent airbox lid:

Straightened with threaded rod:

Top and bottom threaded rods installed (top pushes lid out, bottom pulls airbox sides in):

Reinstalled (got to get rid of those scratches on the plastic somehow):

2. Here's the dent I found in my subframe. No idea how/when it happened but like I said I haven't been this vehicle's primary driver and who knows, I may have missed it on initial purchase). I was initially pretty down when I saw this but after doing some reading it seems that the front lower subframe isn't that hard to replace. Any tips on this are appreciated (will install new bushings when I do replace it):

3. No pics of the 305mm caliper holders but this has been well documented elsewhere, will likely paint these and the calipers first and replace front rotors with 305mm slotted ones when I install these.

4. ATF Cooler from the XC90. This looks like it may take some finagling to install, i.e. some minor bracket fabrication and trimming of air ducting on the front bumper cover.

5. Separate post on the brakes is linked above.

6. Hopefully the '04 S60R downpipe fits and doesn't cause any issues. Since California only identifies authorized emissions parts by year, make, model, and engine displacement, and my engine has the same displacement as an 04-07 R, then this should be good to go in terms of emissions as it is an OEM part as far as CARB is concerned. Otherwise the largest cat I could find only had a 2.5" in/out. Hopefully I'm right, will be able to check at a smog check station before I actually register the car in CA.

[justanotherhumanoid]

Also, if I could I would change the title of this thread to "never- ending build log" or "1 year to stage zero, optimistically" or something more appropriate to what it actually is. Guessing I've put in about a week or more of actual maintenance and I'm only about through day 2 of my plan, with more stuff added based on stuff I've found.

Also needed to revise my goals based on CA emissions laws and some reasonable budget restrictions, so right now thinking the R downpipe instead of the phuzDP, the 16T I found rebuilt into an 18T (still trying to figure out the most economical way to do that), a custom catback, the drop in do88 intercooler, probably an oem replacement radiator instead of the do88, and a big hrm on the tuning provider.

[justanotherhumanoid]

Two tires went flat so had to replace them, took the opportunity to replace all 4 wheels and tires, (otherwise would have spent more to do it later). Black isn't my first choice but the wheels were a good craigslist find and overall I like the new setup (17x8" team dynamics pro race 1.2 wheels with new michelin pilot sport a/s tires). Thanks to you all for recommendations, wouldn't have found these without reading here. Now need to lower that high rear end...

[justanotherhumanoid]

Update - haven't worked on the car much lately, but I did get around to a few things:

1. Replaced front lower subframe & all hardware & front/rear lower engine mounts
2. Installed IPD front sway bar while replacing the subframe
3. "R" Brake upgrade with full brake fluid flush/bleed, stainless steel brake line upgrade, and handbrake pads/springs replacement
4. Installed IPD rear sway bar
5. Replaced engine air filter.

Pics/details below:

Subframe replacement & front sway bar install:
After finding a large dent in the subframe, I inspected it and it appeared to be pretty much confined to one part of the subframe without any real deformation to other components, so I elected to replace it with a subframe pulled from a junkyard S60. Pulling one from the junkyard was a little rough, and installing the new one was going smoothly until I snapped one of the control arm bolts... I was using a torque-spec that I hadn't bothered to double-check, and it was way too high. Anyway, I was able to put it back together with some spare hardware on hand, but didn't dare drive it beyond my driveway until proper, brand-new hardware was installed and torqued correctly.

I was able to access all the control arm bolts by undoing the upper, front, and passenger side engine mounts with the engine suspended on one of those $50 harbor freight hoists, then jacking it up slightly as I tightened up the hoist. That was all it took to get enough clearance to get the old bolts out, which is fortunate since that rear engine mount is a SOB to get to on the AWD models.

The engine mounts have to be undone anyway to remove the subframe so it was an opportune time to replace those. I only did the front and rear lower 2 (not the passenger-side one) as the other two (pax-side and upper) were in good shape and they will be much easier to access when the time comes to replace them.

Installing the sway bar with the subframe out was probably the easiest part. Went back together well, no issues there.

Torquing down the subframe bolts and control arm hardware was also a SOB with the car on jacks - just not much room to maneuver a torque wrench, and a lot of force required to apply the required angle torques. This time I had the correct settings, those things definitely aren't going anywhere.

(Dent in old Subframe)

"R" Brake Upgrade:
After troubleshooting my never-quite-firm old brakes and determining that the problem was likely a sticking caliper or caliper guide pin, I got a little carried away looking into rebuilding, replacing, or upgrading to 305mm brakes and decided I might as well just upgrade to R brakes. I had just installed larger 17" wheels with confirmed fitment over the R calipers, otherwise this wouldn't be possible (stock 16" wheels don't accomodate the larger R calipers). Total cost was somewhere around $1200, including new SS lines, new caliper hardware (pins/springs), new rear dust shields and gaskets, and a handbrake kit. Mostly I knew I wanted to do this eventually, and figured if I just did it now and bought the pads and rotors from FCP, it would be the last time I ever had to spend money on those parts.

Flare wrenches for the lines and fittings were extremely useful, as was the motive power bleeder kit for the flush. The old brake fluid looked like brown mud, so I bled until it was nice and new looking, which took a long time even with the power bleeder. Undoing and re-tightening the rear brake lines was the worst part, as I could only turn the bolt about 1/4 turn at a time due to the cramped space.

I also changed the steering stops to the "R"-version black steering stops at this point, replacing my washer-stack steering stop mod, which fixed my wheel clearance issues at the cost of some, not-very-noticeable reduction in turning radius. The thing already turned like a yacht, now it just turns like a slightly larger yacht.

Thanks to this forum I was able to compile all the parts required for the upgrade ahead of time for a 1-day install:

Parts list:
Ebay P2 "R" Calipers: ~$400
Ebay Stop arms/dampers: $39.26
FCPEuro stuff (646.20 total after taxes & shipping):
Pads and rotors: $446 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... vo-s60rbk1
SS lines: $88 https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... 05#reviews
Motive Power Bleeder ($50 on amazon, $57 on fcpeuro): https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/power- ... ve-mot0100
Dust shields: $150.56 total: https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/vo ... d-30714066
Springs, pins, handbrake kit(s), gaskets: $80.2 shipped https://www.cvi-automotive.se/en/checkout

(Front R Brakes installed)

(Rear R Brakes installed)

(Old Fluid)

(New Fluid)

(SS line installed)

Rear Sway Bar Install:
Followed the included instructions, which glossed over the most difficult part where you have to replace the bottom of the rear strut onto the little horizontal post it sits on, which took me as long as every other step combined, along with a trip to autozone for a spring compressor tool. I'm not sure how other people do this part, but I'm pretty sure the way I ended up doing it is not in any manual. If I did it again I might even opt to have a shop to do this, as I hate messing with spring compressors and I scraped a bit of paint/coating off a spring while doing this install (not a huge deal as I plan to replace these later, but still, if I had planned to keep them I probably just shortened that spring's lifespan a little).

Finally, some easy maintenance:

...and everything back together: