Subframe Bushings - Think i created a major ooopsie

[lobsterclaws]

Dear fellow Volvo Drivers,

creating my first thread in absolute agony
I am in the process of a major repair job on my XC 70 P2 07 year.
I replaced the steering gear (major leak from input shaft) , anti roll bar and also pressed in new rear subframe bushes. All that was quite challenging as i dont have a lift but it was doable.
Getting to my issue - I think i completely ruined my front subframe bushing holes.
I used the 3D printable subframe bushing tool that some generous member of this forum uploaded, in combination with a wheel bearing kit and a threaded rod with nuts and washers.
Left bushing is pressed in but looks very slightly crooked looking at it from the top, it doesnt stand out evenly meanwhile its completely seated flush looking at it from below. I am fearing i created so much pressure by hand tools i bent in the lower portion of the subframe bush hole. For the other side, i dont have the bushing in yet. The one i tried to put in cracked in the installation process.
I tried visualizing it in the photo i attached. The "gap" between the upper and lower portion in the hole isn´t spread evenly anymore, its a small gap in the front, while the rear is a much bigger gap.
Looking at it from below it very much looks like the front part got bent in.
I´m now at the point where i don´t know what to do anymore. I kinda feel this is damaged beyond repair. My only options are getting the bushing in, reassembling everything and see what happens or having to replace the entire subframe i guess.
Any opinions?

[matthew1]

Welcome to MVS, lobsterclaws. Can you upload several close-up photos from different angles? Take the photos from a close distance to the subframe.

[yanga001]

Well, break it down to what you can and cant do. A tow without a subframe will probably more complicated then towing it with a subframe. Waiting for a subframe/sourcing one may take some time right? Also, if the bushing compresses against the frame then that pressure will likely put it all flush/be a non issue.

Those are my thoughts, no definitive answer though.

[BlackBart]

My gut feeling is the uneven gap in that opening is not that critical. The subframe is built from two shells welded together top and bottom. The gap in that opening may just be part of the assembly process, I don’t know.

I damaged mine by pushing the bushings in poorly aligned. The bushing caught that lip at the gap and actually split the steel.

That episode is in this thread I think -
viewtopic.php?p=666689&hilit=Subframe+bushings#p666689

When the bushings are seated all the way in, they and that gap are clamped with big honker bolts.

[Blacklab467]

Need some better pictures but it really doesn't look like anything to worry about. If your super fussy you could get a pry in and make that gap uniform, it may be malleable enough being mild steel. you would be better off installing the bushings in situ at this point using a bolt and washer and the existing threaded hole as a press, I'll include a post that I did on this job for reference.viewtopic.php?p=563260#p563260

[crasbe]

Wow, I didn't think you could apply so much force that the subframe gets bent.

Did you use any kind of lubricant? The subframe looks quite dry. I always use silicone grease because that doesn't attack the rubber.
Perhaps that would be worth adding to the Printables page.

But as the others said, the top part is not suuuuper critical to be straight, the lower part holds and aligns the bushing.

Out of curiosity: Which bushing brand did you use?

[lobsterclaws]

Thanks everybody for the replies.
I got a new bushing in the mail today and went for it again and got it properly seated. The bushing looked seated flush after pressing in so I think I don't have to worry about the slight deformation, maybe it came back down a little in the pressing process.
I used a lot of lubricant on both the threaded rod, subframe and bushing. Getting it started was the hardest part for me.

However I am not sure about my subframe alignment after all. I followed the instructions from Vida for Torque, used new bolts and also new plastic washers. I am pretty sure that the subframe is slightly off the old witness marks at the body. Not sure if this is an issue at all, as I also got a new rear motor mount in and the engine sits about 2cm higher now.
At all I think the flexibility in the bushings might give a little room for the subframe to not sit at the exact same spot as before.
The new bolts looked pretty centered while turning them in so my prediction is that due to the new motor mount, new steering gear and all the lifting/lowering it might not sit at the exact same spot but is still in place thanks to the "locating pins" on the left side.
I went with Delphi bushings for the rear and Meyle for the front. All of them required some "cosmetic" work, removing outstanding rubber edges from production process for example. I wanted the surface as even as it can be so the bushing won't get stuck due to excess rubber sticking out.
For now the subframe is mounted, all engine mounts are back in place and I was able to start the car to check the new steering gear for leaks.
I couldn't find any leakage yet and I hope it stays like that.

Big thanks to everybody that replied!

[lobsterclaws]

In addition to my previous post:
I am German based and the car motor is a diesel engine, I know they are complete uncommon in the US. The diesel version of the XC uses two different variants of the subframe bushes for the rear and front.
Dear crasbe, thank you very much for the 3D Printable tool. The job would have been impossible for me without having that. If I can buy you a beer or coffee for your outstanding work let me know how.
My next steps will be to complete the front axle parts (anti roll bar links, covers etc..) and flushing the power steering system.
For those interested I attached a photo of my old steering gear - leaking badly from the input shaft. Whole subframe was wet.

[Krons]

Hopefully those bushings work out. If you have to do again I would go with Volvo parts as when I did my S60 they were not that much more money.

If you do motor mounts — definitely do the OEM brands (Hutchinson) as the Off brand ones I used made the car vibrate worse after install than the 150k+ mile old ones.

[crasbe]

Dear crasbe, thank you very much for the 3D Printable tool. The job would have been impossible for me without having that. If I can buy you a beer or coffee for your outstanding work let me know how.

I'm glad you found the tools useful. Unfortunately I drink neither coffee nor (much) beer, but posting a Make on Printables would already help.

If you do motor mounts — definitely do the OEM brands (Hutchinson) as the Off brand ones I used made the car vibrate worse after install than the 150k+ mile old ones.

Never heard of "Hutchinson", I don't think those are available in Germany. But you can get Lemförder engine mounts, although they are somewhat pricey. Also other shades of quality.