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How to remove fuel pump without dedicated tool?

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's stylish, distinctive P2 platform cars sold as model years 2001-2007 (North American market year designations).

2001 - 2007 V70
2001 - 2004 V70 XC (Cross Country)
2004 - 2007 XC70 (Cross Country)
2001 - 2009 S60
2003 - 2007 S60 R
2004 - 2007 V70 R

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sergio
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Year and Model: S60 2002
Location: Mass

Volvo Repair Database How to remove fuel pump without dedicated tool?

Post by sergio »

S60 left hub.
Any suggestion how to open/remove fuel pump without the dedicated tool.
I tried and tried a hammer-screw-drive / wood dowel- hammer without success.
There is one here below but you need welding tools !!!!
Any other suggestions?

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... p+s60+tool
S60 2002 180K miles looks and runs like new (except when sulking)

JDS60R
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Post by JDS60R »

I never had an issue with a dull large screwdriver and a 3lb hammer. I do spray the area down with a lubricant and let it soak in for 4 minutes. I use SiliKroil as the lubricant (www.kanolabs.com)
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volvosurfin
Posts: 33
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2010 5:15 pm
Year and Model: 98 v70 T5
Location: Oahu, HI

Post by volvosurfin »

If the area is similar to my 98 V70 T5 this may help.

Mine was tough to get off too. I tried the hammer/screwdriver method and ended up taking a few chunks outta the engine body around and just under the old seal so I stopped

I came up with this idea which seemed to work quite well.

I used a razor blade (carefully, fingers are handy for future repairs, I put on some tough mechanics gloves) to separate the old gasket and sealant from the block. Took a long thin razor blade and judicious electrical tape around the other end to create a relatively low profile knife, almost felt like I made a shiv. I could then get nearly flat onto the engine surface with just a little pressure. Moving carefully up to down slowly slicing intot the gasket. Only had to work it under about an inch of the gasket and gasket maker so that I could start putting a little clockwise/counter clockwise torque on the pump. Then I used a small pry bar with vice grips to help pry it up from there.

I think the pumps get so tight you just can't create enough force on the seal to break it away. Just a little bit of freedom let it shift enough to pop free. Came off relatively easy at that point. Keep cutting away at the gasket until you can get it.

I used a green scratchy, medium grit sandpaper (very lightly) and careful scraping with the razor blade (I learned it too can mar the metal) to get any residual gasket off. Had to use gasket maker to fill the small defects I created initially with my screwdriver and apparently the grooves put there by the last person to take it off. No leaks for about 12000 miles now. Also make sure to clean away the material you worked off, not good in the coolant system I suspect. Helped reduce the risk by putting towel just inside the the hole.

Notably I think the bad pump may have contributed to the death of my thermostat (or vice versa) followed by the intercooler in the radiator which had almost convinced me to change the head gasket. I'm a rookie, learning cars for the first time with this Volvo, but seemed to make sense at the time.

So it might not be a bad idea to check and replace thermostat, easy and cheap and as I understand it, a cheap part that could destroy your engine in the right circumstances.

Good wrenching.


Hope this helps.

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

On a number of cars I use large Channel Lock (AKA Water pump pliers, nothing to do with a water pump) to grip the retainer ring or gland nut and then while holding the pliers tightly I use a pry bar or large screwdriver to turn the pliers. on others that are internal lugs, like the S60 and other P2's, I use large snap ring pliers and the screw driver.
This is the second effort if two 16 inch long screwdrivers crossed will not engage the lugs and turn the retainer.

sergio
Posts: 219
Joined: Wed Jan 04, 2012 1:41 pm
Year and Model: S60 2002
Location: Mass

Post by sergio »

Thank you all but hammer lubricant etc did not help. So I made my own tool.

I took a piece of ABS piping (the part that we screw to the floor than we screw the toilet seat on it?) made six holes around the neck, put 4 mechanical screws (small tread) in there. Made a hole in a piece of wood (to let the wires through), assembled the two together. Adjusted the screws around the neck to get a tight grip. With the help of a mallet loosened and finally opened and removed the ring. :D
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S60 2002 180K miles looks and runs like new (except when sulking)

JimBee
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Post by JimBee »

Great backyard ingenuity!

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matthew1
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Post by matthew1 »

I love DIY solutions.
Help keep MVS on the web -> click sponsors' links here on MVS when you buy from them.
Also -> Amazon link
. Click that when you go to buy something on Amazon and MVS gets a kickback.

1997 850 T5, MSD ignition coil, Hallman manual boost controller, injectors, R bumper, OMP strut brace [gone]
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