760 steering tie rods or rack?

[DeRail]

Before I go replacing the rack I'll see if I can't get some fresh fluid in there. Any adverse effects from replacing the fluid in the PS pump if it's dirty?

Also, small update on the steering issue. Was driving yesterday and heard a pop from my left front side. Also heard it again today changing lanes in traffic. I did a visual inspection rocking each tire at the 9 and 3 positions (wheel bearings felt solid btw) but my untrained eye couldn't see any play. (When I did this inspection, only one wheel was off the ground, the other was under load [I didn't think of this at the time]). I recall when my tie-rod ends on another vehicle went out, there was a shimmy on turns but not really in this case. I seem to be getting a wandering left or right at highway speeds (65+m/h). I'm almost wondering if it's a balljoint issue at this point.

I scheduled in an appointment to get the steering looked at in case I can't figure it out this weekend, the closest he had was mid next week, but I'm not sure if the car is safe to drive, plus if it's something simple to do like tie-rod ends, I'd rather just do it myself and then go to a tire shop for an alignment.

Thanks

[billofdurham]

My friendly Volvo man has often said that he didn't know why Volvo didn't include a power steering drain and refill in the service schedule, possibly at 100,000 miles. At that time the fluid has done a lot of work and must be losing some of its potency. As he didn't own the garage it made him no extra money. I now have that on my list of things to do.

To check the ball joints jack up one side of the car so the tyre is 1/2 to 1 inch off the ground. Put a longish pry bar between the tyre and the ground and lever it up and down. Any play will be visible. Repeat for the other side.

Bill.

[DeRail]

Changed my oil today and got a chance to crawl under, take a look at the rack and take a look at the troublesome wheel. Jacked it up and put a pry bar and looked for any play in the balljoint, saw nothing. I also replaced the fluid in the reservoir and the stuff looked like crankcase oil!

When I did do the tie-rod test, it was as if the rack wasn't locked as the steering wheel was moving about and the tires would move back and forth, however I tested and both sides did this so I figured it was normal (excuse my inexperience with steering issues if this is an obvious sign, etc.) but just figured I'd say it.

I had a real good look around the steering components, the stuff was looking like garbage because of the salt and such but other than that, everything seemed tight, but there were some cracked rubber boots. I was starting to think it was in my head, but I hear this pop once in a while when driving, it seems to happen intermittently. I try to keep an eye and ear out for when it happens so that I can get a better description but by the time it happens, it's gone.

Update: Coming home tonight, when I locked the wheel left and proceeded in that direction, I got the dreaded shimmy like I did on my other vehicle. Like I mentioned before, there's a delay in steering as well, very hard to describe in depth, just doesn't feel "right" I'm sure you know what I mean we all know our vehicles.


-Darrell

[DeRail]

Threw it up on the floor jack again and did some more investigating, looks like there's some play under the rubber bellows.

No movement up and down where the rod end goes into the spindle.

-Darrell

[DeRail]

Post-Post-Update

I was able to get the rubber bellows down far enough to just check out the inner tie rod ball socket. I was 99% sure that the inner tierod was the issue as I could feel play in it when someone turned the wheel and when the tire was moved at 3 and 9 o'clock. I was able to see into the socket where the rack comes out of the steering box and there seems to be a bit of play in the rack at that point. Now, I'm just wondering if this is normal because do note that the tie rod end had been disconnected at this point, there was no load on that side. The inner tierod also seemed sturdy but again I don't know if it's because it wasn't under load. I haven't used any of the new parts I bought but I have 2 new ends and 2 new inner rods. I have no problem doing the repair, I just want to basically make sure that this isn't the problem right here before I throw parts at it and it turns out I have to throw a new rack on (which I'd probably have to take to the garage for). Well, unless I can replace the rack just up on jack stands (which I think is possible from what they say at the brickboard).

Thanks for the advice!
-Darrell

[billofdurham]

Darrell, I have split this from the other thread as it has moved away from the carrier bearing/transmission mounts.

I was able to see into the socket where the rack comes out of the steering box and there seems to be a bit of play in the rack at that point.

There has to be some movement in there as the suspension will move the whole thing up and down under normal driving. Without seeing the amount of movement I can't really comment on what needs replacing, if anything.

Fitting a rack can be done on axle stands. I did it on a 240.

Bill.

[DeRail]

Bill thank you so much for your help.

My grandfather passed away this morning and it's just comforting that there are people here on the board, where I call my Volvo Home that are willing to help out wherever they can and alleviate my anxiety about doing the repair myself. He owned 3 or 4 Volvo's up until about nine years ago when they bought a Chevy. I'll be uploading some older pictures within the next few days to the "show off your volvo" thread as a tribute. He's the reason I'm so into the Volvo vehicles.

Back to the business at hand... I was able to grab a video on my phone of the play in the steering rack and was hoping you might be able to take a look. The camera is aimed directly at where the steering arm comes out of the box. I also have someone moving the steering wheel from side to side.

http://img18.imageshack.us/i/volvorack.mp4/
Sorry for the poor quality but you can see the play I'm talking about

Thanks for listening,
Darrell

[billofdurham]

Darrell,

I am sorry about your grandfather. Both of mine were inspirations, although not about cars as they didn't have one. We do learn a lot from grandparents and I am now trying to pass on some of my knowledge to my grandchildren.

The knocking that I could hear seemed to be very loud but that could have been the recording. The play didn't seem too excessive but hands on is a better guide. Have you checked for play at the rack with the wheels on the ground? Using your hands try moving the arms near the rack to see if there is play. What I saw in the video could have been the built-in play in the mechanism. As stated in an earlier post you must have some movement at the rack.

Bill.

[DeRail]

Bill, thanks for the words of encouragement!

You're right, it's quite difficult to diagnose degrees of play from over the internet. I'll have to double check tomorrow (it's past midnight here already) but if I remember correctly, I could not get the arms to move in the socket by hand. I will throw the tie rod end on and get the tire back on there and see if the play still exists (at the steering arm) with the tire reinstalled.

If your method is what I think it is, perhaps you're thinking the same thing which is "I wonder if the play will return to the inner tierod when put under a load?" I'll get back results.

Thank you!
-Darrell

[DeRail]

Bill,

put the tie rod end back on, bolted the tire back on, let it down, the same play is visible in the rack mechanism. No play if I manually try to move the steering arms. No visible play in the inner tie-rod either, so I'm not sure if I should take it into the shop at this point, or take the chance on a steering rack?

Update: Well, I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get the thing into the garage. I have exams next week and my family has graciously "rented" me one of their cars for this week, but it will have to be returned to them soon. Will let you know what the diagnose is...

Thanks for your help
DArrell