steering rack or just inner tie rods? 2005 S60 173k miles

[jbeebo]

It's about that time. My 2005 S60 has rolled 173k miles and the suspension is showing it's age. LCA bushings are tearing, outer tie rod boots just staring to rip, drop link boots ripped. I've been watching these boots and bushings for the past 50k miles, knowing this repair is pending.

The outer tie rods and LCA ball joints are still tight, but the steering system has been telling me something is up. Symptoms are slowly worsening wandering on the freeway, and an audible click/clunk which can also be barely felt thru the steering wheel when turning while stopped (i.e. high load on the rack). Tire wear is normal and even.

Today got the car on ramps to investigate. Had the wife saw on the wheel while feeling/listening underneath. Sound is definitely coming from the left side of the rack and I can feel it in the tie rod assy. When I pull the inner side of tie rod down hard, sound diminishes i.e. it seems the inner tie rods and/or the rack is sloppy. Yes there is slight vertical play in the tie rods where they meet the rack.

Dear Lord, please tell me it's not the rack. I've replaced a rack before, and know what's involved. But this Volvo looks to be a whole 'nother kind of beast.

The rack boots are perfect, and the rack doesn't leak a drop. However when I bought this car @ 115k miles I noticed the prior owner used ATF for PS fluid, as he had a leaking pump (shaft seal and suction line) and I'm sure got tired of buying Pentosin. I promptly replaced the pump, flushed the ATF out and filled with the proper green fluid. Without leaks I'm tempted to believe the rack is fine because it was (fingers crossed) continuously bathed in fluid and the rack bushings are probably OK...right?

I have these parts in the shopping cart:
Front control arm kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... s60cakit2l
Inner and outer tie rod kit: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo- ... er-kit-kit

So my fellow masochists, what do you think? Are there other diagnostics I should run to rule the rack in/out?

[jonesg]

If you disconnect the tie rod from the knuckle you can try pushing it in and out, that should tell you.
If it clicks its done.

[oragex]

Exactly, always check before replacing any part. Perfect choices for parts, use some good clamp pliers so as the seal properly the dust boots on the rack. I wouldn't worry about the rack, if the rack looks rusted but but doesn't leak, turn it to lock and use some dish washing wire sponge to gently wipe the rust.

[jbeebo]

Thanks for the replies gents. After sleeping on it last night I took a second look. The rack actually doesn't have vertical play as I initially posted, it seems the play is coming from the inner tie rods. I'm also inclined to believe the rack is fine based on it's condition. This is a SoCal car so there is no rust to content with thankfully.

So I'll start with the most likely culprits and the parts that clearly need attention. Once I tear into the boots and the rack is exposed I'll be able to yank on the inner portion of the inner tie rods (part that is screwed into the rack) and finally confirm condition of the rack.

Something still bothers me though. Had someone crank on the steering wheel again, wheels off the ground. In this unloaded state the sound seemed to come from the rack input shaft. I probed around with my stethoscope and the further I got away from that area the quieter it became. I've not seen the steering column u-joints or input shaft bushings or seals on a rack fail before, but suppose anything is possible. After freshening up the suspension will re-evaluate.

Looking ahead, how does one crimp the inner steering boot clamp? Gonna be tough to get a tool in there...Might need one of these

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lisle-30600-Cv- ... SweW5VNVJI

[jonesg]

I use whatever they supply with the boot, mine came with big zip ties and they held up until I junked the old volvo 8 yrs later.
No drama required.!

[jbeebo]

My fellow masochists, do you concur with my diagnosis of a failed steering rack? Check this video I uploaded, I've never seen a rack with any radial play before let alone this massive amount. Surely this is not normal. Sorry for video quality, first one I've ever uploaded lol.

Am replacing LCA, inner and outer tie rods, sway bar drop links, and brakes. Already knee deep in extracted parts. Hadn't planned on a rack replacement but here we are! So, before I drop a few hundie on a reman please tell me everything is OK and I can button it up without having to wrestle that beast from it's home. Please?



Wishful thinking eh?

[DrDan]

When we replaced the left inner tie rod on my 02 V70 at 100k miles, there was much less play, that's for sure. I wonder if what you are seeing is the result of improper installation of a tie rod by the PO - I mean without using a counterhold (like the one on the attached picture) to protect the innards of the rack from the loosening/installation torque, which is no less than 100 Nm IIRC.

innertierodtools.jpg (1.65 MiB) Viewed 5091 times

[jbeebo]

Have not seen that before, but a quick round on google found this document
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q ... jlNYx3t5NA

As the rack appears to be toast, I guess I won't be needing the inner tie rods and said special tool. Suppose I'm off to the parts store tomorrow for a reman. oi.

[abscate]

We have had two major incidents with Cardone racks locking up here , and at least one partner vendor pulled it from their shelves, so source carefully

[jbeebo]

Uh oh. Not many choices available. Was eyeballing this option:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/mast ... /volvo/s60

Any tips on yanking this rack?
I see an engine mount is attached to the top - Do I need a jack to lift the engine slightly?
This engine mount has a stainless steel wire wrapped around it - is that OEM?

Do need to lower the subframe? I've searched but not found any substantial posts covering this job.