Login Register

940 1993 heater hose.

Help, Advice, Owners' Discussion and DIY Tutorials on all Volvo's "mid era" rear wheel drive Volvos.

1975 - 1993 240
1983 - 1992 740
1982 - 1991 760
1986 - 1991 780
1990 - 1998 940
1990 - 1998 960
1997 - 1998 V90/S90

Post Reply
btdavis43
Posts: 4
Joined: 1 November 2009
Year and Model: 940 1994
Location: Virginia

940 1993 heater hose.

Post by btdavis43 »

I have an 8 valve engine. I need to replace the heater hoses. What is the best way to get to the area where the hoses attach to the block? There is so much in the way, I can't see where it connects. Any advice is appreciated.
Last edited by billofdurham on 13 Nov 2009, 07:28, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: Heading reduced from capitals in line with forum policy.

User avatar
billofdurham
MVS Moderator
Posts: 6507
Joined: 2 February 2006
Year and Model: 855, 1995
Location: Durham, England
Been thanked: 5 times

Post by billofdurham »

Unfortunately the heater hoses are very difficult to reach and, unless uou take off anything in the way, you will have to work through the clutter.

Both heater hoses are attached to pipes on the bulkhead (firewall). The inlet hose comes from a nipple towards the rear of the cylinder head, driver's side in the US. The outlet hose goes to a metal pipe which runs alongside the engine on the passenger side.

When draining the system set the heater control to maximum heat to allow the heater to drain and leave it at that setting when refilling the system.

To avoid confusion with the hoses remove and replace them one at a time from the pipes on the bulkhead.

Bill.
Work was good - retirement is better.

1996 850GLT 2.5 20v Estate Manual.
1995 Peugeot Boxer 2.5Tdi Autosleeper.
Previously:
1984 244DL, Manual, Beige.
1987 744GLE, Manual, Green.
1991 960 3.0 24v, Auto, Silver.
1994 940T Wentworth, Auto, Blue.

writer100
Posts: 207
Joined: 21 August 2009
Year and Model: 940 1994
Location: Los Angeles, California

Post by writer100 »

I recently did the hoses in my car, and -- for me anyway -- it was no picnic. I used a padded board across the engine bay to gain access. (Use rubber foam as it is less likely to slip down the slope of the fenders. Also, parking your car on a slight uphill helps to negate the fender slope.)

Then you need good lighting. The hose connection under the intake manifold in particular needs to be illuminated. A quarter inch drive metric socket set with an extension bar will also be useful. Be sure you don't scratch the hose ports, as this can cause leaks. Clean them before installation with a solvent.

One of the hoses has the heater control valve. When you get one end of this hose free, you can lift it high enough so that you can remove the vacuum line.

As Bill says, do one hose at a time. I used Volvo hoses, as I'm told they are the best, and I didn't feel like doing this again any time soon.

When you get everything back together again, place the heater setting on full heat. If the air that blows out is only tepid, don't worry, you have an air bubble. Just keep the heater on. For me, I just got down the street and the bubble passed out of the core on its own. Then it blew hot air as per design.

Good luck.

Alex
1994 Volvo 940: 189,000 miles.
2008 Mustang GT convertible: 10000 miles. The garage queen.

Post Reply
  • Similar Topics
    Replies
    Views
    Last post