Any special tools needed to replace control arms?

Post by **cowboysvolvofan** » 15 Dec 2009, 11:19

Hi. Anyone know if there are any special tools needed to replace lower control arms? I have looked through a lot of pages on this site to see if anyone posted a "how to" but no luck. Thanks.

turbotim2 · Post by **turbotim2** » 15 Dec 2009, 11:27

No special tools needed. It is a very easy job. You will need some metric sockets and wrenches (18, 17 and 15mm I think) plus a jack, jack stand and lug wrench. A hammer and drift helps knock the ball joint end out of the knuckle.

Be sure to get an alignment afterwards. Good luck!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 15 Dec 2009, 11:32

The only thing that is remotely special is a torque wrench. Be sure to have the control arm at its normal resting position before you torque down the bolts through the bushings. I use a floor jack to raise the center of the hub up to a point where it is centered along the line of the lower door seam.

...Lee

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 15 Dec 2009, 13:49

This is a good "How-To" for you. It should help you get the job done and no, you don't need any special tools.

HOW TO: Replace Worn Control Arms

mdempst_79 · Post by **mdempst_79** » 16 Dec 2009, 08:36

Hi,

The link from FCP is correct, I did this way the first couple jobs, but I always get balljoints that do not want to come out. What I found works out also is the following:

Remove balljoint nut&bolt
Remove control arm to subframe bolts and pull strut/hub away from car so the control arm dislodges from the two mounts (hold from falling).
Then you can rotate the control arm slightly where you can hit downwards on it with a hammer while holding it at the subframe side. Bam, it comes right out of the balljoint. It seems to sometimes get hung up on the balljoint because of the angle it is on while the control arm is bolted to the subframe.

Your choice in which procedure to take, they both get the job done

Wrenchinjoe · Post by **Wrenchinjoe** » 16 Dec 2009, 15:22

The control arms can come in two types: one has 2 bolts through the pivot bushings, and the other has 4 bolts through the sub-frame. The 2-bolt type is quite easy to do and standard tools (metric sockets, hammer, pry bar and torque wrench) are all you need.

The 4-bolt type is more difficult I have read. The bolts through the sub-frame can be difficult to access. I think the passenger side of the engine needs to be raised slightly to remove the bolts. Somebody correct me if I am wrong about this.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 16 Dec 2009, 16:21

I have never dealt with the 4 bolt versions, I think they are almost exclusively on the 4WD models. From what I have read on VADIS Wrenchinjoe is correct, the motor mount needs to be unbolted and the engine jacked up to gain access to the nuts on the inside frame rail for the 4 bolt style.

...Lee

Post by **cowboysvolvofan** » 23 Dec 2009, 01:26

Thanks a lot guys.

If we would stop getting blizzards around here I might be able to update on here the work I've done!

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 23 Dec 2009, 06:55

Ozark Lee wrote:I have never dealt with the 4 bolt versions, I think they are almost exclusively on the 4WD models. From what I have read on VADIS Wrenchinjoe is correct, the motor mount needs to be unbolted and the engine jacked up to gain access to the nuts on the inside frame rail for the 4 bolt style.

...Lee

The C70 has the 4 bolt control arms also. I have never replaced them myself, but I have hear that they are a real pain in the rear.

Post by **cowboysvolvofan** » 26 Jan 2010, 10:02

Ok. I've got an appointment for the control arm and tierods (the boots are torn) for this weekend. The control arm is NAPA with a 1-year warranty.

I assume most of you on here have replaced the control arms on your own, and I think most shops use whatever company they have contracts with, so do you think NAPA is ok? It's got to be better than the Scantech nightmares I've been hearing about.