1996 850 T5 BREAK JOB GONE WRONG!!!

[JDS60R]

Does the disc move outward at all or does it feel like it is bonded to the hub (no movement)?

[850 Turbo1]

Okay so I tried using a flashlight through the small disco whole and couldn't see anything at all!

The discs on both sides seem to be bonded at the same spot with the hub. Neither will come off. One side I pulled so hard I could see part number 16(of the diagram above) easily.

wow!

[JDS60R]

Here is the VADIS sheet with pictures and instructions

[confused_al]

Here is Lee's write-up on e-brake, a bit more in detail. If you never replaced the shoes this maybe the time.
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... sc&start=0

[850 Turbo1]

Ok ladies and gentlemen..or I mean gentlemen..I doubt there were any women responders.. ... With the generous help of John aka JDS60R..we have resolved the problem with rotors seeming to be attached to the hub.

In actual point of fact they were not attached to the hub. They were attached to the Emergency brake shoes. The Ebrake shoes were applying too much pressure on them and as such no matter how many hammer hits I did I still couldn't get the rotors off(both rear sides).

One side...like I said earlier I'm sure I damaged a little ..I hit the old rotor like 20 times at-least.... I kept thinking the rotor was being held to the hub by rust and corrosion...and that so many hits with the hammer would free it...boy was I wrong


JRL knew exactly why they were attached and how to detach them.

At about the 10-11 O'clock position there is a starburst type of bolt hat must be adjusted to decrease the tension of the E-brake on the rotor(gain access by rotating the disc hole to that position..the hole opposite of the one that unscrew in the disc retaining bolt)). With a flat head screw driver you have to keep rotating the starburst ...but literally by wedging the flathead screwdriver between the grooves in the star and making the star rotate downward (to loosen the E-brake...rotating the star upward will tighten the E-brake)..literally when you can rotate the star downward no longer ...you should have the E-brake shoes backed off at the maximum. The rotor should slide right out now,fairly easily, wiggle a little if needed.


Ta-Dah...that wasn't too bad...

Now don't forget to tighten the starburst bolt after you've installed the new rotor...otherwise you will have no E- brake.

If you think of tightening it before installing the new rotor you may end up with a rotor that won't fit....due to the extended E-brake shoes....I tried this...so I'm telling you from my experience.


Very simple job really ...THANK GOD I had a heater and a 2 car garage to work in otherwise...I would have died on the job...A martyr...or gotten frostbite..ahh...or bronchitis..or pneumonia...The last two have happened in the past thanks to the FRIGID(way below freezing) Canada weather in the winter.


I snapped some pictures...I hope they'll help you out when your stumped...sorry about the resolution...that's the best my BlackBerry is capable of.

I'm going to upload all the photos I snapped even though some of the are as hazy as haze its-self..lol..it doesn't hurt to more photos on here anyways.


P.S....You will need alot of light...A strong flashlight and a work light make the job possible...Also make sure your safe use as many jack stands as possible and also block the front wheels...Be cautious for your safety...don't get upset like I did and end up in unsafe situations ..Ie...Car slips of stands because you didn't block front wheels...AH OH!!!

THANKS AGAIN FORUM MEMBERS AND A SPECIAL THANKS TO JOHN !!!

[holler1]

Glad you found the star adjuster OK. While you're in there, I suggest checking the Ebrake cable for free movement. They tend to get rusted and stick if they have never been replaced before. The cable comes thru the backing plate and attaches thru a hinged metal attachment to the Ebrake shoes at a point opposite to the star adjuster. After you get the the rotor on and the shoes themselves adjusted, pull and release the Ebrake handle a few times and make sure the shoes alternately tighten and loosen. When they are tight the wheel should not turn. If they don't, it's probably due to a sticking cable. If the cable needs to be replaced, I'm pretty sure there is a thread on the forum for that. I replaced one cable and then a year or so later had to do the other one.

[wheelsup]

I coated the inside of the rotors w/ anti seize so next time I go to get them off I don't have any issues...not sure if that would've solved your problem or not but it can't hurt.

[renns]

Good to see you got the job done. If you were a bit closer to KW, I'd have offered to stop by and give you a hand. It really is a quick job once the procedure is familiar. Hopefully the ebrake shoes survived the ordeal.

[JDS60R]

VADIS instructions uploaded again as the first upload is no longer working

[850 Turbo1]

Good to see you got the job done. If you were a bit closer to KW, I'd have offered to stop by and give you a hand. It really is a quick job once the procedure is familiar. Hopefully the ebrake shoes survived the ordeal.

WOW renns,

I've been really pleasantly surprised by the great generosity of this forum's members. Seriously this is fantastic, to me atleast, that you friends are so readily available to help out a fellow Volvo owner .

renns, I had another forum member actually walk me through it step by step...honestly it's as if he was right there beside me.

I would eagerly help out any member that's having trouble with anything that I have experience with. If you're near by , I would stop by and give you a hand with out a doubt. When ever someone goes out of their way to help you...you are then obligated to help someone else at-least as much if not more than you were helped.

Your time and efforts are so very much appreciated. THANK YOU ALL!