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Any special tools needed to replace control arms?

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » Any special tools needed to replace control arms?
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Ozark Lee
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Re: Any special tools needed to replace control arms?

Post by Ozark Lee »

do you think NAPA is ok?
NAPA is normally good, certainly better quality than the rest of the chain auto parts stores, but it comes down to "you pays your money and you takes your chances". Anything Scan Tech is pure junk, they will work fine for about 6 months and then you are doing the job all over again. You cannot go wrong with OEM but it will hurt the wallet.

For a while there was an OEM parts vendor that was selling control arms for under $80.00 each (which I think was a pricing mistake) but they got their ticket pulled when Ford shut down many of the dealers. Fortunately I replaced all of mine, on all three cars, at the budget parts price.

Some have been satisfied from URO branded parts but I don't think they have been around long enough to give them an official seal of approval, at least not for me. In about a year I may change my mind based on forum feedback.

...Lee
'94 850 N/A 5 speed
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djm850
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Post by djm850 »

I've had Scantech and Meyle both go bad in less than a year. Went back with Genuine and still holding up.

bobsnow100
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Post by bobsnow100 »

Just changed both left and right control arms and a hub bearing assembly on my 850 last weekend. It was the 2 bolt type. I did have difficultly getting two of the bolts out from the control arm . The bolt rusted itself into the bushing and the rubber spun instead. Must of been that way for awhile. I couldn't get a hammer in there to hit it with any force. Finally got it loose with a lot of cursing, pb blaster and the hammer. I had to cut the rubber part off one side of the bushing and put on vise grips so I could hold the bushing and put a wrench on the bolt . Finally got it to spin inside the bushing so I could hammer it out.
Suggestion when putting the control arm in is to put the ball joint in first then the control arm to the frame second. You'll find one side will be able to line up and the other won't easily. I found that by moving the steering wheel either left or right helped align it better.

cowboysvolvofan
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Post by cowboysvolvofan »

UPDATE

Got the control arm replaced. This fixed my pull to the right when I stepped on the brakes. The alignment seems to have fixed my "rear drifting" problem as well. The mechanic said the bushing was so bad on the control arm that when he got it loosened, it just fell out.
1994 850
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djm850
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Post by djm850 »

Yeah, definitely bushing related which would exhibit that behavior. Mine have always been from ball joint boot tears which just make for rattles. Glad you're back on track.

jbsjbs21
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Post by jbsjbs21 »

So is it safe to say that a 1998 S70 (non-turbo) has the two-bolt type control arms? - I will be attacking that job in the next few weeks myself.

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

So is it safe to say that a 1998 S70 (non-turbo) has the two-bolt type control arms? - I will be attacking that job in the next few weeks myself.
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jbsjbs21
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Post by jbsjbs21 »

Nice! Thanks

Schmitty
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Post by Schmitty »

I just got both my control arms installed, it took me 2 days. I have a few tips for those in snowy climates where they use salt on the roads.
The bolt that keeps the ball joint in place will be so rusted that (in my case) an angle grinder was needed to cut off the control arm and cut the bolt in three spots. I then used a big hole punch and a hammer to punch out the shaft of the bolt that remained. It took me about 3 to 5 minutes of tap-tap-taping on it for it to budge loose and then finally come out. An angle grinder can be used to cut the bolts without cutting any other of the parts (I nicked a few here and there but not bad).
Oh, and also, I was using PBlaster on it for *days* and the parts weren't budging, so out came the angle grinder.
1995 850 Turbo -- 118K miles
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asalim
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Post by asalim »

Make sure you do not tie the bolts and nuts with the car up leave them loose lower your vehicle in a way your tires are all on the ground or some concrete block or a metal ramp so you can slide under your vehicle securely,you need at least 20 to 25 inch as a working space above you, make sure the vehicle is horizontal and start tying outward using a torque ratchet of 48 pounds ....Note :before starting tying the new control arm push your car up and down few time .
Do not forget to realign your car.

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