$2,200 to repair leaking power steering rack....
Re: $2,200 to repair leaking power steering rack....
Hey Guys. I know this may sound kinda crazy, but I had the same problem with my s70. It was at the age that the fix wasn't going to be worth doing for the cost. I figured if I could squeeze a week or so out of it, I could find a deal on a new car. At this point the fluid was pouring out of the rack as soon as I poured it in. I decided I would just keep filling it. I got some of the leak stopping fluid with no faith it would even slow it down. That was about 10,000 miles ago. I just checked the level after about 3 weeks of driving and I was down about 1/4 inch. You may want to try this if you are thinking about just getting some additional miles out of the car. Good luck.
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OEMVolvoParts
- Posts: 266
- Joined: 31 August 2009
- Year and Model: ALL
- Location: CA
Hi All!
I just posted on this topic in a different thread. Pretty much Volvo screwed up the replacement steering rack parts for all the early S80's. You MUST change out the pressure and return lines along with the steering knuckle when changing out the rack. They FUBAR'D it royally. You also need to know if you have what is known as speed related or standard steering gear. Either one will require the complete changeover. Buying these parts from places like car-parts.com (all aftermarket) who deals with all car brands and has very poor customer service is a bad idea. They will ship you anything, and then when it is wrong, it's your burden to return it, and they may not ever get you the correct part. Some parts just are not available on the aftermarket or used, this I believe is one of those parts.
We can provide all the parts you need but it still will be alot of money. There is just no way around it. Volvo forces you to change the whole system. Most people we see here find this is the time to sell the car, because the ROI for this repair does not add up.
I just posted on this topic in a different thread. Pretty much Volvo screwed up the replacement steering rack parts for all the early S80's. You MUST change out the pressure and return lines along with the steering knuckle when changing out the rack. They FUBAR'D it royally. You also need to know if you have what is known as speed related or standard steering gear. Either one will require the complete changeover. Buying these parts from places like car-parts.com (all aftermarket) who deals with all car brands and has very poor customer service is a bad idea. They will ship you anything, and then when it is wrong, it's your burden to return it, and they may not ever get you the correct part. Some parts just are not available on the aftermarket or used, this I believe is one of those parts.
We can provide all the parts you need but it still will be alot of money. There is just no way around it. Volvo forces you to change the whole system. Most people we see here find this is the time to sell the car, because the ROI for this repair does not add up.
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andrei3333
- Posts: 9
- Joined: 21 March 2010
- Year and Model: 1999 S80 T6
- Location: Toronto, Canada
Well just before i had my rack rebuilt i panicked and called the dealer, they told me something outrageous like 2000 dollars for a new rack only, plus two more parts ( sounds like those line the guy before mentioned) plus labour
anyways 8 months later im not regretting a thing, no leaks and steering works, i did have the speed sensitive steering, i think all t6 models have that and the 2.9's dont, but im not sure
If you have this problem then get it rebuilt by a trust able source where in case something is wrong you can come back...
anyways 8 months later im not regretting a thing, no leaks and steering works, i did have the speed sensitive steering, i think all t6 models have that and the 2.9's dont, but im not sure
If you have this problem then get it rebuilt by a trust able source where in case something is wrong you can come back...
1999 Volvo S80 T6 Bought @192KM...now @224KM and counting the high priced maintenance miles 
I'm in the middle of replacing mine now (850). The Rack Doctor (rackdoctor.net) rebuilds them for $150 including new bushings if needed. Need to turn in a good core. The Haynes manual is lacking on this. There were instructions once on another site but they are gone now.
The instructions from Rack Doctor say to clean and flush the system before connecting up, and make sure no hose particles are coming loose. If so, replace hoses too. I am going to put in a filter too. Don't know if the one I got will work on the pressure side- it is metal, from Autozone. Has a magnet. No instructions though. On pressure side is better location I think.
To remove rack you need to lower the rear of the engine cradle first, (to the max of the bolts in rear, which are quite long- three or more turns are enough to hold) to allow the rack to get past the engine mount after removing the engine mount bolt (the rack also supports the back of the engine). May need to raise engine some too but don't force it. I used the trans housing and a block of wood. I put jack stands on the front of the cradle which allows the rear to pivot down but still support the car.
Getting the hyd fittings off is a very slow process- a wrench barely fits in there. Use some liquid wrench overnight to loosen them too. I had to do it while rack was loose and raised from the mount to get more clearance. Once these are loose and off, (and fluid drained) then you can remove the rack from the left side. You first need to remove the u-joint from the splined input shaft. Again a slow process to get the bolt out. Then pound with a shaft from below to drive off the u-joint. Fairly easy. Note how it goes on- the flat spot on the shaft for the bolt. I haven't put it back yet- may be difficult.
Also be careful with the rack mounting bolts- they just press in at the top, and if you push them up and out (by side loading the nut- an air wrench would be great here), there is no way to hold them. I had to carefully tighten one again and get it back in- almost did not work. Would have been a royal pain to get out then. I did not remove the bracket near the engine mount supporting the rack/engine to frame- just the horizontal bolt on the rack. The rack will slide out.
Then once the tubes are loose and the u-joint off, you have to lower the rear of the cradle much lower, supporting with a jack, and raise the engine up to where it feels like it stops. Then you can work the rack out by twisting sideways.
That's where I am now. (I set the new rack in place). Need to clean and flush system, install filter. Install lines, u-joint. Also- had to order new bolts for rack- they were severely stretched from the factory, yet extremely tight. (96 850 145k miles) Suprised they did not fail.
The rack was leaking quite a bit of oil and stop leak did not work. I think I broke something once while trying to loosen the tie rod nut- something popped in the rack.
Maybe somebody has an easier way- glad to hear it if so.
The instructions from Rack Doctor say to clean and flush the system before connecting up, and make sure no hose particles are coming loose. If so, replace hoses too. I am going to put in a filter too. Don't know if the one I got will work on the pressure side- it is metal, from Autozone. Has a magnet. No instructions though. On pressure side is better location I think.
To remove rack you need to lower the rear of the engine cradle first, (to the max of the bolts in rear, which are quite long- three or more turns are enough to hold) to allow the rack to get past the engine mount after removing the engine mount bolt (the rack also supports the back of the engine). May need to raise engine some too but don't force it. I used the trans housing and a block of wood. I put jack stands on the front of the cradle which allows the rear to pivot down but still support the car.
Getting the hyd fittings off is a very slow process- a wrench barely fits in there. Use some liquid wrench overnight to loosen them too. I had to do it while rack was loose and raised from the mount to get more clearance. Once these are loose and off, (and fluid drained) then you can remove the rack from the left side. You first need to remove the u-joint from the splined input shaft. Again a slow process to get the bolt out. Then pound with a shaft from below to drive off the u-joint. Fairly easy. Note how it goes on- the flat spot on the shaft for the bolt. I haven't put it back yet- may be difficult.
Also be careful with the rack mounting bolts- they just press in at the top, and if you push them up and out (by side loading the nut- an air wrench would be great here), there is no way to hold them. I had to carefully tighten one again and get it back in- almost did not work. Would have been a royal pain to get out then. I did not remove the bracket near the engine mount supporting the rack/engine to frame- just the horizontal bolt on the rack. The rack will slide out.
Then once the tubes are loose and the u-joint off, you have to lower the rear of the cradle much lower, supporting with a jack, and raise the engine up to where it feels like it stops. Then you can work the rack out by twisting sideways.
That's where I am now. (I set the new rack in place). Need to clean and flush system, install filter. Install lines, u-joint. Also- had to order new bolts for rack- they were severely stretched from the factory, yet extremely tight. (96 850 145k miles) Suprised they did not fail.
The rack was leaking quite a bit of oil and stop leak did not work. I think I broke something once while trying to loosen the tie rod nut- something popped in the rack.
Maybe somebody has an easier way- glad to hear it if so.
can anyone tell me what the symptoms are requiring replacement of steering rack because of leakage. i don't see any leakage, but i took it in for diagnostic on the whole car, and that is one of the items on the list, and it's between 2K & 3K.
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cuhfs
- MVS Moderator
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- Year and Model: 850,XC70,XC90,S60,80
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If I understand your dilemma correctly... Have a person hold the shaft securely at the drivers floorboard while person #2 is under the car pushing the steering rack up into the coupling.
04 C70 Convert Auto
06 XC90 Auto (ORE) #401/800
06 S80
05 S80
12 S60
04 XC70 Auto (Parts car)
96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
95 850 Sedan Auto Trans (gone)
04 XC70 Auto (gone)
04 C70 Convert (gone)
01 C70 Convert Manual Trans (gone)
06 XC90 Auto (ORE) #401/800
06 S80
05 S80
12 S60
04 XC70 Auto (Parts car)
96 850 Wagon Manual Trans & 98 V70 (gone)
95 850 Sedan Auto Trans (gone)
04 XC70 Auto (gone)
04 C70 Convert (gone)
01 C70 Convert Manual Trans (gone)
Thanks! We finally figured it out! Now my fluid line; the large one want catch into the rack! This is the only issue with me putting it back together! It doesn't look to be stripped inside but the nut first thread doesn't look right! The line will line up great but can't get it to catch; so I can tighten it down.
I am at the point of redoing it; taking all of it out again; to pull the line out and maybe replacing it.
Is there any other ideas of how to get the connections together or to pull the large line out without taking all the stuff loose again????
I am at the point of redoing it; taking all of it out again; to pull the line out and maybe replacing it.
Is there any other ideas of how to get the connections together or to pull the large line out without taking all the stuff loose again????
- This is my large fluid line problem
- This is my large fluid line problem
- This is my large fluid line problem
Any and all Ideas or suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
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difflock54
- Posts: 471
- Joined: 23 September 2012
- Year and Model: V40 Nordic 2002
- Location: Wellington. New Zealand.
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Is it possible to partially loosen off the other end of the hydro line sufficient to get the bottom end thread to align better and to start the thread off?
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