Burst Radiator, Volvo 850 (non-turbo)

pmkipp · Post by **pmkipp** » 07 Apr 2010, 14:29

So, I had the main transmission seal replaced on my non-turbo 850 wagon. After, there were antifreeze puddles under the transmission. So, I brought it back and the mechanic reports he put a pressure tester on it and found a coolant line that had become loose in that area. Then, he left the pressure tester on it and ran the engine to be sure it was okay and the plastic along the right side burst. I like these guys - a little country mechanic that knows Volvos. Could he have done anything wrong that caused this, or was it just its time being close to 200,000 miles on the engine? He helped me get the car home so I can replace the radiator...

Post by **wheelsup** » 07 Apr 2010, 16:47

He might have overpressurized the system but if its the original radiator it was close to going anyway

FCPEURO · Post by **FCPEURO** » 07 Apr 2010, 18:35

+1

It sounds like it was on it's last legs so either way, it was time for a new radiator.

Post by **jblackburn** » 07 Apr 2010, 19:35

The plastic tanks really don't last much longer than 10 years on most of the things. I've replaced one on a Buick, a Chevy, and a Camry that all cracked in the upper tank.

Some people are very happy with their Nissens replacements; some say go OEM only. I honestly say the decision is up to you - do a bit of reading yourself and make up your own mind about it

My friends Camry's still going just fine on the aftermarket one I put in it 5 years ago.

pmkipp · Post by **pmkipp** » 07 Apr 2010, 20:18

Thanks, Guys. Guess I should be glad it happened in a garage and not on the highway. I plan on getting the Nissen and putting it in myself. The mechanic helped me get the car home.

EddieH · Post by **EddieH** » 07 Apr 2010, 20:30

Mine finally gave up the ghost last year. Cracked right below the upper hose fitting. Ended up going with OEM radiator. Would be a good time for you to replace all hoses and do a good cooling system flush .

Eddie

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 07 Apr 2010, 20:36

On a non turbo you can just yank the radiator out from the top after you get it away from the A/C condenser. It is much easier than the turbos.

The lower mount nuts can be problematic. They are pressed in but they tend to break free and then it is Dremel tool time since they are recessed and you can't really get anything on them to hold them captive again.

...Lee

Post by **jblackburn** » 24 May 2010, 13:46

Don't do it!!!

The stop leak things can't fix a crack that big, and it will only get bigger.

If these cars overheat, they blow a head gasket/warp the head quite easily. Better safe than sorry.