1998 Volvo v70 xc - awd fuel pump issue?

[ghoulama]

i just fixed a leaking transfer pump seal using this method. the transfer pump is directly under the hinge on the driver's side. since i had some fuel nearby i dremeled a few corners and used snips to cut 3 sides then i folded it back for access. had to splice the electric connectors and put a new seal on and tighten the plastic retainer. voila!! $1300 saved thanks to GEM and sniper cat and this site.

[morevert]

Falling all the advice tied to this post for my 1998 V70R awd, I tried using spark plug boot pliers with no success & then used bent nose pliers to pry up on the lower edge of the Fuel Line Fitting. The inner retainers & black plastic sleeve ended up bent & slide out of the Fuel Line during removal. Should the Retainer & Black Sleeve be slid back inside the Fuel Line before reassembly or onto the Fuel Pump Spud?

[renns]

Yesterday the V70 started and then immediately stalled, and would not restart. The fuel pump fuse had blown. The second one blew again in about a second. I put in one size larger, in the hopes it would be enough to get the car running to limp it back into the workshop. It did start, and ran for 10 seconds or so, and then failed. So...this repair is about to begin where she sits. I'm leery about cutting with the angle grinder so close to the fuel lines and tank, so I used that excuse to pick up a drill-powered nibbler tool.

If anyone has any further hints or tricks, let me know.

[renns]

About 1hrs work to get the pump out. The nibbler worked great, but the end of the nibbler did stick through far enough to potentially foul on the outboard fuel line, so I cut that last bit with snips. I could smell some fuel in that area, and found the fuel pump cover wet with fuel. The cover plate is rusted a bit, but should still be fuel-tight, so there may be issues with lines, or perhaps the electrical connection pass-thrus. I'll check again after reassembly but before the floor plate is riveted back down.

As a note to others, my fuel gauge was indicating about 1/3 tank, and the fuel level is just even with the bottom edge of the fuel pump hole. If there had been any more fuel in the tank, it would have needed to be drained first.

[renns]

New pump arrived. I ordered a replacement seal as well, but the one that arrived from FCP is not quite the same as the original. The original seal has a larger lip that extends down into the neck of the tank, presumably to keep fuel back from the final sealing surface. I removed the original seal from the old pump, and swapped it over. I didn't close in the access hole yet, but took it for a quick test-drive after install. The engine started and ran like normal, with no fuse issues. However, fuel was leaking from around the large plastic nut that clamps the pump in place. Tightening the nut did not help - there is still leakage from between the plastic nut and the pump flange.

VADIS mentions using vaseline as a lube for the seal on assembly. I didn't have any on hand, but picked some up tonight, and will re-assemble tomorrow, perhaps trying the new seal. I may build a tool as well, to properly torque that plastic nut per the VADIS instructions.

[peetcg]

This does not seem to apply to a 99 v70 wagon[mfg 9\98]- at least i can't orient the photos.
Opinions and directions appreciated
p

[renns]

peetcg,

This applies to the all-wheel-drive versions only. The fwd versions have an access panel built-in to the floor of the storage area behind the rear seats. If you have the fwd version of the car, be very thankful. The design of this system for the AWD cars is not well thought-out IMO. Having the fuel pump mounted through the side of the tank below fuel level is just asking for trouble. To make it even worse, they used Walbro as the oem pump mfg, and failed to provide an access plate to allow for easy pump removal.

[Xilikon]

Here's a picture of the tool I made to remove the fuel line retaining mechanisms.

Photo 9.jpg

I made that tool yesterday but I was totally unable to disconnect the fuel lines even with lots of force or wiggling. I ended up removing the two worm clamps on the tubing above the connectors then disconnected the tubes off.

At first, it's nearly impossible to turn the lock ring because the fuel lines and a third rigid braided line (dunno what it is but it's not the e-brake line) which was wedged between the frame and the fuel line, causing the line to get partially crushed on the lock ring. After clearing the mess, I finally removed the ring and after careful inspection, the seal seems to be in great shape (looks new since the fuel pump was recently replaced) so I decided to risk reusing it. I first placed the seal properly on the fuel tank, making sure the lip is well covered all around and not pinched in any way. I then screwed the lock ring as far as I can, using a screwdriver and hammer to tighten it. I also decided to put new worm clamps on the two fuel lines since the old one was so rusted out.

After doing this, it seems there is no more leak and I think the hard starting I suffered since buying my car is now gone...

[renns]

Xilikon,

I made the same SniperCat tool using an old fork, and found it worked great. The trick for me was to work the fork down under the release ring of the fitting first. Then push down on the fitting, while lifting up on the fork to compress the release ring. Once that was done, the fitting could be pulled loose while holding upward pressure on the fork.

[Xilikon]

I didn't push down the fitting and that might explain why I was unable to remove it. It doesn't matter since I unplugged from the top of the fittings.