Lower Radiator Hose [1997 Volvo GLT Turbo]

Post by **1997volvo850** » 08 May 2010, 17:13

I'm a little embarrassed to ask this question.

I drained my radiator in order to check my thermostat*. I thought changing the coolant hoses was
in order after 230K so I ordered the upper, lower, overflow hoses.

When I look at the lower radiator hose I am able to see where it starts and quickly disappears into
a maze of hoses and wires. I believe I found the other end in front of the PCV valve. With so much
stuff in between I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to replace this with a stiff hose and get
it through all of the stuff in the way.

I suspect there is a trick which is why I am asking the group. The Haynes manual has a short paragraph on
changing the coolant hoses. It basically says undue clamp, wiggle off hose, and replace with new hose
and tighten down. Duh! That works for the upper hose. I need more guidance for the lower hose.

Do I need to remove a bunch of stuff to get a clear path to replace the lower hose? I don't see sufficient
access from above or below. Looked around for instructions but found now, This is probably just too easy...

Thanks

* Oh, my stripped thermostat cover bold started to move after I was nearly done grinding off the head...how
nice. I guess it could have been worse. Just need two new bolts now.

bobice · Post by **bobice** » 08 May 2010, 20:35

I'm also thinking about changing the lower hose. But if there's no visible crack on the hose, is it really necessary even at 200k?

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 08 May 2010, 23:49

Oh, my stripped thermostat cover bold started to move after I was nearly done grinding off the head...how
nice. I guess it could have been worse. Just need two new bolts now.

Get the new style bolts from the stealership. Volvo learned the error of their ways and they went to a coated steel bolt rather than the aluminum bolt that always strips the head out when you try to remove it. They only cost around $1.00 each.

The lower hose really isn't that bad to change, just follow the guides that are common to the wiring harness/hose standoffs and it will snake back in.

...Lee

whoa · Post by **whoa** » 09 May 2010, 00:01

Yeah, you'll be glad you pulled the airbox, at least. I think I put mine in from half-way---folded it and put both ends in from somewhere near the intake manifold. Awkward, but you'll get it.

Is it necessary to replace the hose? Maybe not! It might last forever and never burst many hours from home, taking your engine down with it.

Be sure to use anti-seize compound on the new bolts.

Post by **1997volvo850** » 09 May 2010, 07:59

I guess the question of when do I need to replace the coolant hoses might deserve
its own thread.

I've read a few posts of members who experienced a burst coolant hoses and some ended up
with major damage, like the daughter who kept driving her dad's Volvo after the coolant was gone.

The previous post said the hose might last forever or it might burst at the worst possible time. This
is quite range.

Is there any guidance on hoses similar to the guidance to replace timing belts and serpentine belts
every X miles or Y year?

I don't believe my hoses have ever been changed. They do not look that bad but I'm trying to weigh
the $20 cost of new hoses versus $4000 for a new engine.

I welcome your advice on coolant hose life expectancy and hose change recommendation.

Post by **jblackburn** » 09 May 2010, 09:33

I suppose it's a combination of age & mileage.

My '85 Saab lost one back in 2003 at about 260K. To my knowledge, dad had never replaced any of them.

My '88 Honda lost THREE in 2005 at 206K.

I replaced both radiator hoses on my Volvo pre-emptively, because these engines are so prone to destroying themselves when they overheat.

You can see the lower one heading towards the back of the engine from the top - look directly under the air intake pipe to the turbo. Now getting it IN there...that's the fun part.

Other · Post by **Other** » 22 Aug 2010, 16:58

I just did the lower radiator hose in about 20 minutes.

1. Pulled airbox
2. Disconnected hose on top
3. Disconnected hose at bottom and drained coolant
4. Pulled hose out from bottom
5. Fed hose down from top to bottom
6. Connected hose at bottom.
7. Connected hose at top
8. Slowly filled with 50/50 while engine was running and heater at full blast
9. Done

I used a flat head screwdriver for the hose clamps and the Volvo torx tool to disconnect the airbox from the MAF sensor tube.

The hose was $22 normally stocked item at my local Advance Auto Parts store.
FCP Groton has them for $16 but I needed to roll today.

I have 185K on my brick and I have replaced the following coolant hoses in the last 1K miles:

1. Upper heater hose
2. Turbo coolant intake hose
3. Lower radiator hose

They were all original and seem to be going all at once.

Post by **confused_al** » 22 Aug 2010, 19:09

1997volvo850 wrote:I don't believe my hoses have ever been changed. They do not look that bad but I'm trying to weigh
the $20 cost of new hoses versus $4000 for a new engine.

I agree with your view. When I replaced my hoses 2 years ago, about 158k and 14 years old then, all the hoses were in relatively ok condition (may last another year or so). However, under extreme conditions these old rubber hoses are not going to hold the pressure as much as newer ones.
As the poster above mentioned, the job is really not that difficult at all.
Oh, just one thing, not all rubber hoses are made in the same way:
http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.ph ... msearch__1

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Aug 2010, 19:15

3. Disconnected hose at bottom and drained coolant

Good plan - never, ever, try to use the drain cock to drain the radiator. Nine times out of ten it will break and then you are looking at a new radiator.

I find that feeding in the lower hose is best done from under the car, particularly on a turbo.

BTW, welcome to MVS, we look forward to your contributions.

...Lee

volvomileage · Post by **volvomileage** » 23 Aug 2010, 15:44

+1 on not using that petcock

but with all the respects i owe you Lee and i do have a lot for you ,you have helped me a lot here and you save an other volvo from the boneyard when i broke that infamous petcock i found a generic one in an autoparts store that was almost perfect fit i slighty epoxied (plastic high heat epoxy) the outer part to seal it and all is fine

if the rad is an oem one fcp sell sthat petcock if aftermarket or rebuilt if you are lucky you can find a replacement

i just hate when we have to spend on a new part when the actual part works well and is easily salvageable

btw check you pressure cap on the expansion tank we tend to forget about that one

cheers !