Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

starrat46 · Post by **starrat46** » 30 May 2010, 13:35

thanks vm OL for a very good write up, did the job today along with a new ignition switch that was wonky(had to turn it back a little to get lights, speedo, indicators to work) also fixe the tailgate latch which was cracked across the mounting plate, the rattling was doing my head in,now,silence, its like a new car, anyway i digress. i took my module out, someone had already been in at it. the lid came off really easy and it had been sealed badly with clear rtv, the power pins had hardly any solder on them, it looked like someone had tried to resolder without new solder and removed most of the origional solder. fired up my soldering iron,no use, the dam thing wasnt heating up, found a gas iron i hadnt used for ages and away we go. sealed it up again wrapped the seal with waterproof tape, fitted it back in, plugs on. didnt hold up much hope at this point because of the state of the power pins. ignition on..abs pump powers up, test finishes, light go out, wahey. thanks guys. im new to the forum. great site keep up the good work. and to anyone who is considering doing this job,go for it. its easy,,,even for an idiot like me. and if your not confident abot soldering, take the lid off, then take it 2 a local electrical repair shop. show him the pins you want resoldered, they'll prob do it for nothing.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 02 Jun 2010, 14:49

I recently started having the ABS failure symptoms and want to do this DIY repair. I have done some limited soldering and own a 15W soldering iron. It does seem to take a long time to heat up solder joints. I see that Harbor Freight has a 30W iron for $6.99. Will this perform much better than my 15W iron? If a higher watt iron will make a significant difference, what wattage is recommended and what is a good source?

Ritchard · Post by **Ritchard** » 02 Jun 2010, 16:27

Hello ABS experts,

I had an ABS light for a long time on my 98 V70 T5 that I finally realized, according to all the community knowledge was simply the module. I felt I didn't have the time to pull and repair the module, so ordered a rebuilt unit from FCP. I had it installed at the corner garage - good guys that always deal with the car. Afterward the ABS light went off for about 10 minutes, then returned. I didn't know what it was, but suspected a bad rebuilt module, and on the advice of the corner garage, took it to a dealer for diagnosis. My corner garage felt that the more sophisticated diagnostic computer may be helpful.

So I did. The invoice from the dealer, other than "$128.82", says "ABS-314 Faulty ABS control module"

With this diagnosis in hand, I had the parts guys send me another module. This second module was installed today, and the same thing has happened - the light went off for just a few moments, then returned.

I called the dealer, and asked if there was any sort of a reset procedure that they could do, that maybe the guys on the corner didn't know about. The service writer suggested it might be possible, but I would have to pay for another scan.

My questions:

Is there any kind of reset procedure, and if so, can I do it? can the corner guys do it? Does it require the mighty brainpower of a computer from Gothenburg? If the dealer guys can do it, why would they have told me I needed yet another module, their brand new one at a cost of $900 plus labour, rather than trying the reset procedure (I am sure I can guess that answer)

Anyhow, wise Volvo friends, what's the solution here?

Thanks in advance, Ritchard

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 02 Jun 2010, 17:27

The reset occurs when you drive the vehicle When you reach about 20MPH the system performs a self diagnostic and will shut the lights off if the errors are cleared. The dealer does no "secret" procedure.

When you say the light came back after 10 minutes ---- I assume you mean that you were driving for 10 minutes and not just running in park?

Some suggestions in no particular order are:
1. Insure that the module connector is correctly seated. This can be tricky the first time.

2. Check ABS fuses.

3. Insure that your wheel speed sensors are clean and there is continuity back to the connector

4. Check your battery cables and charging system.

5. Make sure you have the right part for your car. There is two models of the module - one that includes TRACS and the other doesn't.

Ritchard · Post by **Ritchard** » 02 Jun 2010, 17:35

Hi Calvin,

I am pretty sure that I ordered the correct part - twice. I'll try your other suggestions to see what I can come up with.

This is driving me kind of crazy.

obayha · Post by **obayha** » 03 Jun 2010, 09:11

The really sad part about all this tech advice is.... I no longer have all the pretty dash lites lit up. All the orange is gone. Did the PCV about two weeks ago, Found a motor and replaced the secondary air pump, now just took off the ABS mod, found all the bad sodder, fixed them. Put it all back together and now no lites come on. I know it's a great thing, and would not of been able to do it without all this help. It's so weird to drive and not see the orange glow. ( I am knocking on wood at this moment).
Just want to thank everyone for all the imput. Oh, by the way... The headliner came out last week. I did have a shop man install the new cover. Material and to stick it was only $65.00. I will pick it up today and install soon. I am thanking a lot of threads in this one, but if your like me, you read all of them.
Thanks again
Shane
1998 V70 T5 rolling at 221,000

Post by **Matty Moo** » 03 Jun 2010, 20:23

C@lvin wrote:The reset occurs when you drive the vehicle When you reach about 20MPH the system performs a self diagnostic and will shut the lights off if the errors are cleared.

Some suggestions in no particular order are:
1. Insure that the module connector is correctly seated. This can be tricky the first time.

2. Check ABS fuses.

3. Insure that your wheel speed sensors are clean and there is continuity back to the connector

4. Check your battery cables and charging system.

5. Make sure you have the right part for your car. There is two models of the module - one that includes TRACS and the other doesn't.

#1 is the most important. For every 4 modules I send out, I'll get one person that says their lights are still on. It's the harness almost every time. Not only make sure it's seated correctly, but make sure you get all the dead spiders and dust out too.

Paulb · Post by **Paulb** » 03 Jun 2010, 23:58

Thank you for a great DIY plan for the ABS controller unit.

I own a 1997 850R
I have had the ABS/traction ctrl light on for a while now. Its expensive to replace so I might attempt your plan soon.
What I am battling to diagnose however, is a teeth rattling, car shaking shudder that seems to be coming from the rear calipers.
I have replaced the discs and pads, but no go. I have also chamfered the pads, but this has not helped either.

The shudder is so bad that I use the handbrake to help slow me down. Applying the handbrake seems to alleviate the problem.
This is stressful to say the least.

Can anyone pin point the problem here? Will it simply go away if I replace/fix the ABS controller unit?

Thanks
Paul

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 04 Jun 2010, 06:39

Just an idea. Check to make sure your handbrake is properly adjusted and is not permanantly engaged. I've never done it in one of my Volvos, but a few times in my 94 Toyota Previa I have accidentally driven with the handbrake engaged and after a few hundred yards it heats up and starts shuddering like you describe. When your ABS activates I would describe the sensation more like a feeling of metal scraping that you feel through the brake pedal.

I have never experienced the ABS failure as a shudder that you describe. However, with a minimal investement in time and being virtually free (if you already have the proper tools), you can fix the ABS and eliminate that as a possible cause of your shuddering symptom.

Peter White · Post by **Peter White** » 06 Jun 2010, 04:46

HI guys,

I,ve just joined the forum, and would like to extend my thanks to Lee, and the many other contributors who made my ABS module repair possible. I had an MOT test scheduled, and took the opportunity os checking via the OBD socket for fault codes. The Smartbox came up with ABS 433-pumpmotor intermitt. and ABS-222 No dics set. I opened the module, using a scalpel type blade to cut the rubber/silicon seal and prized the circlips of using a craft knife blade to start, and then as very thin flat bladed screwdriver. To open the module, I used the edge of a bricklayers pointing trowel (sad I know, but it fitted the gap perfectly) to gradually lever the cover open.

On inspection with a watchmakers eyeglass, the only bad joints were the two to the motor connector. I trimmed the old solder off with a scalpel and scraped the pins to clean them. For the soldering i used a 60 watt Weller temperiture controlled iron with a 1mm chisel bit, and applied the heat to the pin only. Once the pin was hot enough to melt the solder, I applied a small ammount of solder to bridge the pin to board joint. I tested the unit on the car before removing and finally sealing the unit.
Refitted unit and ABS warning light extinguished in a few seconds and ABS works a treat.

Thanks for all your help.

Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

Re: Do it yourself ABS module repair.