Oops I did it again - and I need ideas.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 11 Jun 2010, 19:24

I picked a '98 S70 T5 this evening for my daughter to replace her Porsche 944. It was well bought but it has issues.

The A/C had a minor low charge and a can of R-134a fixed that right up - it was still holding 70 PSI static so.....the Evap may wait for a while.

The big issue of the day is the passenger's side rear window - it won't close. I tried contact cleaner on the switches which usually works in the 850s but no go. I got to the point where I hooked a battery charger up to the Red/White and Green wires off of the rear window switch and still nothing in either polarity. Schematically those wires go directly to the motor - does anyone have any other tricks?

...Lee

Brazuca_ny · Post by **Brazuca_ny** » 11 Jun 2010, 20:22

meter it out it might be shorted, is the fuze intact, check for continuity on the wires they might be open, just some ideas.

volvomileage · Post by **volvomileage** » 11 Jun 2010, 20:31

maybe open up and double check the windows motor,or maybe somethin is blockin in there as far as the motors they go cheap

cheers !

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 12 Jun 2010, 15:48

Ozark Lee wrote:I picked a '98 S70 T5 this evening for my daughter to replace her Porsche 944. It was well bought but it has issues.

The A/C had a minor low charge and a can of R-134a fixed that right up - it was still holding 70 PSI static so.....the Evap may wait for a while.

The big issue of the day is the passenger's side rear window - it won't close. I tried contact cleaner on the switches which usually works in the 850s but no go. I got to the point where I hooked a battery charger up to the Red/White and Green wires off of the rear window switch and still nothing in either polarity. Schematically those wires go directly to the motor - does anyone have any other tricks?

...Lee

Sounds like you've got the right wire colors.
I can think of two things that may help...

Good power from the charger? I usually use battery power.
You may want to check with a meter while you try the motor.

And - Was the switch unplugged? Just makin' sure...
That'll mess things ALL up!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 12 Jun 2010, 16:34

And - Was the switch unplugged? Just makin' sure...

Yea, I unplugged it before playing polarity games on the motor. We used trash sacks and tape to seal the window and it rained all day today so I have not been able to go any further. Hopefully I get some decent weather tomorrow so that I can work on that issue and replace the alternator in the Platinum.

...Lee

Retired MVS Contributor · Post by **Retired MVS Contributor** » 12 Jun 2010, 17:07

They are motor driven and have limit switches at each end...Could be the limit switch, or the moter itself...The panel has to come off...

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 12 Jun 2010, 18:11

jerrymcc wrote:They are motor driven and have limit switches at each end...Could be the limit switch, or the moter itself...The panel has to come off...

There are no limit switches in these Volvo window systems.
Just the master and local window switches and a motor.

Starting to sound like OL rang the bell and won a bad motor...

All I've got left is confirming that you've got good power for your
guerilla rollup test. Thank Goodness for plastic trash bags!

Retired MVS Contributor · Post by **Retired MVS Contributor** » 13 Jun 2010, 06:52

There HAVE to be limits...Perhaps they are built right into the motor, but they have to be there...If there were no limits and one did not release the button when the window reached fulll open or full closed, power would continue to be consumed and one of several things would happen, the fuse would blow, the gears would strip, the linkage would bend, or the motor would burn out...

The limits might also be software based, but be assured, they are there...

Post by **phat78ta** » 13 Jun 2010, 07:30

Being a 12 year veteran of the auto glass industry, I can tell you the limts are purely mechanical. The motor will stop moving when it reaches the top(window up) or the bottom (window down). Most window motors do not have a limit switch, they simply will continue to turn given no resistance. The will continue to draw power as long as the switch is pressed, until the point of thermal overload. That is the only "limit switch" they have.

Lee, Try connecting the jumper wires directly to the motor(where the connector plugs into the motor body itself). I use a drill battery when I am diagnosing a bad motor for customers, it's just more portable. Any voltage will do, I have run motors on 9.7 volts before.

If you have a higher voltage batt(like an 18 volt or better) that would be great. Sometimes a motor will get a dead spot or a slight bind, and a shot of higher voltage will free it up.

creepingdeath94 · Post by **creepingdeath94** » 13 Jun 2010, 09:37

Yea, I was just going to say, I have this same problem on my '99 S70. RR window goes down but not up. Replaced the switch on the RR door and still nothing. If I run power from a battery directly to the motor though in either direction, it goes up and down fine. I am going to replace the master switch next as that is all I can think of that could be the problem anymore. It works fine until you reconnect it to the circuit. If it is not the motor, I am guessing master switch. I have seen these tend to be problematic for many others in my research.