Do it yourself ABS module repair. Topic is solved

[zdh]

Hello MVS,

After finally managing to secure an E5 socket, I'm ready to remove my module from my '99 S70. I've known my module was faulty since buying the car last september but, is it ever a pain to find that socket However, I don't fully trust my soldering ability on a job like this, and so I'm planning to have it repaired by one of the companies/individuals offering the service. My question is, where off would I be best sending it for repair if im located in Ontario, Canada?

Thank you.

Also: A huge thanks to Matthew and all the other users here. This Volvo was my first car and I wouldn't call myself mechanically inclined at all. However, I've now taken to reading this site daily and have learned a lot about how Volvo's work and things to look out for. Being a higher mileage car (200k kms) I know I'll have to get my hands dirty sooner or later, and this site, with its user tutorials and and knowledge, makes me a lot more confident going forward. Planning to do a Stage 0 and inspection of the PCV system later this summer when I have more free time.

[Ozark Lee]

Welcome to MVS zdh,

Victor Rocha has been fixing the modules for years and he has a great reputation. Module Masters has a good reputation as well and I think they are a tad cheaper. There are some guys on eBay that have read my post and have done a few for cheap but I cannot attest to their quality.

...Lee

[Geevs]

zdh,

Search "Volvo 850 ABS" in ebay.ca (not .com). There's a guy in Concord will fix it for $65. Contact him - he's a nice fellow.

[zdh]

zdh,

Search "Volvo 850 ABS" in ebay.ca (not .com). There's a guy in Concord will fix it for $65. Contact him - he's a nice fellow.

Hello,

Instead of finding an individual rebuilder I found a rebuild company called BBA Reman located in Concord; I assume this is who you meant? I had heard their name mentioned before and after looking into them, it looks like they're my best bet. Located in province, and much cheaper than any other abs repair service I've seen offered.

Thanks for the lead.

[beoutside]

thanks for the info found a loose pin in the area you circled but went ahead an soldered them all, idiot lights are gone for the moment and ABS seems fine, also speedometer now working,

Tip for taking the module apart... use a hacksaw to carefully cut into seam until you hit the metal bolt sleeves, then use 2 inch wide burley paint scraper to pop lock washers from module top, then start at a sleeve and carefully pop/pry until you see movement on the top of the module from sleeve repeat at all other sleeves then slowly pry on each side exactly next to sleeves (this is were the locating and holding plastic clips are inside the module.
DO NOT PUSH SCRAPER PAST THICKNESS OF CASE OR YOU MAY DAMAGE PINS INSIDE.
Put back together with a little silicone looks like new , even better works like new so far, will repost after road trip
THANKS AGAIN!
PS it was hard to see circle you used in pic but once I located the area was the same on my Ate 9472100 module v70 x/c awd turbo 1999

[erictwa]

2000 S80 2.9 several bad joints fixed however lights still on could there be other damage or dealer reset needed

[beoutside]

reset first, schucks can do no charge good luck

[850Rarg]

I´ll be trying this repair on mine.
In my case, there is also some issue with the power cable, The silicone insulated cable that goes from the module to underneath that black cup like plastic cover is damaged and I would like to put a new one.
Any suggestion on how to change it ?

[C@lvin]

I pulled my unit a couple of weeks ago and hacked my way into the case. It wasn't pretty - if I ever do this again I will use the dremel tool.

My soldering skills (and my vision) are greatly lacking. I couldn't even get the first pin successfuly resoldered so i took the unit to a local electronics shop (actually their specialty is car stereo installation and Cigars ) and they resoldered all the receommnded pins and charged their minimum bench fee of $15.

Thanks to Lee and all the other informative posters that gave me the confidence to do this. As MIJ would say...."another satisfied customer"!

[Retired MVS Contributor]

Lee, I just want to let you know that your write-up on this gave me the confidence to give this a shot. I have been dragging me feet about this problem trying to decide what to do. I cracked open the case last night with my dremel and fired up the soldering iron. I could clearly see several broken solder joints. I went ahead and flowed all of them that were broken, along with all of the others you had circled. My ABS light is now off, but each time I get above 20 mph, my brake light illuminates. It didn't do this before the ABS repair, so I'm guessing I may have missed a few joints. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did you get it to stop? Getting back into the unit will be much easier this time around, since I used black silicone to button it up. Any clue as to which pins it could be? I couldn't see any more that were broken.

lewismug:
When you go back in there, check all your soldering with a magnifier...There should be a smooth, clean, shiny filet of solder running from the shaft of the pin down onto the copper foil on the PCB...If any joint looks like it is standing alone on the post, up off the board, that one needs to be re-heated...Look for solder bridges across copper foils that do not belong there...It is best to remove all the old solder and redo the joint with new solder, but that involves expensive solder-sucking equipment...Radio shack sells "solder wick", which is a flux-treated wire braid used to remove solder...They also have solder poppers, about $15, that suck the solder up like a giant hypodermic when you hit the trigger...
This problem with cracking solder joints is a manifestatiion of the European "RoHS" protocol requiring the use of lead-free solder...Lead-free solder is hard and brittle and requires a lot more heat to get a good joint...It is brittle and eventually fatigues and cracks...
Jerry---Formerly certified solderer for Navy, NASA, and Air Force...