I think I got taken

[jamesspringer]

My wife wrecked her car and we needed a replacement quickly. I am self employed and business hasn't been good lately so her income has been pretty much our only income. She has to be able to get to work. I spent a couple days going over the classifieds; sold some stuff and borrowed money to get her a cheap car. I found an add for a 93 Volvo 850 GLT. I went and saw it (fairly nice interior/exterior). I drove it and other than idling a bit rough at first, it drove fine; had decent pickup and no funny noises. I checked the oil (full; a bit dark but not black) and transmission fluid (actually over full and pink on the stick). No oil leaks around the valve cover I could see. I ended up buying the car.

Now the bad news: The add was apparently fraudulent. Add claimed everything in working order and 200k miles (also claimed turbo charged but that wasn't even an option in 93)

1) The odometer is not working. I don't know how I missed it before but it reads 218.5k and didn't budge all the way home.
I found how to read the ECU on this site (thanks, very helpful) and the true milage is 228,376.

2) Transmission (auto) has an error code 124: Faulty Mode Selector or shorted to ground. I removed the switch and cleaned it up to verify the buttons weren't stuck; shook it to hear if anything was rattling loose inside and now I have to borrow an ohm meter to check if the switch is bad. I'll update when I do that.

3) ABS has five error codes: 444 - No power to hydraulic unit valves
312 - Right front wheel sensor open or shorted
313 - Left rear wheel sensor open or shorted
213 - No left rear wheel signal on moving off
214 - No right rear wheel signal on moving off

Thankfully, no engine error codes. I followed the directions for reading the codes and all went as it should but it won't let me clear the codes. I pressed the button for 7 seconds. The LED went off. When it came back on, I immediately pressed it and held for another 7 seconds. The LED went off and then blinked 4 times. When I pressed it to read the codes, they were still there. What did I do wrong? How do I clear these codes?

While the car ran OK during the test drive, that wasn't the case when I came back 8 or 9 hours later with a tag to drive it home. The engine missed and spluttered all the way home. It had NO pickup or power at all and bogged down to 40 mph going up even a modest incline. It stalled at a stoplight and it took a long time to get it started again. It GOBBLED gas at a fantastic rate using almost a quarter tank to go 45 or 50 miles. The transmission wouldn't shift until the engine was revving at 3500 rpms or more. Needless to say, I was more than a little upset by the time I got home an hour and a half later. I felt lucky to even make it home.

What can I do? What are the chances a simple tune-up will fix the engine issues (plugs, wires, rotor cap)? Will the transmission being overfilled damage it? Could the gas guzzling be due to the faulty mode selector switch?

I feel like a fool. I spent virtually every penny we had on a pile of crap with faulty brakes that doesn't run right. I am consulting a lawyer about my options but haven't heard back from him yet. I may not HAVE any options: "Buyer Beware" and all that.

[jamesspringer]

Oh, and one other thing, When I turned on the blower, the car nearly died. I had to switch it off quickly to avoid stalling. Even when the blower is off and the air conditioner switch is off, cold air comes from the vents when the car is moving. It is almost like I can't really turn the air conditioner off. Is this a common problem?

[asc325is]

I hate to say it, but "Buyer Beware".

I don't know much about 93's, but the ABS on later years always fails, all the way up to 2000. The fix for us is easy, replace the module with a rebuilt. Did your speedo work? If not, there is a problem with the unit. (which is what it sounds like anyway)

The odometer wheel breaks often on the 850, easy fix, search for it on the repair section here.

Sounds like the transmission is shot.

As for the ac issue, can you hear the fan when the ac is off?

It sounds like you have a bunch of little electrical gremlins in the system, those are not fun to find.

did cleaning the switch fix your transmission code?

A tune up will NOT fix the power issues you are having, there is something else wrong. It may help, but to cause what you are experiencing the plugs would be causing misfires and there would be codes on it.

[jamesspringer]

Hi asc325is.

Yes, the speedometer works.

I don't know if cleaning the switch helped, I can't clear the codes.

No, I can't hear the fan when the ac is off.

What could be causing the power issues? The engine certainly sounds like it is missing; odd there are no codes. What about the vacuum lines; could leaks in those cause the power issues?

[jamesspringer]

Another thing I thought of; Could part of the problem be dirty fuel injectors or bad gas/water in gas? Since this car is not a turbo, is it still important to use high octane gas?

[Ozark Lee]

The N/A cars will run on anything for fuel. They like premium and have a bit more pep but there will be no damage to the car if you run regular.

Describe your climate unit a bit more (most of the '93's seem to have the electronic climate unit) but, so that we can point you in the right direction, does the climate unit have the temperature graduated in numerical degrees or with graduated width red bars? Does it have any settings that say auto?

What lights turn on in the instrument cluster when you put the key to position II?

Your problem with clearing the codes may be a problem with cadence and you are hitting the button again too soon after the LED comes on. It takes some practice to get the timing right.

When was your last verified timing belt change. The '93 models had a narrower belt that absolutely MUST be changed every 50,000 miles.

If you have any patience, have any time, and are mechanically inclined - and you sound like you are - I think we can help you through this.

...Lee

[charlyW]

All is not lost, I had a 93 GLT 850 and can offer some help on some of the issues provided the UK and USA Spec are similar.

93 850 GLT's read their speedo from a speedo sensor bolted into the back of the autobox just above the rear mount bit a nightmare to get to but once you've undone the 10mm bolt it will simply twist out.
High Octane petrol is unecessary if it's not a turbo standard will do, UK premium is 95 I found mine ran nicely on it I led to believe that the USA has low octane in the 80's that may be a bit low for the knock sensors but as I've never used it can't swear to it try it and find out.
To clear the codes you should find two boxes next to the screen filler [might be on the opposite side] marked A and B check the repair database on how to read/clear these off. I see you've read the codes off you have to read all the codes before you can clear them. I spent two hours on my first attempt to do this until I realised I hadn't read all the codes off once this had happened it was a case of pressing the button to turn the code light on holding the button for 5-7 seconds then releasing and repeating.

The cutting out might be as simple as a duff battery I'm amazed at how fast the 850 will eat a battery so get the power of the battery checked and not just the voltage also clean the MAFF sensor with some good cleaning agent.

As for the cold air on the dash panel close to the two central air vents there may be another wheel marked "Air Mix" slide this wheel upwards to close the external venting and make sure the light on the AC is on, seems odd to have the light on to have the AC off but hey thats the swedish mentality.

The none reving part may be down the a dead speedo sensor, I bought a brand new Volvo one for my 93 that was dead and made the autobox go mad.

Here in the UK there is an active recall on the fuel tank pipes so it might be worth checking the feed/return hoses on the tank to see if they're leaking as using that much fuel in such a short time is excessive

Chances are you need a new selector unit on the gearbox or the dreaded PNP Switch.

too much gearbox oil in an autobox can be worse than not enough with electronic controlled boxes as the pressure build up will cause all manner of issues

To start with I would pull the AC fuse which will turn that part off, read all the codes off more than once on each of the A-B boxes till you come back to the first one attempt to reset the codes.

Clean all of the ignition system down check the condition of everything see what your lawyer says then post again and we can all try to offer you help . Ozark Lee is a man who knows more than I do on the American Spec 850's and is a wealth of
knowledge.

Sorry for the long post but each part needed it's own section

[jamesspringer]

All is not lost, I had a 93 GLT 850 and can offer some help on some of the issues provided the UK and USA Spec are similar.

93 850 GLT's read their speedo from a speedo sensor bolted into the back of the autobox just above the rear mount bit a nightmare to get to but once you've undone the 10mm bolt it will simply twist out.

Please forgive my ignorance but I am unfamiliar with British termonology/slang. By "autobox", do you mean the transmission?

High Octane petrol is unecessary if it's not a turbo standard will do, UK premium is 95 I found mine ran nicely on it I led to believe that the USA has low octane in the 80's that may be a bit low for the knock sensors but as I've never used it can't swear to it try it and find out.

US premium or "high test" is anywhere from 93 to 95 octane (have rarely seen 91 octane). Regular or "low test" is 87 octane.

To clear the codes you should find two boxes next to the screen filler [might be on the opposite side] marked A and B check the repair database on how to read/clear these off. I see you've read the codes off you have to read all the codes before you can clear them. I spent two hours on my first attempt to do this until I realised I hadn't read all the codes off once this had happened it was a case of pressing the button to turn the code light on holding the button for 5-7 seconds then releasing and repeating.

I did cycle through the codes until it went back to the first one. When I press the button for 5-7 seconds, do I wait for the LED to come on and then go off before repeating or do I push the botton again when it comes back on WHILE it is still on? Is it supposed to blink four times afterword. I hold it for 5-7 seconds. The LED goes off for a short pause; comes on for a second or two; goes back off for a short pause and then blinks four times.

The cutting out might be as simple as a duff battery I'm amazed at how fast the 850 will eat a battery so get the power of the battery checked and not just the voltage also clean the MAFF sensor with some good cleaning agent.

What is the MAFF sensor?

As for the cold air on the dash panel close to the two central air vents there may be another wheel marked "Air Mix" slide this wheel upwards to close the external venting and make sure the light on the AC is on, seems odd to have the light on to have the AC off but hey thats the swedish mentality.

The ac light should be on for the ac to be off?? That is strange. I am sure that is the problem right there.l I made sure the light was off since that is the norm here in the US. Light on means operating; light off means NOT operating.

The none reving part may be down the a dead speedo sensor, I bought a brand new Volvo one for my 93 that was dead and made the autobox go mad.

Here in the UK there is an active recall on the fuel tank pipes so it might be worth checking the feed/return hoses on the tank to see if they're leaking as using that much fuel in such a short time is excessive

Chances are you need a new selector unit on the gearbox or the dreaded PNP Switch.

too much gearbox oil in an autobox can be worse than not enough with electronic controlled boxes as the pressure build up will cause all manner of issues

Is there an easy way to drain some of the oil from the transmission?

To start with I would pull the AC fuse which will turn that part off, read all the codes off more than once on each of the A-B boxes till you come back to the first one attempt to reset the codes.

So, do I need to read the codes on the B box as well? I only read the codes on A1, A2, A3, and A7.

Clean all of the ignition system down check the condition of everything see what your lawyer says then post again and we can all try to offer you help . Ozark Lee is a man who knows more than I do on the American Spec 850's and is a wealth of
knowledge.

My legal advice was to call the person and demand my money back and return their car and if they refuse, to sue them in small claims court for fraud. It is a shame really. I like the Volvo's reputation for safety. If I could be sure that it would only take a few hundred dollars to get the car road worthy, I think I would just keep it and spend the few hundred. However, I am not prepared, or even able, to spend a thousand or more. We just don't have it. A dealership won't even look at the car for less than $95 per hour so taking it in and having a qualified Volvo mechanic diagnose the car is not possible. I will try a simple tune-up (plugs, cap and rotor) and see if that solves the running issues. If that doesn't work, I will be taking these people to court.

Sorry for the long post but each part needed it's own section

Thank you for your detailed post. It is very helpful.

[jamesspringer]

The N/A cars will run on anything for fuel. They like premium and have a bit more pep but there will be no damage to the car if you run regular.

Describe your climate unit a bit more (most of the '93's seem to have the electronic climate unit) but, so that we can point you in the right direction, does the climate unit have the temperature graduated in numerical degrees or with graduated width red bars? Does it have any settings that say auto?

Temperature is in graduated numerical degrees. Yes, there is an auto setting. Should the ac light be off as CharlyW says or is that specific to European cars?

What lights turn on in the instrument cluster when you put the key to position II?

On the left, three lights come on: The one to the immediate left of the fuel light (not sure what it is; windshield wiper maybe?), the fuel light, and the one directly below the "wiper" light (headlights maybe?). On the right, the battery indicator, oil indicator, brake indicator, parking brake indicator, the one directly below the oil indicator (radiator fan maybe?), check engine light and service light. All lights except the service light go out once the car is started.

Your problem with clearing the codes may be a problem with cadence and you are hitting the button again too soon after the LED comes on. It takes some practice to get the timing right.

When was your last verified timing belt change. The '93 models had a narrower belt that absolutely MUST be changed every 50,000 miles.

I can't verify when it was last changed. The owner claimed it was changed 20 or 30 k ago but given all the other inaccuracies in his "word", I can't be sure.

If you have any patience, have any time, and are mechanically inclined - and you sound like you are - I think we can help you through this.

...Lee

Thank you. I don't know how mechanically inclined I am but I guess I am about to find out .

[dwbf1]

Without taking the time to respond to every problem...and Charly seems to have covered most things...with respect to your blower motor issue I'd recommend replacing/checking the blower motor resistor and climate control unit (ECC). Based on your comment that you have the Electronic Climate Control (with an "Auto" setting) those units have a high failure rate.

There is a 93 850 in a local JY, so if you find you need some parts let me know. As you'll find, the 93's are a completely different animal with many different parts than the rest of the 850 lineup.