Another busted oil pan

Post by **tjts1** » 21 Oct 2010, 22:43

Someone who shall remain nameless drove the 850 over a curb on the way home last night. This morning I found the car parked in a giant puddle of its own oil. The suspension and tires seem to be ok. The aluminum subframe took the brunt of the damage and the oil pan was left with a 1/2" long incision. Replacing the oil pan is the obvious solution but after really looking into it, I think I'm going to give JB weld a shot first.

The sandy looking stuff on the oil pan is the cat litter I used to soak up the oil on the floor.

Post by **phils94850** » 22 Oct 2010, 02:06

thats a bummer.. As important as that oil pan is i wouldnt mess with jb weld. Its not that difficult to replace the oil pan id get one from a junkyard and go from there.

Post by **renns** » 22 Oct 2010, 05:50

What a bummer... I've fixed a of the stamped steel tranny pans in the past by removing and brazing the damaged section. For a cast pan like this one, it's not quite as easy. JB Weld might work, but to really do a good job you'll want to drop the pan to inspect from inside and clean all oil residue from around the crack region. At that point, you may as well put on a replacement pan if you can find one at a reasonable price. Good luck with the repair, and driver-training for 'nameless'!

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 22 Oct 2010, 14:54

And the "Nameless" party may want to spring for one of these:

Skid Plate.pdf: (79.48 KiB) Downloaded 836 times

Mine looks like this...
http://www.v70r.com/forums/index.php?au ... i&img=1612
I have NO IDEA how it got that messy!

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 22 Oct 2010, 19:34

As busted oil pans go that is fairly minor. You might want to check out a local welding shop to see if they think they can fix it.

Based on the scrapes on the front member on the sub-frame I think the skidplate is a dandy idea.

If you do change out the sump go ahead and change out the O rings while you are at it. It is only a extra 10 minutes worth of work.

...Lee

Post by **Matty Moo** » 22 Oct 2010, 23:08

I've got a couple of them laying around and would let one go cheap.

Honestly, I'd rather replace it than play with it.

Post by **tjts1** » 27 Oct 2010, 17:42

Well, the deed is done. I have to give the JBweld 24 hours to cure then fill it up with oil and let it sit for another 24 hours. If there's no leaks I'll take it for a spin.

Dad03 · Post by **Dad03** » 27 Oct 2010, 17:55

I have a 2002 GMC Sierra Durmax 4x4. One major flaw with the transfer case is that the bracket for the internal pump rubs against the casing. Eventually it makes a 1/16" size hole in the case.

I did a similiar patch, the first attempt lasted a few months then the oil made its way through the small voids between the case and the JB weld. Second time I added some fiberglass mat with the JB weld and made the patch larger. It has held for 2 yrs. I would have welded a patch but the case is magnesium.

Not sure what the 850 oil pan is but welding a patch may be a better fix if the JB does not hold. Thats a pretty big hole.

Post by **tjts1** » 30 Oct 2010, 17:15

After 2 coats of BJweld and 3 days to cure, I filled it up with some cheap oil and took it out for a spin. The engine seems healthy thank god. Now I'm going to let it sit for another day and check for any leaks. So far, so good.

Post by **mikealder** » 31 Oct 2010, 02:40

You need to keep checking that on a regular basis, the different expansion rates of the alloy vs JB Weld could cause the bond to let go resulting in another leak, I would only treat the JB as an interim solution for a week or two while you locate a replacement pan - Mike