http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php
So I followed these instructions and tried to replace my wheel bearing hub but I can’t get the hub & the knuckle to separate. I hit it couple time with the hammer nothing.
I ended up just replacing the axle but I need to replace the bearing hub also, how do I get this thing out?
need help with front bearing hub removal
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jblackburn
- MVS Moderator
- Posts: 14043
- Joined: 8 June 2008
- Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
- Location: Alexandria, VA
- Has thanked: 9 times
- Been thanked: 19 times
www.vandsautodismantlers.com
Give those guys a call. Those Torx bolts were a complete PITA on mine, and that's where I got stuck (I actually BROKE two socket wrenches just pushing on them) even after getting the IMPOSSIBLY seized up axle nut off.
Give those guys a call. Those Torx bolts were a complete PITA on mine, and that's where I got stuck (I actually BROKE two socket wrenches just pushing on them) even after getting the IMPOSSIBLY seized up axle nut off.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier
A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."
mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!
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57buzzard
- Posts: 30
- Joined: 24 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1998 V70 AWD
- Location: Selma, Nova Scotia, Canada
If you have all the bolts removed...crack the nuckle with a hammer around the base of the hub assembly.
This may loosen it enough to give it a good crack with 40 oz hammer on the inside to dislodge it.
It worked for me last week.
Steve
This may loosen it enough to give it a good crack with 40 oz hammer on the inside to dislodge it.
It worked for me last week.
Steve
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reluctant_mechanic
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 25 September 2010
- Year and Model: 850 GLT 97
- Location: massachusetts
I'd use a little heat on the bolts before turning them. It worked for me when changing out the lower control arm and when removing a broken bolt from the SAS valve. I was able to remove and reuse the knuckle bolt retaining the ball joint after applying heat from a map gas plumber's torch. Be careful not to have any solvents or fuel around or on the part.
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Red-Arrow
- Posts: 449
- Joined: 26 August 2010
- Year and Model: 850 T5 1995
- Location: Scotland.
- Been thanked: 2 times
Great tip guys, never used a heavy hammer that you can only swing a low speeds. I always recommend light weight fast strikes from a 12 ounce ball pen hammer. Never found a ball joint or weight bearing that didn't move after a few super fast whacks. It can take 5 or 50 hits bit it will move. Also spray on something like WD40 and let it soak.
Life would be enjoyable if it wasn't so painful to live.
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reluctant_mechanic
- Posts: 33
- Joined: 25 September 2010
- Year and Model: 850 GLT 97
- Location: massachusetts
I would def. use heat. Try heating the part you are gonna remove near where it joins the hub. You can try several heating and cooling down cycles and that will probably free the part with a bit of tapping. I would try to not beat on the part that captures the bearing.
I will probably be changing out the bearings on my car before too long, too; so if you could keep us informed, it would be great.
Thanks
97 850 GLT
I will probably be changing out the bearings on my car before too long, too; so if you could keep us informed, it would be great.
Thanks
97 850 GLT
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