1996 850 turbo wagon

[jackief288]

My 1996 volvo had a brand new battery but it kept needing a jump to get started. I pulled the alternator, had it checked out and it was running @ 13.5-13.6v. I reinstalled the alternator, put a new serpentine belt on, jump started the car-let it run for fifteen minutes or so, took it for a ride and noticed the dash lights dimming slightly, the abs light flashing on and off a few times, my radiator light is still on too. I just put a new temperature coolant sensor in as well as a thermostat sensor when I installed a new thermostat. I've changed the heater core, the PCV system, put silicone vaccum hoses on (passed emissions)!
My car is now not starting or once I jump it, won't start again without jumping. I'm now thinking cam sensor, battery cables, ignition cable? Any help would be appreciated

[Ozark Lee]

You have an excessive parasitic drain on the system. You can normally track down what system is giving you trouble by putting an ammeter in series with a battery cable and then start pulling fuses, one at a time, until the current drops. Look things over for any aftermarket things that might have been installed as well like an old cell phone or an aftermarket alarm system.

The normal parasitic draw is less than 0.1 amp.

...Lee

[phils94850]

+1 on what lee said...

[VolvoTurbo850]

Here is how you do it.



or this

[JRL]

Have any of the battery cables been chenged?
They go bad and get to the point where they don't hold a charge

[V850B5254T]

Hi All,

Recently my 97 850T automatic has developed a problem keeping the battery charged.
Battery is new (<6 month) and the generator is charging within acceptable limits.
I have tried to measure leakage (parasitic) current and removing fuses one by one and found no change en leakage.
At the start of this troubleshooting, the leakage was a steady 650mA but after fiddling around with fuses and connectors it fell to a mere 100mA as follows:

When connecting the am-meter and thus closing the circuit, the current starts at approx. 1Ampere, - after a couple of seconds it will decrease to 600mA, - then to 150mA and finally settle at 100mA.

Lee mentions that the normal parasitic current flowing from the battery should be less than 100mA :

You have an excessive parasitic drain on the system. You can normally track down what system is giving you trouble by putting an ammeter in series with a battery cable and then start pulling fuses, one at a time, until the current drops. Look things over for any aftermarket things that might have been installed as well like an old cell phone or an aftermarket alarm system.

The normal parasitic draw is less than 0.1 amp.

...Lee

Well, the leakage is 100mA with all fuses and relays removed, all connectors below the dashboard disconnected (including radio and other extras) and the motor and gearbox electronic pulled out of their sockets.
The current is measured on the wire leading from the battery to the fuse box, all other wires are still connected to the battery.

Does anybody know where this current flows?

The reason for my interest in a leakage current that apparently is within acceptable limits is that it fell from a unreasonable high (650mA) to the current level without any explanation and it might rise again without notice.

/oakey

[Ozark Lee]

The only thing left is the starter and the alternator after you pulled all of the fuses. I have seen alternator diodes short out and cause this problem but it is rare.

...Lee