Feel like Jello...

kluchtman · Post by **kluchtman** » 26 Nov 2010, 13:33

In the morning when I start up my 92 960 everything is great! It purs like a kitten and the drive is smooth. By the time I get on to the road for work (13.2 Miles later or 20 minutes) the car is starting to shake. Recently I drove it for almost 2 hours straight and by the time I was done with my trip I felt like I was jello on the back of a dog shaking the water off. I replaced the sparkplugs hoping that would do it, but no dice. Anyone have any idea why after the engine seems to warm up it is shaking like this? I need to try to fix it before christmas since I will be driving to see inlaws.

ed7 · Post by **ed7** » 26 Nov 2010, 16:53

This really doesn't sound like an engine miss, it sounds as if it's mechanical. Try tossing it into neutral as you're feeling the shake. Just to separate the engine from the drive train and confirm which is the source.
This doesn't sound safe and needs to be addressed. Wheel bearings, CV joint, wheels, tires.
Get thee to a wrench, anon.
Ed

kluchtman · Post by **kluchtman** » 26 Nov 2010, 19:13

It does it even when it is in park. My father used to own this car, he would always put mid grade and every now and then high gas. He said he never had this kind of a problem and that's why he gave me the car because it was so relighable for the past 18 years. I use what ever is the least expensive and now days that has 10% ethonal. Could the low grade gas be causing this?

Post by **precopster** » 26 Nov 2010, 22:43

10% ethanol based fuel is a great idea, uses the sugar industry here in Oz and keeps fuel systems clean; too clean. There are mechanics who claim that as soon as two or three months of use have passed on a fuel system that has always had regular fuel, all the sludge and crap that has accumulated for 15 years or more gets dragged into the fuel filter blocking flow. Worse still all that crud finds its way past the filter and sometimes gums up fuel pumps and blocks injectors . Within eight months of occasional ethanol use I needed a new fuel pump in my own 93 960.

Change your fuel filter, remove the injectors and have them flushed. Now would be a good time for a new main fuel pump, too. From then on use ethanol based fuels every second or third fill instead of every fill unless the car is new.

Post by **precopster** » 26 Nov 2010, 22:50

Also if you spray cold water directly on the fuel pump while the engine is mifiring and the problem goes away you can bet your booty the fuel pump is clagged.

kluchtman · Post by **kluchtman** » 27 Nov 2010, 05:21

So it sounds like this may be the problem. It has been exactly 3 months since I got the car from my father. Is there any PDF's that show where the fuel pump is or where the fuel filter is so that I can replace either. I looked on volvospeed but I am only finding for 850s and S70+.

Post by **billofdurham** » 27 Nov 2010, 11:29

I looked on volvospeed

We won't hold that against you!!

Take a look at this. It is the same for the 940 and 960.

The lines to and from the filter are held on by quick release connectors. The easiest way to get them loose is to lever them with a 17mm open ended spanner:

: untitled.JPG (8.46 KiB) Viewed 1476 times

Bill.

kluchtman · Post by **kluchtman** » 27 Nov 2010, 19:03

Ok, so I looked at the fuel pump and fuel filter, if this is needed I will have to rebuild that area. Rust has taken over the fuel line between the pump and filter. I don't mind doing the work but if I can avoid doing it for now I would prefer to wait another 6 months or so. I disconnected the line from the fuel filter to the engine and the fuel was clear, it didn't look bad. So assuming my problem is fuel related, if I switch to 100% gas, in time will that clear up the issue? I have only used E10 gas for the past 2k miles so I am assuming I haven't caused to much damage. Bill & precopster I would really like to hear your thoughts.

Post by **precopster** » 27 Nov 2010, 23:37

Is the rust on the outside of the line b/w filter & pump? Fuel generally won't allow the inside of metal fuel lines to rust if it is in contact.

You can't measure dirt or a seized bearing INSIDE a fuel pump & filter. Simply replace. Also injectors can't be cleaned by using regular fuel or otherwise. You COULD try an injector cleaner, but these generally don't work for blocked ones.

The filter & main pump are located under the driver's seat in the USA or passenger seat in OZ and Britain. There are four cage bolts through rubber grommets to remove and afew bolts/brackets. FCP groton has the pumps and filters for your car.

I bought the generic brand pump from FCP and found it to be externally noisy; though fine inside the car.
Switching back to regular fuel won't help if the pump has slime in it and the bearing is seized. Once the bearing is seized that is it. Have you tried getting it hot enough to miss & then spraying water on the pump directly?

kluchtman · Post by **kluchtman** » 28 Nov 2010, 05:14

precopster wrote:Is the rust on the outside of the line b/w filter & pump? Fuel generally won't allow the inside of metal fuel lines to rust if it is in contact.

No, the rust is just on the outside of the line.

precopster wrote:Have you tried getting it hot enough to miss & then spraying water on the pump directly?

No I haven't tried this yet, I will try to get it today.

Just to be clear now that I think about it. The engine doesn't sputter, or sound like it is missing. It just physically moves after it is warm.