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1998 V70 XC AWD Random Misfire. P0300, P0302, P0304, P0305

Help, Advice and DIY Tutorials on Volvo's P80 platform cars -- Volvo's 1990s "bread and butter" cars -- powered by the ubiquitous and durable Volvo inline 5-cylinder engine.

1992 - 1997 850, including 850 R, 850 T-5R, 850 T-5, 850 GLT
1997 - 2000 S70, S70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70, V70 AWD
1997 - 2000 V70-XC
1997 - 2004 C70

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v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

1998 V70 XC AWD Random Misfire. P0300, P0302, P0304, P0305

Post by v70xc »

1998 V70 XC AWD Random Misfire. P0300, P0302, P0304, P0305
I am driving the turbo N/A turbo model.
I am getting the above ODBCII codes. The car sounds to have a `slight` sputter when it starts but runs great otherwise. I think there is a slight “sputter” towards the front of the catalytic converter. I don`t think I am needing to be worried about at this time.
I have cleared the codes various times and they keep coming back time and time again, thus the reason I am looking for feedback from out here.

The following is some of the information I think you might want in order to assess the situation.
Should you need/want further information, just say the word and I will reply with all that I can.
Along with the following, I am also getting a yellow light regarding the emission testing….I think this could be related to the misfire issue, so going to potentially look at this as item #2 once the misfire is resolved.

Compression test
1- 185
2- 180
3- 185
4- 170
5- 185

Ignition Coil testing
The Chilton manual I have claims the volvo primary=0.05ohm to 1.5ohm, secondary=8 to 9 Kohms
My readings on the ignition coil are as follows 0.4ohms on primary, 7.96 K ohms secondary


Alternator testing do these look ok?
No load 12.32V
Start drop: 10.64, 13.65, 13.82, 13.79
Heater 12.01 13.76
Radio 13.75
Rear defrost 13.09 13.71 13.69
High beams 13.69 13.72 13.68
Rear fog 13.69 13.70 13.67
Fan off 13.73 13.72 13.74
Rear defrost off: 13.69 13.72 13.8e 13.78 13.79 Defrost on drop 12.69 13.71 Defrost off 13.79 13.80 13.77
Front fog lights off 13.83 13.81 13.82
....
Car off 13.30, 13.25, 13.20
Open door light on 13.04
Door closed light off key out 12.95, 12.93, 12.98, 12.98, 12.98, 12.97

What else can I look at?
I am at a loss. Please help.
PS: I don’t have a local Volvo shop nearby, so purchasing parts as a trial / error is either out of the question or to be very expensive, thus, not a route I want to take…thanks
Thank you in advance for any and help anyone can offer. I would love to have this resolved online and without having to have a costly mechanic give me the answer.
Thanks again
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

Post by v70xc »

All help wanted...thanks
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

FlyingVolvo
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Year and Model: 2000 V70XC
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Post by FlyingVolvo »

Hi there, please be patient as there aren't always tons of people online! Welcome to the forums by the way! :mrgreen:

What condition are your spark plugs in? Make sure to use Volvo OEM plugs or Bosch Copper gapped correctly at 0.028".

Check to see that your ignition wires are in good shape, and that the cap/rotor are functioning. If in doubt, replace! There should be no cracks in the boots or wires. If so, they should also be replaced (OEM ONLY!)

Also, I think you're a little confused as far as your model. "N/A" refers to naturally aspirated cars with no turbo. Your 98 XC does have a light pressure turbo and therefore is not N/A.
2000 V70XC - 340,000 miles
Hilton Tune, 16T Turbo, Mototec 3" downpipe, Blue injectors, IPD Short Ram Filter, Snabb Intake Piping & RIP kit, do88 Intercooler, TME Dual Exhaust, HID Projectors, R Panels, do88 Silicone Hoses

2023 V60 T8 PE

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
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Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

I believe you may have either a bad ignition coil or a failing crankshaft position sensor, resulting in the multiple misfires.

Look under the hood with the car running at night. Do you notice any blue arcing/zapping noises coming from the coil? If so, that's a dead giveaway.

If not, it might be time for a dist cap/rotor and new plugs. If you don't want to spend money just yet, you can crack it open and look at the condition of the internal parts. At 150K, neither of mine were in too bad shape, but I replaced them anyway. At 200K/18 years, my Honda's was in terrible shape, with a definite sputter noticeable in the engine. It depends on the car.

If none of the above seem to be the issue, replace the crankshaft position sensor. You can go used with this route as a process of elimination; there are plenty of junkyards around most places or people parting out cars on this and other forums that I'm sure would be willing to send you a part. It is hard to test for an intermittently failing sensor, as the signal is still being output - just wonky. The majority of the time, the camshaft (yes, a different one) sensor will throw a code if it is pissed off but has not failed entirely.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

Post by v70xc »

Wow.. thanks for the quick replies. And thanks for the Welcome :)
I have owned the car since July and have only put 1000km on it since it is a second vehicle until my other lease comes due in Dec 2010 which is soon :)
Thank for correcting me on th e N/A, ecbsykes you are correct :D
First batch of fixes includeded
- PCV Breather system changed (this cleared up oil on top of engine)
- Volvo OEM plugs gapped at 0.028"
- new Bougicor
- rotor and distributor cap, both Bosch

I have tested the coil according to information I have found primary coil =0.05ohm to 1.5ohm, secondary=8 to 9 Kohms, where as my numbers are as follows, ignition 0.4ohms on primary, 7.96 K ohms secondary.
I have tried at the coil a few nights ago and could not find blue arcing/zapping noises. I will look again. Is there any way that I can otherwise test?

I will look up the "crankshaft position sensor" but last time I looked at the junk yards here, I could not find any parts, much less a Volvo :( Does anyone have a crankshaft position sensor they wish to send to Northern Ontario :) ... this would not be a sensor that would be able to come from another car make or model... can it?

jablackburn : since there is no code for the camshaft (yet) you are not thinking it needs changing?


Hope I covered everything.... thanks for the help folks... keep up the great work,,, much appreciated
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

I guess I missed that part at 2 am, sorry bout that :D

Since I'm guessing you've got a voltmeter already if you were doing those tests, I would try a resistance test on the crankshaft position sensor. It's just above the bellhousing on the transmission. Unplug the connector, and have a helper crank the engine over while you check the resistance values. It should fluctuate between 200-500 ohms or so; anything outside of that range means it needs to be replaced. Again, this isn't a definite test, as it may just be having trouble sending a consistent signal.

Usually, a cam position sensor will throw a code if it is having intermittent problems.

Don't assume it's not worn ignition components either - get the distributor cap off and have a look inside.

While you're in there, zip tie the cam/crank position sensors away from the distributor coil wire. I think this might have been fixed already by the 98 models (I've never had a problem with it), but it can cause interference if they get too close.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

Post by v70xc »

Thanks. Not exactly sure I know where it is that you are saying the BellHousing, but will have a look.\
As I recall when I was doing the PCV change, there were two electrical connections relatively close to the distributor cap... one yellow and one white (if memory servers)... are these the lines that you are suggesting that I zip tie?

Jacblackburn: you also mentioned "Don't assume it's not worn ignition components either"... with only 1000KM on my new distributor cap, rotor, wires and plugs, you think I might have to pull the distributor cap again and look inside for worn contacts? hmmmm hope I don't wear them out that quickly... will get costly replace the cap with ever 1000KM... will look... :shock:

Thank you
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14043
Joined: 8 June 2008
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
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Post by jblackburn »

Heh, you caught me. Again, it seems. That's where I was reading too quick again. Didn't realized you'd replaced those, so ignore that :mrgreen:

Image]
See that black insulated (not the plastic crap that falls apart) wire on the very very, right of this picture? That's your crankshaft sensor and one of the wires you want to get away from it.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

Post by v70xc »

Thanks again for the prompt reply.
I take it you are warning me about keeping the wire going to the white connector away from the distributor cap... as pointed out in the following pics... correct?
I hope my misfire could be that simple of a fix.... otherwise, guess it will be time to get to the crankshaft sensor itself.... the white is the crankshaft sensor line I trust?
100_5465_2.jpg
100_5465_2.jpg (159.6 KiB) Viewed 7699 times
100_5576_2.jpg
100_5576_2.jpg (113.05 KiB) Viewed 7699 times
100_5829_2.jpg
Not all great pics, but they should do the job so that we are on the same page...
Though some of these show all the dirt in the engine and on the wires, no fears, I cleaned up as best as I could while I was doing the PCV fix 8)
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

v70xc
Posts: 75
Joined: 10 November 2010
Year and Model: V70XC AWD Turbo 1998
Location: Northern Ontario

Post by v70xc »

Wow… that was too nice to do.. :)
Fix
No replacement parts
And best of all, no payment for hardware, tools or a paid mechanic.
Thank you so much for the prompt replies.
Previously I would go 10Km or so and would start to get P0300, P0302, P0304 and P0305 ODBII codes… random misifires. I must have routed the crankshaft sensor wire a different route when I did the PCV change. I simply though I was putting everything back together in the most appropriate ways/routes. Either I did this and there were issues previously or I change the route of this set of wires. Either way, my problem of getting the misfire errors on #2, #4 and #5 did not occur when I went for a 45Km test drive this evening. As best as I can recall, I used to get ODBII codes within the firsts 10Km of driving preveiously.
You guys are great. Thanks for the help
Below is a picture …Red is the route that the wire ran previously, Yellow is the route that the wire is running now and working great.
THANKS....
ps: with such great help in such short time, you can be sure that I will continue to review and post as I have questions :) thanks again
100_6645_2.jpg
1998 V70XC AWD Turbo

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