240 Drain/replace fluids, hesitation, throttle body Topic is solved

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 14 Mar 2011, 11:45

I've got a few questions to run by everyone. I recently purchased a Volvo, this one a 90 240DL, 4 door sedan. I'm about to drain & replace the oil & filter, Coolant & transmission fluid. Is it advisable to use a full synthetic oil? If so, what weight? 5W 30, 10W30? I'm in Va so it doesn't get that cold. When I drain the ATF (looks to be dirty also) should I replace the filter/screen or not. I think I read in another post that it's wise to do a couple of fills/drains to really clean out the whole system, using a less expensive one the first couple of times. The coolant appears darker than usual and I want to check to make sure I'm not getting any oil mixing with.

I've got a spray can of MAF which I'm wanting to spray into the carb/throttle area. It says on the can to disconnect the hose just after the MAF sensor, spray into the throttle/carb area. Is that an acceptable way of cleaning up that part of the engine? It should also help to clean out the fuel injectors as well right? I usually add Lucas fuel treatment at every fill up too. The car seems to bog down when accelerating from a stop and almost wants to die but once it gets up to 20 an above I don't sense any hesitation unless I'm trying to accelerate and pass someone.

Also, I've yet to find a Haynes manual but my odometer is not working, but everything else on the dash works.

Thanks,

Aaron

Post by **billofdurham** » 14 Mar 2011, 12:43

I wouldn't use full synthetic at that age and mileage. It has a nasty habit of finding little gaps in seals and squeezing itself out.

I have used semi-synthetic for many years in all of my Volvos and have never been able to fault it.

Volvo deleted the requirement to change the transmission filter on the 240 in 1990. The recommendation now is to only change the filter during transmission repair. If the fluid is really dirty then take the double fill/drain route. The fluid should be changed every 20,000 miles on this model, something usually overlooked by most owners.

I would disconnect the hose at the the other end to the MAF as that leads straight into the throttle body. I don't think it will have any effect on the injectors as you aren't putting the cleaner through them.

Cleaning the throttle body may help with the bogging down but if you are having hesitation accelerating you should also be checking things like plugs, plug leads and distributor.

If you get around to replacing the odometer drive this link may help. The photos aren't in the correct order but they can be sorted out quite easily.

Bill.

edelmatt · Post by **edelmatt** » 14 Mar 2011, 14:14

Hi Aaron. I just finished replacing the AT filter on my 1990 240 DL (180k miles on mine). I did the whole job and only then realized that I had replaced just about a third of the volume of tranny fluid. The filter was fairly dirty though so I'm glad I changed it out. If you see the other thread I started, I am told you can circulate out the old tranny fluid by disconnecting the return line from the radiator and running the fluid out while you replace it via the filler tube. I still have a couple unanswered questions about the procedure before I give it a try. Hoping to get all questions answered on the thread and then I'll give it a shot.
www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37245

Good luck.
Matt

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 16 Mar 2011, 09:08

I forgot to post info to better diagnose my problem of hesitation upon acceleration, the Bosch plugs are good, new wires are good, distributor is fine as the cap & rotor.

I drained the coolant & oil/filter yesterday with no problems. I also did the ATF drain, but like Matt, I did not drain it all. I don't think I got it all out as I just drained it from the drain plug, much like doing the oil, I didn't have to unscrew the ATF filler tube to drain. I will make sure to disconnect the line to the radiator the next time.

Upon removal of the air filter & replacing that, I kept going & disconnected the MAF which was oily. When I disconnected the hose that is between the MAF & the carb throttle area, it was full of oil sludge. I cleaned that hose out with brake kleen, but now I need to clean out the throttle area and I'm wondering how I can diagnose & fix this issue.

When trying to accelerate it almost wants to die and I can't get it above 50MPH. It feels like a vacum leak but couldn't find one. With all this oil in that hose an all of it up in the throttle area, i assume it's coming from the crankcase PCV . If so what do i need to fix this problem. I've got the car torn apart and I need to fix it soon to get the kids from school alter today. Thanks for the assistance on this one.

Post by **billofdurham** » 16 Mar 2011, 12:43

Attached is a diagram of the PCV for the 240. You need to replace the flame shield, otherwise known as the flame trap, as it will probably be choked with oil. Clean the oil trap and the hoses. Be careful you don't pull hose #11 from the sump as it can't be replaced from the top, it needs the sump removed.

240 PCV version 1.pdf: (48.93 KiB) Downloaded 1286 times

To clean the throttle body you need to remove it from the car, clean it with carb cleaner and re-install with a new gasket.

Bill.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 16 Mar 2011, 14:09

prior to reading your comments I had done the following. Per your PDF image I cleaned, hose #6, hose #8, hose #9, I cleaned out #7nipple. When I disconnected the nipple from both hoses it appeared to be one whole piece. could it be that the flame shield is part of it? it had a bunch of holes/tubes on the top end, which by the way I cleaned up using brake kleen. I also cleaned out the throttle body, but I did not disconnect it, rather with it in place sprayed some SeaFoam in while keeping the rpm's high enough that it wouldn't stall. Put it all back together, no difference.

would it make that much difference to disassemble it, to clean it further? I've been reading other posts trying to find similar problems and I may be at the point that I've got to pay someone to diagnose it. I checked the injectors and they are all working, dont' know output levels though. Fuel pressure regulator has been listed as a remedy, dunno. I don't have access to a computer to check for codes. that might point me in the right direction and save me from buying parts that I don't need.

I need to get an inspection this week and I will have them check for codes. other than that any further advice?

thanks,

A

Post by **billofdurham** » 16 Mar 2011, 16:23

You can check for codes using the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) unit in the engine compartment. Instructions for its use are pinned at the top of the forum.

Bill.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 16 Mar 2011, 19:42

oh, forgot to mention, when I bought this car it was not running. I suspected that it might be the computer that's under the front passenger glove box & side panel. I got one from the junk yard an I plugged it in and the car came to life. If fixed the problem that the previous owner had said, which was that the alternator was not charging the battery etc.

not being a mechanic by trade I don't always know what information is or is not relevant in diagnosing a particular problem. I will take time tomorrow to check the OBD and I hope to report back some sort of directive. thanks,

A,

FYI I used to a Peugeot, it was an 81 505 Turbo Diesel and boy did I have a lot of fun driving that car on the highway. paid penny's for it too. Another one of those, "wish I still had it" situations.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 17 Mar 2011, 08:27

Hey Bill,

Wow, thanks for pointing me in the right direction with regards to the OBD. I went ahead this morning and completed the series of steps and I got these 2 codes. 1-1-3 & 4-1-1.

My question is this, according to my Haynes manual for my 90 240DL code 1-1-3 is Fault in fuel injectors, code 4-1-1 is LH 3.1, Throttle sensor signal missing or faulty. I'm not sure what LH 3.1 refers to. Yesterday while working on the car I put a screwdriver on top of the fuel injectors and I heard the consistent tapping in each one. I guess it could be that the spray nozzle is all gummed up, what do you think.

When I go to the top of the forum, and click on repair database, the pull down menu for trouble codes, I find different code's with different diagnosis's an I'm not sure why that is. Did I miss something?

Post by **billofdurham** » 17 Mar 2011, 12:37

Bosch LH 3.1 is the fuel system on your car. It is an improved version of the LH 2.4.

Code 1-1-3 can be injectors, fuel pressure or short term fuel trim. This may have been set when you were having the MAF problem and you may have fixed it but the code remains in the memory until you clear it.

Code 4-1-1 is the throttle position sensor. The attached is how to check it.

240 DTC 411.pdf: (148.9 KiB) Downloaded 813 times

Remember to clear the codes when you have finished the work.

Bill.