- mass airflow sensor (MAF): how to check it
- throttle position sensor (TPS): how to check it
- diagram of the PCV for the 240
- transmission fluid change schedule on 240s
When trying to accelerate it almost wants to die and I can’t get it above 50MPH. It feels like a vacuum leak but couldn’t find one. With all this oil in that hose an all of it up in the throttle area, i assume it’s coming from the crankcase PCV . If so what do i need to fix this problem. I’ve got the car torn apart and I need to fix it soon to get the kids from school alter today. Thanks for the assistance on this one.1990 240 owner cgreygoose
I got it back from the Volvo place where they removed the whole throttle body housing and cleaned it out, new gasket, new adjustments at , TPS, throttle arm linkage & adjusted the accelerator cable where it wraps around the circular disc. I also installed a new speed sensor, and before I replaced the MAF from another volvo,the hoses’s were all full of oil again as was the flame shield all gunked up. but still not much difference when trying to accelerate. I put my original MAF back on but forgot to connect it. the car sputtered, almost stalled during idleling but once I put it in drive I was off. felt like a turbo, drove like it should with great pick up, (well way way much better than before), but once I plugged it back in, it was back to slow acceleration.1990 240 owner cgreygoose
So, what does that tell you? why plug the MAF back in ? I’m still getting really bad gas mileage for this 4 cylinder. This might be way out in left field but could the transmission be contributing to this slow acceleration? I’m on my 2nd fluid refill/drain and it’s come much cleaner since the first draining.
I don’t really know what else to do.
I have an 88′ 245 Volvo. This weekend I removed the throttle body and all air hoses in order to replace the Oil Separator. In removing the throttle body, I had to detach the Throttle Position Sensor from it’s Electrical Lead, it was tight but I got it off, carefully with a flathead. I didn’t know the TPS screws actually adjust the sensor, in the process I loosened them as it gave a better angle for the flathead. I managed to replace the flame trap, PCV hose, nipple, Oil Separator and cleaned the throttle body. It was today that I came across Bill and Aaron’s posts about the TPS making a click when you go clockwise and than counter clockwise. As I had both screws completely removed from the TPS, I turned the unit back and forth (5) five times unaware that I was disturbing the unit in it’s function. I tightened the TPS in no particular way, just so it was tight. Having read all the posts, I want to set the TPS as best as I can. Does the TPS need to be attached to its electrical lead to “click”? and does the key need to be in the ignition turned at I, II, or III? I do little work with electric and all.1988 240 GL owner frances
Bonus! More on the Volvo 240
For model year 1983, the emblem at the rear of all 240 models was changed. No longer did it say 242, 244 or 245. The badge just said 240, as part of a new designation strategy. In reality, however, most people continued to refer to their cars as a 242, 244 or 245.
Bonus! Volvo Facts
- Volvo first started making cars in 1927, but that wasn’t the first Volvo product. In 1911, founders Assar Gabrielsson and Gustaf Larson registered Volvo as a trademark for ball bearings – Volvo means ‘I roll’ in Latin. When Gabrielsson and Larson moved into car manufacturing, they chose the ancient chemical symbol for iron as a logo to symbolise the strength and power of a Volvo.
This change did not mean any large-scale modification to the cars.
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