240 Drain/replace fluids, hesitation, throttle body Topic is solved

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 18 Mar 2011, 08:26

Hey BIll,

Since my last post this is what I've done;
Got a good can of carb cleaner and sprayed it on the carb and everything else that was connected to it listening for any difference in the idle. it appears all is tight and no leaks anywhere. I went to my local Volvo import shop and bought a bottle of very good fuel injector clean that I poured into the gas tank. I then went to Bap Geon and purchased a new Bosch TPS ($65) as the old one was not making the clicking sounds when I engaged the throttle. I took it for a drive and it seems worse now. I have to be very gentle whenever I need to accelerate as it wants to shut down on me. There is great hesitation even up to 45+ MPH. It hasn't stalled yet but it wants to. I re-checked the OBD codes and the 1-1-3 was fixed and now I'm left with the same 4-1-1, "Throttle sensor signal missing or faulty". I checked the fuses, and the connection to the new TPS and they seem to be ok.

I'm also sensing that when I'm in Drive and stopped the idle is normal but put it in P or N and the idle begins to raise. I don't have a tach but I think it would be between 1000-2000 rpm's. could be wrong but you get the point.

I was cleaning out the car and I found an inspection receipt that goes back to 07 and the mileage was just a few thousand miles less than what it shows now, so it appears that for a few years it has not been recording the mileage. In terms of maintenance what should I begin to check knowing that the mileage far exceeds what it says on the odometer.

thanks,

Aaron

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 18 Mar 2011, 11:24

should I change my subject and start a new post at this point, since we're no longer dealing with fluid replacement?

as a new user, I want to post responsibly.

anyhoo, I've got the new TPS installed per my last post, and still no difference. To adjust my TPS, My Haynes manual is suggesting that I loosen both retaining screws that hold the TPS to the throttle body and either turn clock wise or counter clockwise, with making changes to the throttle control rod, & back out the throttle stop screw, etc. This NOT in any order, I"m just throwing out these steps that are part of making adjustments.

Despite changing the ATF it also feels like when I'm trying to accelerate it's wanting to go into the higher gear but it's waiting for something, so I let up on the gas pedal just a bit and it will fall into that gear. Does that help any ??

Post by **billofdurham** » 18 Mar 2011, 12:31

Don't worry about starting a new thread. I have amended the title to cover more of the points as they have followed on from the first one.

This is the Volvo instruction for adjusting the throttle position switch.

: untitled.jpg (15.32 KiB) Viewed 5436 times

It is possible that getting the TPS adjusted properly will help the gear changes.

Bill.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 20 Mar 2011, 09:30

I wrote a response yesterday to your last post but I don't see it anywhere. Basically, I performed the adjustment on the TPS and was able to confirm the click etc., tighten up the retaining screws but no difference.

It's bizzare, though I have to gingerly feather the gas pedal at all stages of acceleration from zero up to 75MPH, once I"m at a cruising speed the car feels great, but when I slow down or come to a stop it happens each time I go to give it gas.

Last night after the car sat for most of the day, when I started it up and went around the blocked it drove great for the first few mins. then it went back to the same problem of poor acceleration. This morning I unplugged the TPS, started the car up and drove around the block and it did not give me any hesitation. I could tell no difference when it's plugged in or out. and once again after a few mins. it was back to the same issue.

I have a new code that sprung up yesterday, 1-2-1, fault in signal for air mass meter. Why this code should pop up all of the sudden is beyond me. I'm finding it a bid dangerous with the kids in the car as I can never guarantee that I will pull out into oncoming traffic & not accelerate quick enough.

Oxygen sensor?

What should my next step be?

Thanks,
A.

Post by **billofdurham** » 20 Mar 2011, 12:18

First step with a MAF code is to disconnect the MAF and see if it makes any difference to the running.

The attached shows how to check the earth (ground) and voltage to the MAF.

240 code 1-2-1.pdf: (223.48 KiB) Downloaded 516 times

Bill.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 21 Mar 2011, 09:22

MAF is working properly. I'm not sure what my gas mileage is since the odometer is broken but I think with it being a 4 cylinder that I should be getting more mileage between fill ups. I will be dropping off my 240 on Wed. am for inspection and I'm hoping that they will have time to diagnose what it is that's not working properly.

With all the symptoms that I've listed do we have any idea what to check next? If I can avoid having to pay the $80+ per hour that would be great.

Thanks,

A.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 22 Mar 2011, 08:12

Hey Bill,
I'm sorry but I had to start a new thread, I hope you don't mind. I'm still trying to figure what went wrong. Thanks for your help in this ongoing thread. I will be closing out this one and will continue on the new post.

Aaron

wurkin4it · Post by **wurkin4it** » 22 Mar 2011, 13:48

I didn't notice if you got a reply to the odometer issue. I had this on a couple of my 240's and both times it was the small drive gear that needed replacement. They get brittle and the teeth will break off. There is a kit available from ipd that includes an instructional CD.

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 23 Mar 2011, 08:24

no, I actually have been so focused on the poor acceleration problem. I'll make a note to follow up on your post once I'm ready to do so.

thanks,

Aaron

cgreygoose · Post by **cgreygoose** » 29 Mar 2011, 07:38

I'm following up since my car was taken to the shop for inspection & diagnostic work. they took apart the whole throttle housing off to be cleaned again, readjusted the TPS, adjusted the throttle linkage, reset the cable adjustment and told me to replace the MAF & engine temp sensor.

I've replaced the MAF as well as the engine temp sensor with no change in my acceleration issues. in fact, it seems a little bit worse. both MAF's once disconnected caused the engine to stall, so they both seem to be working fine. When I unplug thy TPS it does not make any real difference. first thing in the morning when I start it up and go around two blocks or so, the car responds nicely upon acceleration but within 1 minute it's back to the same poor acceleration.

I'm getting close to spending in parts & labor the same amount spent to buy this volvo. If I try to accelerate too quickly the carts bogs down, it actually feels like I get better response letting up on the gas pedal than I do pushing it down farther. I have guys on pedal bikes that are passing me when I try to accelerate from a stop.

with the kids in back, it's difficult to pull out in front of traffic for fear that I will get hit in the rear.

any additional tips or direction to fix my 240? also, I'm getting really bad gas mileage for this 4 cylinder. not as bad as my 62 Lincoln but still.....

i need help. please.

thanks,

A.

240 Drain/replace fluids, hesitation, throttle body Topic is solved

Re: drain/replac fluids 90 240 DL with apprx. 170K