850 - Brakes and Suspension problems (I got 'em!)

[pkc303]

My wallet did too, but it's a job you want to do only when you can't remember the last time you did it.

[Schmitty]

Quick question, would it be worth my time to (while I'm waiting on parts) jack up my car, take off the wheels and spray on some liquid wrench? It wouldn't do anything bad like make the bolts super-seized would it?

Also, if my front suspension is this crapped out, is there a way to check my back to make sure it's not about to fall apart also?

[polskamafia mjl]

I suggest PB Blaster, but yes that's a priority. As far as the rear suspension, I rebuilt mine when I did the front. I'm not sure there is a way to really check. But if it were me, I would do the rear too. It's a lot easier than the front. Here's a write up I did, check it out and see what you think -> https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... suspension

[precopster]

This Pic below is a list of what I ordered to create new assemblies without having to use any of my old strut tower parts.
You could do the same and save the hassle of separating old rusty assemblies. To release the old springs cut the chrome shock by using a hacksaw or grinder (but be sure to use spring compressors for safety's sake)

I ordered the shocks and springs (Bilstein Tourings & FCP wagon Lowering Springs) separately so when all this gear was together I could create a whole shock tower assembly without the need to strip my old units down.

My mistake was that I ordered "Aftermarket" XC90 spring seats which turned out to be Scan Tech. Better to go XC90 genuine (which FCP doesn't provide) or 850 Genuine (which are cheaper)
Take my word for it, Scan Tech can't even make front cam seals that fit!!

I've incuded a breakdown pic of the front suspension (courtesy of FCP)

The wagon now handles like a racecar (at least it feels like it after the old original setup) and the ride from the lowering springs and Bilstein Tourings isn't as hard as I expected. BTW the rear springs from FCP are now progressive rate so better than OEM!!

Hope this helps!!

[Schmitty]

I got all those parts except the fitting, cap, washer and lock nut. Can I reuse mine or should I get new ones?

EDIT: Here's some pics of what I have to deal with.

[precopster]

I couldn't bear putting old, rusty parts next to new shiny ones, but that's just me.

You may have a lot of grief getting those top nuts off!! It may pay to go over all your bolts with a wire brush and treat them with Loctite 771 (Nickel Anti Seize) or similar product or buy new ones.

The two large strut bolts will be corroded where they contact the knuckle joint, particularly the lower one.

[Schmitty]

I went through your list and ordered the parts I didn't have + a K&N air filter (to get my order over $99 for the free shipping). I like the idea of completely assembling the struts before even removing any parts off the Volvo.
I am indeed not looking forward to tackling the bolts. I've been spraying them, almost out a can of B'laster already. I noticed a bunch of thick black goop under where the brake line connects to the caliper so I've been cleaning that as well. Fun times.

[polskamafia mjl]

Take a rubber mallet and smack them a couple of times.

[Schmitty]

Did I do something wrong?

I got the strut assembled (shop had to compress the spring for me) and installed the two new (complete OEM) struts and Meyle sway bars and noticed something. The cap is sticking up a little bit, both caps on both sides. I tried turning them and they don't budge. Is this normal for the cap to stick up a quarter inch or so?

[Ozark Lee]

Is this normal for the cap to stick up a quarter inch or so?

Totally normal. You look just fine.

...Lee