changing s70 / 850 hub bearing...

da7 · Post by **da7** » 04 Apr 2011, 03:13

hi everybody, need to get one of these done on my car, just wondering if I was paying a mechanic to do this, how many hours of labour would I be expected to pay? (since these are supposed to be easier than getting the bearing off and back on like most other cars?)

if I were to do this myself, would it be easy enough if I've got the air tools and torque wrench etc? I've read the write-ups many many times, but I'm just not too confident with the control arm part... as I've read if I were to replace the bushing I'll need the hydraulic press?

will appreciate any comments or suggestions, thank you..

shakamambutu · Post by **shakamambutu** » 04 Apr 2011, 05:01

hi. heres what i got after some searching (as i also have to change my left front bearing) looks pretty straight forward to me. nothing really out of the ordinary, coz some people were scaring me saying that volvos are hard to fix...

here it is:

things you'll need:
Hydraulic jack
(2) Jack stands
Lug wrench
13 mm wrench
(2) Bungee cords
10 mm Hex head wrench
Philips screwdriver
Hammer
Front brake rotors
1
Park the car on a firm, level surface and apply the parking brake. Raise the front of the vehicle with a hydraulic jack so that the wheels are off the ground and place a jack stand under each suspension lower control arm. Lower the hydraulic jack and remove it.

2
Remove the front wheels by loosening and removing the lug nuts in a counter clockwise direction with a lug wrench. Set the wheels and nuts aside.

3
Remove the two brake caliper holding bolts with a 13 mm wrench in a counter clockwise direction and set them aside. Slide the caliper off of the brake rotor and hang it out of the way with a bungee cord. Be careful not to stress or kink the flexible brake hose that will still be attached to the caliper. Repeat this step for both the right and left side.

4
Remove the caliper mounting bracket by backing out the two holding bolts with a 10 mm hex head wrench in a counter clockwise direction. Set the bolts and the caliper bracket aside. Back out the rotor holding screw on the face of the rotor with a Philips screwdriver in a counter clockwise direction. Slide the rotor off of the front hub. Rap the rotor with a hammer to loosen if it is stubborn. Repeat this step for both the right and left side.

5
Slide a new rotor onto the front hub, lining up the holes in the rotor with the wheel studs. Replace the holding screw with a Philips screwdriver in a clockwise direction. Re-attach the caliper mounting bracket by turning in the holding bolts with a 10 mm hex head wrench in a clockwise direction.

Remove the bungee cord and slide the brake caliper over the rotor and attach it to the mounting bracket by turning in the holding bolts with a 13 mm wrench in a clockwise direction. Repeat this step for both the right and left side.

6
Install the front wheels back onto the hubs and thread the lug nuts onto the mounting studs with the tapered side facing inwards. Snug the nuts with the lug wrench in a clockwise direction.

Raise the front of the car with the hydraulic jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the hydraulic jack slowly to bring the car to the ground. Remove the hydraulic jack. Tighten the lug nuts with a lug wrench in a clockwise direction.

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 04 Apr 2011, 06:42

If everything goes smoothly this is a very easy job. The e-torx bit is the only unusual tool you'll need. Control arm is not difficult to deal with. If you have an air hammer with the blunt end it may help to get the axle loose from the hub. That is the wildcard. they are either cake or imossible. Have a torch close by just in case.

da7 · Post by **da7** » 04 Apr 2011, 07:47

shakamambutu: what you posted seems to be instructions for the brake rotor only?

hi gilhuly: I just checked my tools I even have the air hammer, the e-torx bits set I just bought few days ago to fix the abs module.... only thing I need is a jack as the one I had (1450kg) seems to be struggling to get the car high enough for the wheels to clear the ground... but as I mentioned, only worry is the control arm? (as I saw in this thread:https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=21543) or is it only a problem if I wanted to replace the bushing??

so back to the original question, how many hours of labour would I be looking to pay if I were to get someone to do it? Or do you think I should just tackle this myself? Never done it before so not too confident...

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2011, 08:07

I don't know the shop rate (hours) on this job.

You can do it yourself.

The control arm part of the job is not difficult. By itself, one control arm is like a 50 minute job. A few bolts, a few whacks with a big hammer, put arm in place, level car, tighten to torque specs. It is an ideal first DIY suspension job: can be hard work due to stuck parts but overall very simple.

In that post you showed, OP specifically tried to replace the control arm bushings. Don't do that. Most people just replace the whole control arm (only get OEM if you do!). And if you follow the write-ups there is no reason for the control arm bushings to get messed up, don't worry about that. If the pinch bolt on the control arm ball joint gives you any trouble (they usually do) then just unhook it at the subframe instead. Just make SURE you raise the wheel or lower the car, before you do the final tightening of the control arm mounting bolts at the subframe. That will save the bushings.

Post by **jblackburn** » 04 Apr 2011, 09:04

1-1.5 hours labor.

If you have air tools, your job will be made SIGNIFICANTLY easier.

da7 · Post by **da7** » 04 Apr 2011, 09:50

thanks erikv11, I'll order the parts ASAP then, hopefully everything would be smooth, not too confident as I've never really done the suspension stuff myself, but if everyone says it's easy, then it must be?

is it still safe to drive right now? It's not really making any noise, only at low speeds, but I can feel the play when the wheel is jacked up...

any idea what torque to tighten the control arm bushing at the subframe? can't find it anywhere?

Post by **jblackburn** » 04 Apr 2011, 11:24

I drove 500 miles on one that was going bad (250 on a long trip; then another week until my part came in).

The noise got progressively worse - scary even, but it held together. Your wheel isn't going to fly off if that's what you're asking; by the sounds of it, you've got nothing to worry about driving for a little bit on it.

Post by **erikv11** » 04 Apr 2011, 12:38

I don't have it with me but found this

download

Says 65 Nm then an additional 120 degrees. That translates to really really tight. It is not necessary to replace the bolts every time you remove the control arms. I would replace them say the third or fourth time.

65 Nm is 48 foot-lbs

Many here would urge you to buy the FAG hub bearing not the cheapie. It is $125 (FCPGroton or eEuroparts.com, etc) but consider how much money you are saving by doing it yourself ...

da7 · Post by **da7** » 05 Apr 2011, 11:17

firstly, I really appreciate the comments, it's extremely helpful... but I've got couple more questions...

jblackburn: so there's no chance of the wheel locking up or the bearing breaking apart? Coz at the moment I'm keeping it in the garage but I'd love to be driving it...

'

erikv11: so the FAG hub is a high quality unit? I was shopping around, all I know is Scan Tech is the one to avoid, but I don't know if SKF or FAG is any good, and I can't find out who makes the original ones, so I was going to painfully buy the original unit....