2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair

Post by **precopster** » 25 Apr 2011, 19:35

Looks like you need another coil. Insert some aluminium foil rolled into a sleeve into the end of the coil boot. This will help the spark jump to the nearest metal earthed object.

It's a fuel test, not a throttle test. The throttle cover reveals the tire valve which is attached to the fuel rail.

The engine is likely flooded with unburned fuel. I would remove all the spark plugs to allow the cylinders to dry while you wait for more parts. If a lot of flooding has occurred you'll need to jump start it with a running vehicle once everything is fitted.

Keep us posted

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 26 Apr 2011, 09:13

If we insert the aluminum in the bad coil and it sparks, can we plug it in and let it operate like that?

Post by **precopster** » 26 Apr 2011, 17:02

It's not a temporary fix. Just a way to test it more effectively.

Sometimes the coils just go bad, the rubber they are composed of no longer acts as an efficient electrical insulator & they arc through their body to earth at the sides of the spark plug holes instead of reaching the spark plug connector. The self diagnostics in the C70 should pick this up if it's happening. It should narrow down which coil is acting up, so don't stress about it yet.

My 960 didn't run well until ALL SIX coils had been replaced, though it did start & run.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 27 Apr 2011, 19:35

Ok progress but not to the finish line yet...
* we replaced the coil and have all 5 coils sparking.
* Car started when wd-40 was sprayed at the air intake. Drove it to a used volvo parts shop. (Car died once when stopped at red light that had car siting on steep uphill slant. 3 guys pushed car to side and we had to let it roll backwards in neutral till it was on a flat surface before the wd-40 trick would work again. fun.)
Car only starts with wd-40 sprayed in intake, once car is shut off, won't start again.
* Cleared misfire codes at shop and AP306 & 307 codes popped up again. went ahead & paid $40 to replace the turbo boost sensor though we doubted that would resolve the no start issue. codes AP306 & AP307 cleared and all lights on dash are now gone. Car runs fairly smooth now, much better than in a long time.

BUT, 2 big problems remaining:
* Car won't start without WD-40 sprayed in air intake valve
* black smoke coming from exhaust now (may be bc we didn't put the air filter back in place properly after spraying the wd-40. we'll play with that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.)

(ALSO, the guy at the shop pressed a little valve that looks like the valve on a tire...not sure if it's on the throttle or not...it's toward the front of the engine at the end of a skinny silver part...fuel came out. This was after the car had been wd-40 started & then driven for about 20 minutes.)

What do you think?

Post by **precopster** » 27 Apr 2011, 20:00

The tire valve thingy the mechanic pressed was what I wanted you to locate.

This indicates fuel pressure, however the fuel pump may be the next thing you need to investigate as the built-in check valve or the fuel pressure regulator may have failed.

Another problem you may have is extremely dirty injectors; this may explain the WD-40 being able to provide an atomised fuel. If the injectors can't create an atomised fuel then starting will be very hard as they will tend to drip the fuel in instead of spray it in a fine mist.

At this point get the car running and put some Techron fuel additive in the fuel tank but make sure you only have 1/4 fuel left so you can get a very concentrated mixture in there. If you have more than 1/4 tank, buy two techron fuel cleaners and add them to the tank. They may be so dirty that you may have to have them sent away for cleaning. You will need to run the tank dry (but don't run it right out) to get a good result.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 29 Apr 2011, 19:37

We can't get the car started again with wd-40 so haven't been able to add the Techron or do the injector cleaning. We're considering replacing the fuel pump/filter this weekend.

Running low on cash now. Think that's a good idea?

Any tips or leads on how to change the fuel pump/filter on a volvo c70 2001?

Polvora79 · Post by **Polvora79** » 29 Apr 2011, 20:36

Fuel pump replacement sucks! you will need a special tool to be able to open it, prices goes from 45 up to 250 dollars.

Post by **precopster** » 29 Apr 2011, 20:58

Pull the fuel rail off (two 10mm bolts) and clean the injectors by soaking them in some carby cleaner and clean them gently with a brush.

Write back to let us know how dirty the tips looked or take photos and post.

At this stage I would get a guage, hook it into the tire pressure thingy and measure the fuel pressure at the rail before replacing the pump.

GeorgiaGirlie · Post by **GeorgiaGirlie** » 30 Apr 2011, 17:38

Dealership said fuel pressure should not be below 200 kpa on my Volvo C70 Turbo (2001), with car key in position II (not started).
Bought a fuel pressure gauge ($34, ugh) and tested.
Results: app. 150 kpa and holding there.
Does this mean new fuel pump?

Post by **precopster** » 30 Apr 2011, 18:31

Hi GeorgiaGirlie, You have answered your own question.

Definitely replace the pump but try not to skimp on quality if you can afford it.

Here is a FCP Groton page that lists some new alternatives:
http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/ ... by_year/51

There may not be a write-up for the C70 pump replacement but you could use a v70/s70 write-up or 850 which should be similar, just don't use a AWD write-up.

The pump number is the same as the 850, 850 turbo, S70 up to 2000, V70 up to 2000 and a host of others so you could try a used one.
I would be going for the Genuine insert if I were trying to save money: http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/p ... e+Volvo%29

You need to be very careful with the old housing and place the new insert in EXACTLY as the old one was.

2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair

Re: 2001 C70 won't start...doing self repair