oil leak Topic is solved

tthom5419 · Post by **tthom5419** » 22 Jan 2006, 14:51

Parked the 97 850 glt wagon today after about a 25 mile ride. Next time out of the house I noticed a big puddle of oil under the passanger side of the engine. Added about two quarts of oil and started the engine to try to find the leak. A good amount of oil startted dripping over the passenger side cv boot but I couldn'y find the origin. Pulled the front cover to expose the cam shaft belt but the leak was not evident there. No slinging oil marks and top of engine is clean. Further inspection shoed oil drip marks leading down the street and into the driveway although no oil light came on. Is there an oil line on the back side of the engine? Any help is welcome.

White850Turbo · Post by **White850Turbo** » 23 Jan 2006, 06:53

Dripping onto the CV axle is a good indicator that you've got a turbo return line seal leak.... a really big one. See here for more details.

tthom5419 · Post by **tthom5419** » 23 Jan 2006, 10:34

Thanks! I was hoping that it was an oil line but was unfamiliar with where they are located on this car. How labor intensive is this job and would you know about how much it would cost at a dealer.

Post by **matthew1** » 23 Jan 2006, 14:16

Easy, actually.

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=2692
see that for more.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » 23 Jan 2006, 18:07

Sorry if this posted twice, but I'm not used to this forum. Left this same thread after I went to Matts repair page. Anyone who wants to put his two cents in is welcome. (This is volvo talk so I guess I should have said Two Dollars instead of 2 cents) and once again thanks.

Had the car towed to an ex-volvo man today. He said the cam seal failed sending oil down the front of the engine dripping onto the cv boot. He said the timing belt was oil soaked serpintine belt soaked and the opposite side cam seal was not seated correctly. Even though the car showed a timing belt change at 69000 on the under hood sticker and the car has 109000 he said that the cam seals were another color than OEM volvo and thought that was to blame. Recomendation is change both seals both belts button it up and pay $475 - $500. OUCH! His other observation was that motor mounts needed to be changed. Two out of three were bad enough to be replaced. $375! OUCH AGAIN! I'm not confident enough to do the timing belt myself ( I need someone to blame if it fails) but how about the mounts. Can they be done in the drive way with normal tools and jacks?

Once Again Thanks For The advice & Help,

tthom5419

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Post by **MadeInJapan** » 23 Jan 2006, 22:34

Typically, the poor man's way of replacing these motor mounts is to put the car on jack stands (you can't use ramps for this, sorry) and then get your floor jack under the oil pan with a piece of wood as a buffer and lift the engine up just enough to get the old ones out and the new ones in. If the so called front motor mount (mounted above the engine in front of the driver's windshield in the round receptacle) is also gone, this is an easy repair and there are a couple of options...the OEM volvo one which is rubber and will fail again or the www.ipdusa.com one that is a polyurethane compound that will last for nearly forever, but is stiffer and gives more vibration through the steering wheel. Good luck! www.fcpgroton.com sells all of these at a considerable savings.

tthom5419 · Post by **tthom5419** » 24 Jan 2006, 19:01

Sounds great. Just push it up a little, slide the old out and slide the new in....... I'm old enough and have broken a few knuckles to know it ain"t that easy in the real world. How about the what if's. Can I reach the bolts without special wrenches? Do I need to worry about stripping bolts or having to retap the frame? What might I find that I should have known about before I lay on my back changeing motor mounts outside in January? Love the volvo just hate fixing it.

tthom5419

Post by **matthew1** » 24 Jan 2006, 21:43

https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/tips.p ... nginemount
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/chat/p ... php?t=4918
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/engine_mount2.php

Those should help.

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 24 Jan 2006, 22:01

Of course it's not as easy as lifting the engine and then slide old off and new on...many times the bolts are seared into the subframe and you have to use PB Blaster to loosen them and there's not much room down there. You also can't lift the engine much...just enough to get these guys out. You don't want to put uneeded stress on the transmission which will still be connected to your engine while you do this. Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? There is a difference in the two as to what yo have to do. First of all, look at the diagrams of the different mounts here: http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo850mounts.htm
Next I can send you a step by step with pictures of how you do it including bolt torque specifications....will need your email addy, and will need to know if your car is auto or stick in order to know which instructions to send.. If your on this site, then I'll zip them and send them once I hear from you the specifics of your car. Or, you can email me: badger36-at-knology.net.
Anywhere where it say to use an engine lift, just use the jack from below the oil pan with a piece of wood.

I just noticed Matthew's post as I was preparing mine. Anyway, all of the links he gave are very good. Read them and the how-to I'm going to send you and together they should make good sense to you. Hope these things help and you can get the job done without too many busted knuckles.

tthom5419 · Post by **tthom5419** » 25 Jan 2006, 05:27

You guys are great. The car is a '97 850 glt wagon with an auto transmission. 109,000 miles. My knuckles say thanks.