'99 S80 T6 Top End Rebuild Pics

[boosted5cyl]

Valves are pretty cheap. Id say fill each valve cavity with WD 40 and see if it leaks out. Change the ones that appear to leak, get the head surfaced & cleaned and call it a day. Ive heard good things about clearwater, but never used them myself.

To clean the block, I used degreaser (might have been simple green or some knock off of it) then on the pistons and soforth I used B12chemtool. The head was steam cleaned at the shop that I had do the resurfacing.

[mlanctot]

Thanks..This weekend I'll clean up the engine. Decided to have the head fixed locally. The gu at the shop said that this engine design is common for this fault. Broken or burnt exhaust valves. I'll keep you posted.

Best place to get gasket kits?

[boosted5cyl]

The only "fault" regarding burnt exhaust valves in the T6 (and T5 incidentally) is owners insisting on using lower octane fuel for extended periods of time. $600 was nearly my entire budget (including buying a air compressor and other tools). You might already know this, but the block is aluminum, so be careful with anything sharp when you are cleaning the gasket surface. While its apart, you can tend to other things too, if you are so inclined:

Clean and Inspect the turbos , I've posted the tolerances on here somewhere.
Set the wastegate actuator pressure, I have info on this posted somewhere too.
Let some B12 soak past the rings to decoke them a little.
Inspect the PCV system. For $30 you might as well replace the PCV tank and seals
Clean the ETM, take your time and avoid wetting any of the electronics or other innards.
Clean\inspect the fuel injectors.
Clean out the turbo plumbing including the intercooler.
Clean out the VVT actuator solenoid.
Remove the crank position sensor and clean the crud off it.
Remove knock sensors, clean contact points on head and sensors.
Inspect the vacuum pipes.
Inspect your wiring: repair, inspect, re-route and re-cover as and where needed.
Drop the tranny pan, change filter and fluid.
Consider making a cam lock tool.

I got my kit from autohausaz.com. Maybe it was a once-off, but someone, somewhere **ked up the head gasket in the kit as well as an oil seal and I ended up buying again locally. I've bought VW stuff from them from them since, but still it pi$$ed me off.... Some places to shop at:

Amazon (dont forget to use the MVS link )
www.autohausaz.com
www.fcpgroton.com
www.rockauto.com
eeuroparts.com

[jorion]

was the head warped when you removed it? and by how much?

[mlanctot]

There was no apparent leaking of the head. I'm sure in the quote it will be cleaned up.
Thanks so much for all the input. We'll clean this thing up. Check turbos etc. I don't think anything is going to happen for a couple of days.

[mlanctot]

Update, Talked to the shop today. All exhaust valves are to be replaced. $600 quote for job.

[moondogy2045]

Nice repair boosted5cyl.

I performed a similar repair to my '92 960 wagon (non-turbo).

You can view the pics here: http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 45a00dd54f

You do not need to have a Facebook account to view.

Best regards,
Moondogy

[precopster]

Can you share with me the timing position that the block photos were taken at? Was it at the crank mark? I'm having a little trouble with re-assembling my 960 engine. All my marks are as per manual (crank mark on oil pump notch etc) and this is the second time I'm re-assembling my B6304 so I've had some practise. Like yours my engine was also with cyls 3 & 4 almost at top when crank mark is lined up.

I am having trouble with what seems to be piston/valve clash while hand turning my engine after a cylinder head change. I haven't mixed up the cams as the exhaust cam has the slot for the cam sensor in the right position (the sensor ring facing down) Both cams were marked from January when I did a valvetrain reseal so marks are correct. Also I took photos of the cam lobes in January when I had them tied with wire to the cam cap and they match my current setup exactly.

The only thing I can think of is that a bolt or other foreign object has entered one of the combustion chambers through the spark plug hole and is fouling (though it didn't happen on my watch I have a four year old who loves to throw things )

One other possibility is the valve guides are too tight on the valves (this head was in dry storage for two years and was last used in an overheated state)

Any advice much appreciated. Mike

[mlanctot]

Top end rebuild completed! Runs great, still need to check for codes. My son is happy again he's got wheels.
Thanks for the write up, it helped.

[boosted5cyl]

Can you share with me the timing position that the block photos were taken at? Was it at the crank mark? I'm having a little trouble with re-assembling my 960 engine. All my marks are as per manual (crank mark on oil pump notch etc) and this is the second time I'm re-assembling my B6304 so I've had some practise. Like yours my engine was also with cyls 3 & 4 almost at top when crank mark is lined up.

I am having trouble with what seems to be piston/valve clash while hand turning my engine after a cylinder head change. I haven't mixed up the cams as the exhaust cam has the slot for the cam sensor in the right position (the sensor ring facing down) Both cams were marked from January when I did a valvetrain reseal so marks are correct. Also I took photos of the cam lobes in January when I had them tied with wire to the cam cap and they match my current setup exactly.

The only thing I can think of is that a bolt or other foreign object has entered one of the combustion chambers through the spark plug hole and is fouling (though it didn't happen on my watch I have a four year old who loves to throw things )

One other possibility is the valve guides are too tight on the valves (this head was in dry storage for two years and was last used in an overheated state)

Any advice much appreciated. Mike

Hey Mike, sorry this is so late. The pistons aren't really at a particular position. I would fill then with a little b12 and move the crank back and forth to get it past the rings.