2003 C70 Fuse box removal

BertW · Post by **BertW** » 15 Jul 2011, 03:48

All,

I have a c70 convertible (2003) and I suspect it has a relay failure. This relay is number 208 as shown in the attached diagram from the C70 wiring diagram (very helpfully provided by this site - thanks for this!).

However, I cannot seem to access this bank of relays. I have taken the cover off the fuse box, and have taken the 3 torx screws out of the inner white fuse holder. This allows me to lift the fuse holder some way, but I cannot pull it out any further.

I have also tried releasing the two large bolts that appear to hold the outer fuse casing in place, but this made no difference.

Does anybody know how you access these relays?

Any help very much appreciated.

B

Post by **Juan62** » 15 Jul 2011, 04:49

giggle it from side-to-side, up and down while pulling up toward you. They are a little hard, but can be done. Did one one a Honda Accord.

BertW · Post by **BertW** » 15 Jul 2011, 05:25

Brilliant, thanks. Will give this a go later.

Just to confirm, it is the inner white fuse holder (that I managed to lift a bit) that we are talking about wiggling and jiggling?

Post by **jimmy57** » 15 Jul 2011, 08:22

or you go inside car and remove the under dash panel and reach up and pull out the relay.
That panel is the lower extension of the one under the hood but it is presented under dash for access there.

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 15 Jul 2011, 08:53

jimmy57 wrote:or you go inside car and remove the under dash panel and reach up and pull out the relay.
That panel is the lower extension of the one under the hood but it is presented under dash for access there.

+1 for under dash access.

BertW · Post by **BertW** » 06 Aug 2011, 14:25

Thanks for the advice. Accessing it from underneath was OK, once all of the wiring looms had been removed out of the way. Sadly the relay was OK, and I suspect the fault now lies within the folding hood control box.

As an aside, has anybody any experience of fault-finding the folding hood control box? The other symptom is that the heated rear screen and heated mirrors are no longer working. I have checked all of the other common components (relays, fuses, wiring looms) and it all looks good. The control box in the back is the only component remaining.

I have taken the PCB out of the box and there is no obvious failure. Plus on power cycle (unplug and replug the power connector) then all of the relays on the PCB cycle round,I guess as part of a start-up self test.

I am really after some schematics or some diagnostics?

The car has been to the Volvo dealers, but all they could say was that "there might be a problem with the folding hood control box" and that I would have to buy another one in order for them to diagnose it further.

Any thoughts welcome!

Thanks in advance.

Post by **jimmy57** » 06 Aug 2011, 14:37

Do you get the tone on completion of roof going up and the windows going up?
The convertible roof module (CRM) needs to see switches and position sensors in correct values in order for it restore the function to heated glass.
That car is late enough to have the waterproofed potentiometers that plagued the first two years but that is not to say the moisture can't in with aging of the seals on the position sensors

yojason · Post by **yojason** » 22 May 2013, 08:13

Hi I have the same problem with the rear dimister. I am wondering if you found a solution. I get no ding and the windows do not lower when the top retracts or closes but the light does not blink to report error with the top. Let me know if you found the problem. thanks

Post by **jimmy57** » 22 May 2013, 10:56

When you do not get completion tone and window lower or raise then the top ECU is not seeing all switches in correct place or the position sensor is not achieving the position stored as end point in that ECU.
There is no reliable alternative other than the use of a volvo scan tool on the top system. The values are stored in the ECU and can be read out and compared to what the live readings are.
My first, have never seen your nor know its history, opinion would be the microswitch that detects the front header latch complete has come loose. They are glued to RH soft top frame. The front frame section that lowers down against windshield frame. If you operate top to the point where that section standing straight up and then move the top away you will see a pair of square microswitches that has stainless steel "fingers" that the latch bar will contact at full extension and full retraction.
The microswitches can be glued to frame with quick-set epoxy. It is important the switch goes back where it belongs.
The fault indication is only active for some types of faults. Faults that also could be caused by incomplete operation by operator of vehicle only give no completion ding and possibly dinging when you drive off.