Air Pump

[erikv11]

Yes, for now you can simply unplug the air pump, leave the other plugs connected there. I think one is the fan relay? Anyway, you can leave it that way (unplugged) forever, or take it all out, to free up a little space under the hood. A lot of people leave it all together for at least a couple weeks to make sure there is no CEL.

I can't answer for sure about which wire runs the air pump, without looking at my car and removed parts. And I am away from my car for a couple days. But I do remember that it was not entirely obvious which plug traces back to the air pump.

[IVIUSTANG]

Use the Volvospeed writeup. It is the original, it is totally accurate, and very clear. I am not sure why the MVS link showed up in my post, I did not put it there. But note the VS link is mainly writte for Mortronic 4.4 cars (all S70s are 4.4, only some 850s are).

For your car, I was assuming it was Motronic 4.4 (the engine management system) but now that I have looked it up, it is either 4.3 or 4.4. You need to find out, to do so write down your VIN and go to this site:

http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/199 ... n1997.html

Assuming the car is Motronic 4.4, then you need to bridge A32 to A37. I recommend bridging the wires, that is how I did it, but you can bridge the ECU if you want to.

If your car is 4.3 then you need to bridge the other pins but there may be other issues, I am less clear about the SAS delete on a 4.3 car.

You can tell the polarity (direction) of the diode by which side has the bar painted on it. The drawn diagram in the Volvospeed link shows the polarity pretty clearly.

It's funny you say that the Volvospeed how to was "the original." This is not the case at all. My tutorial: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31536 was posted on July 29,2010. The one at Volvospeed: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... with-pics/ was posted on November 17,2010. I have actually seen several how tos on the SAS removal and they are all based on a concept that Lucky at IPD originally posted at Volvospeed but never really posted a proper how to on.

I would never have wasted my time making a writeup on a job that had already been covered, the truth is there was no proper how tos with steps and pictures prior to mine. I believe there is over 4 now, which is good!

- Jesse

[erikv11]

It's funny you say that the Volvospeed how to was "the original." This is not the case at all. My tutorial: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums ... =1&t=31536 was posted on July 29,2010. The one at Volvospeed: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/topic/14 ... with-pics/ was posted on November 17,2010. I have actually seen several how tos on the SAS removal and they are all based on a concept that Lucky at IPD originally posted at Volvospeed but never really posted a proper how to on.

I would never have wasted my time making a writeup on a job that had already been covered, the truth is there was no proper how tos with steps and pictures prior to mine. I believe there is over 4 now, which is good!

- Jesse

That's too bad you would never write up something that was already out there, because it is a great benefit to provide additional writeups, and improve on the old ones. For example, it is great that early on you had this working for your car and got people to help you accurately write it up. But even though you made a wonderful contribution, MVS could really use an improved writeup. Deleting the SAS is much better figured out now, and your writeup directs the user to the wrong ECU pin.

So please don't be offended but here is why I sent OP to VS: your writeup has nowhere near the information in the Volvospeed link, so the user can't determine how to properly do the mod - your writeup mentions nothing about Motronic, so the reader doesn't know which cars it will work for, they are left in limbo if theirs isn't the same car as yours. Yours describes one location to perform the mod (ECU), the VS link describes two options (ECU or wiring). Yours is short and sweet with little supporting information, the VS ink is long and rambling with all of the information behind the fix. Finally, yours tells the user to use pin B38, but that is the wrong pin to use for your car (A37 is the preferred pin). OP in this thread drives an 850, you drive an S70, and for this case I think the VS link is much more useful.

As for originality, the VS link is the definitive source, as explained in its first 2 sentences. Along with very clear instructions of 2 different ways to implement the fix, the main post summarizes the development of the technique, overwhelmingly by VS users, across 3 threads beginning with Lucky's linked, original VS post from April 2010, and through the realization that A37 is a better choice than B38.