DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Rear Shock Absorber (BilsteinTC) & Shock

[cn90]

1. So, the one nut I had break off - it's not a big deal at all - is it? I mean, I don't HAVE to weld the new one in place....do I?

2. The bolts (3) I got out, I cleaned up with a brush + cleaner, then applied anti-seize, and put'em back in. Won't be finishing the job till tomorrow or next day. Do you think I should just go get all new bolts and nuts (don't care about the cost)?

3. The bolt & nut where the nut's weld broke...I don't need to worry about that for the next day or so do I? AND I was planning on cutting off the old nut or bolt head with my dremel -- sounds good right?

#1. Don't worry, use another nut, don't weld it. Just get another person to help hold it.

#2. This is what I have: 3 old bolts and 1 new bolt (since I broke one bolt). It is now almost 2 years later, zero problems.
These bolts don't support much, they are just there to help hold the shocks in place and absorb the occasional jolt from the road.

#3. You may not need to dremel anything; use a new nut and get it over with.

Don't over-analyze it LOL.

[LamboSE5]

Thanks for the help. Should go well!

One other thing though. I was just looking at my shocks (KYB) and the directions/instructions, they show a set of hands expanding and compressing (with direction arrows) the shock when out of the box to check it's functioning I assume?
Well I cannot budge the shocks at all. They are in compressed state, I can't pull out on either end/expand them - should I be able too?

I always over analyze

How are your bilsteins doing man?

[cn90]

The Bilstein shock came with a tie-down, once I cut it it expands. Compressing the new Bilstein shock is very very hard, it requires a lot of force. That is normal. Make sure you remove all packing material, strap from your KYB shocks.

My Bilstein TC is doing great 2 years later, zero problems. Solid and very controlled ride.

[songzunhuang]

Thanks for this write up. I attacked my rear shocks on my V70 T5 wagon today. I replaced them with Bilsteins and also got new upper mounts from IPD. BTW the IPD upper shock mounts came with new bolts and nuts. I guess this is in case you break yours. I gotta say that I feel a bit blessed as I had none of the stuck bolt or nut problems that many folks were warning everyone about. I guess being a California car all it's life, there just wasn't that much gunk on mine. I only had to use Liquid wrench on one upper mount bolt and even then it was just because I felt like it because it had a bit of friction.

I was able to complete my job in about 2 hours. The worst part was disassembling the back of the wagon to get to the upper mounts. I had the optional 3rd row child seat and cargo cover installed. It took a while to get all that out of the back of the car. Everything else was a breeze. In fact things were going so well that I decided to flush the steering fluid and rotate the tires all in the same afternoon.

Thanks.

[xHeart]

After reading both Front and Rear DIY from cn90 (fountain of thanks), and equally stellar posts of doers, it will take me few months to complete struts and shocks replacement on our 1997-850 Sedan, culminating with 4 tires replacement, and Wheel Alignment before Fall 2012.

Starting from Rear, and would work my way up to Front, reading pertinent posts along the way. Here are few pictures, and related questions to get me started. TIA

...back seat is folded down, looking inside the trunk, I believe, rear shocks are where arrow points, Yes?

MVS_4018.jpg (780.46 KiB) Viewed 2624 times

...do i remove this nut, it looks special, will i undo more than what is visible?

MVS_4019.jpg (555.53 KiB) Viewed 2624 times

...this T30 holds, and locks the upper of the backrest. again, looks special type, does it need special tool and technique?

MVS_4020.jpg (546.56 KiB) Viewed 2624 times

[cn90]

...If your bolt head is above the mounting hole recess, CUT the head of the bolt off using a Dremel tool and cutoff wheel. Now cut a notch in the end exposed bolt shaft. You now have a screw head that can be tightened with a screw driver all the way through the nut and fall out the bottom. This process took about 15 minutes....

Brilliant tip. Thanks for this trick!

[Adler]

So I've got new Bilstein TCs and uro mounts in from IPD, planning on doing this over the weekend. No one has mentioned re-using the bushings from the lower mount. Is that a given? I was kind of expecting the new shocks to come with that but they didn't. Is it worth getting beforehand? Would the average auto store carry that?

[MoVolvos]

So I've got new Bilstein TCs and uro mounts in from IPD, planning on doing this over the weekend. No one has mentioned re-using the bushings from the lower mount. Is that a given? I was kind of expecting the new shocks to come with that but they didn't. Is it worth getting beforehand? Would the average auto store carry that?

That is kind of strange? I've changed quite a few Struts and Shocks over the years including a set of 4 Bilsteins on a 95 E420 and I don't ever recall having to purchase bushings separately ever. Need to call IPD or Bilstein direct as it maybe faster. One time the KYB Rep worked with a Local Distributor for an exchange even though it was purchased from a Mail Order Company. Purchased a set of 4 KYB's and felt one front Strut was softer than the other.

Blessings,
BKM
-

[Adler]

Scratch that! I think I took a very brief look at them and thought there would be bushings inside the sleeve since it has this taper on either side. I must have been all goofy from two stroke fumes and adrenaline because I had just ridden home through crazy traffic.