Any special tools needed to replace control arms?

[dbm123]

I have never dealt with the 4 bolt versions, I think they are almost exclusively on the 4WD models. From what I have read on VADIS Wrenchinjoe is correct, the motor mount needs to be unbolted and the engine jacked up to gain access to the nuts on the inside frame rail for the 4 bolt style.

...Lee

The C70 has the 4 bolt control arms also. I have never replaced them myself, but I have hear that they are a real pain in the rear.

I just want to know if these statements are correct. I have a V70 GLT that is not AWD, so I have the 2 bolt control arms? Need to know because I need to order some....

[jblackburn]

A FWD V70 has the 2-bolt control arms.

[dbm123]

OK, well I'm giving it a shot. I can't see paying $400 labor for this repair....

[jblackburn]

The hardest part (for me) is just getting the knuckle loose from the wheel. Since you're replacing them anyway, a good hard smack with something like a small sledge should do the trick. They also make little pickle fork things that may help you out.

http://www.google.com/products/catalog? ... CFQQ8gIwAg

[LamboSE5]

This is a good "How-To" for you. It should help you get the job done and no, you don't need any special tools.

HOW TO: Replace Worn Control Arms

Thank you for that link!!

[LamboSE5]

I've had Scantech and Meyle both go bad in less than a year. Went back with Genuine and still holding up.

Not happy to hear that. Just got fcp's little front suspension kit.
It has Meyle HD control arms and Meyle HD sway bar links... someone posted that Meyel HD is good.

[LamboSE5]

I just got both my control arms installed, it took me 2 days. I have a few tips for those in snowy climates where they use salt on the roads.
The bolt that keeps the ball joint in place will be so rusted that (in my case) an angle grinder was needed to cut off the control arm and cut the bolt in three spots. I then used a big hole punch and a hammer to punch out the shaft of the bolt that remained. It took me about 3 to 5 minutes of tap-tap-taping on it for it to budge loose and then finally come out. An angle grinder can be used to cut the bolts without cutting any other of the parts (I nicked a few here and there but not bad).
Oh, and also, I was using PBlaster on it for *days* and the parts weren't budging, so out came the angle grinder.

Great to hear just before I attempt mine....

I live on a rock of salt..

How worried should I be about the whole not torqing down while still in air, bounce car first, etc factors, like lining up the arm with the door seam(?) as Ozark mentioned?

[Ozark Lee]

I just got both my control arms installed, it took me 2 days. I have a few tips for those in snowy climates where they use salt on the roads.
The bolt that keeps the ball joint in place will be so rusted that (in my case) an angle grinder was needed to cut off the control arm and cut the bolt in three spots. I then used a big hole punch and a hammer to punch out the shaft of the bolt that remained. It took me about 3 to 5 minutes of tap-tap-taping on it for it to budge loose and then finally come out. An angle grinder can be used to cut the bolts without cutting any other of the parts (I nicked a few here and there but not bad).
Oh, and also, I was using PBlaster on it for *days* and the parts weren't budging, so out came the angle grinder.

Great to hear just before I attempt mine....

I live on a rock of salt..

How worried should I be about the whole not torqing down while still in air, bounce car first, etc factors, like lining up the arm with the door seam(?) as Ozark mentioned?

Getting the control arm to, more or less, ride height is critical or it will tear the bushings out where they bolt to the sub-frame and cause a premature failure.

Even if you torqued them down in the lowered position you can always go back and do things over again. I normally buy new bolts for everything that is stretch torqued when I replace things but you are likely OK to re-use them if they were just recently changed.

I changed control arms on one of my cars (actually I have changed control arms on all them except the XC) only to have an axle crapping out a month or so later and I re-used the bolts after the axle change with no problems thus far.

The bolts (and nuts) are dirt cheap if you can get them from a local dealer or have time to wait for mail order and it is always preferable to just replace them with new and go through the torque procedure again.

...Lee

[LamboSE5]

Sorry for the quick question but I need this done now

what are the torque values for the control arm bolts please? and where can I find torque values?

[burnout8488]

Just did my 4bolt control arms. No need to lift the engine at all. Use a 17mm box end wrench and you will have enough room to access the bolts on both sides.

One bolt on the passenger side is obstructed. Put the wrench on that bolt. There is no room for your hand to crack it off counterclockwise, as it will be factory tight. Use a screwdriver or pry bar as a lever underneath the wrench by prying using the subframe as a place to rest the screwdriver on. This will crack the bolt free, I hope it described it well enough.

The control arm bushings will be tight, so you won't be able to thread the bolts straight into them as they will be at an incorrect angle. Use a vise grip to bend the bushing into the correct angle so the bolt can be threaded in straight. When you see the arms, you'll understand. Make sure the ball joint is bolted into the control arm at this point before you bolt the arm into the subframe.