Reomving Turbocharger from 2000 S80 T6

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 23 Aug 2011, 06:41

Could anyone provide step by step instruction or some points? How hard is it? Thanks.

Mark27 · Post by **Mark27** » 23 Aug 2011, 13:47

I do not know how to upload documents so here's a copy and paste job from chiltondiy. Sorry the Pictures will not paste:
6-Cylinder Engines
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
Remove or disconnect the following:
Engine stabilizer brace
Air charge pipe
Air intake pipe
Heat deflector plate
Drain the cooling system
Remove or disconnect the following:
Rear Side Impact Protection System (SIPS) member
Heated oxygen (HO2S) wiring connectors
Catalytic converters
Right half shaft
Turbo coolant pipes
Turbo oil lines
Turbocharger

Mounting bolt locations for 6-cylinder turbo

Click to Enlarge

To install:

Install or connect the following:
Turbocharger and tighten the fasteners to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)
Turbo oil lines. Tighten to 28 ft. lbs. (38 ft. lbs).
Turbo coolant pipes
Catalytic converters with new gaskets. Tighten fasteners to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Rear SIPS member. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Heated oxygen (HO2S) wiring connectors
Right half shaft
Heat deflector plate. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
Air intake pipe
Air charge pipe
Engine stabilizer brace. Tighten the bolts at the suspension turrets to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Tighten the engine bracket bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm).
Fill the cooling system.
Start the engine and check for leaks.
Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions Section.

Remove or disconnect the following:

Engine stabilizer brace

Air charge pipe

Air intake pipe

Heat deflector plate

Drain the cooling system

Remove or disconnect the following:

Rear Side Impact Protection System (SIPS) member

Heated oxygen (HO2S) wiring connectors

Catalytic converters

Right halfshaft

Turbo coolant pipes

Turbo oil lines

Turbocharger

Mounting bolt locations for 6-cylinder turbo

Click to Enlarge

To install:

Install or connect the following:

Turbocharger and tighten the fasteners to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Turbo oil lines. Tighten to 28 ft. lbs. (38 ft. lbs)

Turbo coolant pipes

Catalytic converters with new gaskets. Tighten fasteners to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Rear SIPS member. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).

Heated oxygen (HO2S) wiring connectors

Right halfshaft

Heat deflector plate. Tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm)

Air intake pipe

Air charge pipe

Engine stabilizer brace. Tighten the bolts at the suspension turrets to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Tighten the engine bracket bolt to 59 ft. lbs. (80 Nm)

Fill the cooling system.

Start the engine and check for leaks.

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 24 Aug 2011, 01:52

Thanks. Looks very difficult to do for me...

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 24 Aug 2011, 19:08

Its not too hard, its just "fiddly" but it also depends which one. So...Which one? Are you replacing a full unit?

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 25 Aug 2011, 00:30

My S80 is leaking oil in many places. My mechanic thinks turbochargers are leaking but did not recommend work since it costs too much by his labor rate. Besides I have cam seals leak and front crankshaft leak. The big one is from the turbocharger(s), according to him. He thinks they should be replaced. (Not sure whether it is from one or both.) I agree.

If I can keep the car in my backyard and remove piece by piece, I may be able to do it. If anyone could show basic steps with photos, it would be a big help. I was able to do spark plug change based on instruction from this website (thanks!)

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 25 Aug 2011, 10:43

Have you serviced the PCV system yet? If not, dont bother doing any oil-leak related work until that is taken care of. Clogged PCV can cause oil leaks like you mention. If its still clogged, you will end up re-doing all of your work as they will continue to leak! Checkout the repair section for the PCV service. Then we can come back to the turbos. You may still need to replace some seals, but at least with the PCV service done you wont blow them again!

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 25 Aug 2011, 15:26

Yes. But I will double check. (How do I do that?)

About 2-3 years ago (15000 miles ago), there were smokes/fumes coming out from the top of engine. So I took it to the dealership. They did the PCV cleaning service for $300. So I am assuming PCV is OK.

This time, there was no fume/smoke coming out. My car is being driven as strong as ever. I do not feel any lack of power. I do not smell any oil burning. I do not see any smoke anywhere.

It is just that oil leaks in many places. Several oil drops happen whenver I park the car. I am puzzled. Accoring to the mechanic, more drops come from the turbocharger side.

Post by **boosted5cyl** » 25 Aug 2011, 21:18

OK, so recheck the PCV to be sure (glove over diptstick test). I think next step is to get some brake cleaner\degreaser and clean the turbos and piping. Find out exactly where the oil is leaking from. Most common place is the oil return pipe either on the turbo or block end. In that case, you wont need to remove the turbox, so fingers crossed thats all it is. I think its pretty rare for an actual turbo unit to leak oil externally without anything getting into the engine in some way as well.

From what you describe I think you are in pretty good shape, probably just need to replace the oil return gaskets and orings. Parts <$10, fiddly job though.

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 25 Aug 2011, 23:58

Thank you. I will try it.

sparro · Post by **sparro** » 27 Aug 2011, 17:32

Yesterday, after driving a while, I parked the car idling. I took out the oil dipstick. There was no smoke coming out. Then I put my foot on accelerator. Then white smoke came out. Also only when I put on accelerator, white smoke came out of the exhaust pipe (muffler) in the rear. I am not sure whether this is the sign for clogged PCV. I would appreciate anyone's comment. Thanks.