won't start after head gasket replacement?

Paul Orr · Post by **Paul Orr** » 04 Sep 2011, 22:44

Hi Guys
I have a 1996 VoIvo 850 turbo-california-USA-w/130+_miles
I just did a head gasket replacement via Matthews Volvo site tutorial and it went well, perfect in fact some hassle but not bad. But when I tried to start it, it won't start? Fuel pumps seems to working I can hear it when I use key just before the starter goes, I have rebuilt the PVC system including new rubber 90's and hoses, I have tried to put the spark plug wires in several positions 1-3-4-5-2 & 1-3-5-4-2, yes the coil is connected, yes I have spark, yes I can smell fuel, I even turned it over to see fuel coming out at the fuel rail, and can smell after removing a spark plugs, I have removed and put the fuel injectors back together with upper/lower and rail rubber spacer. I am Stumped and frustrated any suggestion would be appreciated?

Post by **JDS60R** » 04 Sep 2011, 23:14

recheck cam timing

Paul Orr · Post by **Paul Orr** » 04 Sep 2011, 23:30

Thanks JDS60R I will do first thing in the morning, However I did have all marks lined up before putting back together? I even rotated the engine several time to check nothing was hitting on the interior and again later to make sure all new oil and coolants where moving in new parts before trying to star it up? in all cases leaving it right on the marks.

Post by **jimmy57** » 04 Sep 2011, 23:53

Does it crank over faster than normal (like the spark plugs are not installed)? If so, keep reading.
The tappets can expand while out of engine and hold valves open a bit. The compression will be low and it will not run and ends up wetting plugs. With plugs removed and ignition off, crank engine over two one minute periods. It will clean out fuel and the cycling of tappets is what is needed to get them to compress and let valves close.
Jumper starter at starter or use the jumper terminal that is a green red wire hanging out of harness just behind air filter housing.
Apply 12V to get starter to run.

Post by **Ozark Lee** » 05 Sep 2011, 08:26

The Haynes Manual is dead wrong on plug wires and even the factory manual has the rotation backwards.

This is correct:

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... plugs.html

...Lee

Paul Orr · Post by **Paul Orr** » 05 Sep 2011, 11:33

Ozark Lee wrote:The Haynes Manual is dead wrong on plug wires and even the factory manual has the rotation backwards.

This is correct:

http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how ... plugs.html

...Lee

Thanks Lee I have the wiring in the same positions.

Paul Orr · Post by **Paul Orr** » 05 Sep 2011, 11:44

Thanks guy's will check the cam timing while rotating the engine with the spark plugs out hopefully this will cycle the tappets and air out the fuel at the same time? Speaking of having the spark plugs out yesterday when confirming that the spark was there I had removed a wire and plug to see spark from a plug as well and the engine did for the first time blow a little flame out for the first time? Perhaps I am not getting air? Can the Idel air unit effect it like this?

Post by **JDS60R** » 05 Sep 2011, 12:01

The idle air valve can allow some air to pass through but usually not enough that you wouldn't hear a few strokes firing.
Perform the cycling test that Jimmy57 stated and check the cam timing for good measure. Jimmy57's advice is usually the fix. His experience and training is a benefit to the whole site. Please post what you did to fix it so the next person who has these troubles can benefit from your experience.

Paul Orr · Post by **Paul Orr** » 05 Sep 2011, 23:43

Hi guy's
OK I did go back and check the cam timing, the firing order and spark plugs wires as described by Lee which was all good. After turning the engine over manually to get it back to TDC top dead center with all mark in the right spots. I removed all the spark plugs and cleaned them up. I removed the distributor cap and found that I had the rotor 180 degrees off of the number 1 position? So I removed it discovered that the rotor can be put in only one position because in has a notching system which seats it but that the metal flange that attaches to the intake cam which is also notched can be installed in the right position or like mine can be installed at 180 degree's off which is the wrong position. After reversing it and putting everything back together it fired up with a simple turn of the key.

Thanks and props to those who answered my questions!!!!!!

All very helpful when your frustrated.

Still need some advise though.
After letting run for a while I notice several things my timing belt seems to be edging over towards the cover? not centering like I know it should be? is there an adjustment for this?

My second and biggest problem of the day is I notice new fresh oil leaking from what looks like the top part of the engine on the timing belt side? perhaps from a cam seal? or when I put the top cam engine cover on only used liquid sealer not any gasket or silicon? although no other leakage any where else. At first it was hard to see because its behind the back timing belt cover? I did not see any oil under the oil pump which was my first fear? any suggestion are appreciated. Paul

5mildtn · Post by **5mildtn** » 18 Apr 2019, 10:49

I had the same issue after replaced head and gasket. However, it started first try and ran for about 2 minutes. I shut it down to look for leaks etc, found a water leak and car would not start again. I pushed it into the garage and replaced hose. Good spark, but replaced all 5 plugs precautionary, still good spark and 55 PSI on fuel rail. Not sure where to go from here???