Battery Drain Problem

gilhuly · Post by **gilhuly** » 02 Oct 2011, 14:03

The draw should be a lot less than 150 mA, more like 50mA

Post by **Pauloil** » 02 Oct 2011, 19:35

Madhelpermonkey wrote:Took out the glovebox bulb and had a good drop in current draw... I was doing it the same way you indicated pauloil so I was good ther. I just get the scales mixed up on the digital meter...my only nalaog was very easy to read range wise.

on my $2.00 harbor freight Meter <had a coupon>I put the red lead in the top slot per instruction and set in on 10A DC and the meter now reads 0.03 where it used to read 0.15

Shiloh...battery was replaced months before the lock but I hear you loud and clear... I think at least there is a stuck microswitch in the assy and I am going to hiythem all with contact cleaner and see if anything changes..if not i may try and pull another one and the bone yard.

Still need to pull the rest of the fuses one by one to see where my 0.03 is going. I have no aligator clips so it as an arduous process measure , set down leads, pull fuse, measure, replace fuse, repeat, repeat, repeat.

you're fine: anything below 0.10 or 0.15 OK

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 04 Oct 2011, 18:16

Howdee...I pulled all the fuese tonight...one by one. None of them killed the draw. About the draw...

i am using a cheap HF digital meter set to 10 amp and the reading jump betwee 0.02 and 0.03..which I read as 20 or 30 milliamps. I think that is ok but if the fuses dont kill the draw them its either going through the ignition swx or something else. Is the alarm relay always hot through the ign swx?

From your feedback I see this appears to be an acceptable current but where is it going? How long cant a I wait between period use since the principle drive is at school?

Post by **Pauloil** » 05 Oct 2011, 05:32

ahh, the decimel point I think what is OK is 10-15mA, not 100-150. so if your's is 30mA, are you still having problems with low batt. voltage? the current can leak elsewhere to a bad alternator, to relays, etc. yes, the alarm stays hot, prolly not thru ignition.

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 06 Oct 2011, 11:41

I just reconnected the battery yesterday so we'll see. I really want to know where it goes. To find if its going to the alternator would I just DC the alternator hot lead and take a current measurement just like on the negative side ...taking course no to touch ground?

What relays would see current with the key out? How do I track them? The diagram I have in haynes doesnt show much that doesnt go through the ign swx.

Post by **Pauloil** » 06 Oct 2011, 12:01

requires a scope to check alt out fully, not just what they do at car parts stores. this has been discussed in past on this forum, and would require some looking. try reading here about the relays as well. happy searching!

Madhelpermonkey · Post by **Madhelpermonkey** » 07 Oct 2011, 09:14

Thanks very much hope to search more this weekend.

Rocketman · Post by **Rocketman** » 07 Oct 2011, 13:15

On my 850 (GLT 2.5 l 5 cyl 125 kW, 1993) the drain was due to the trunk lamp that didn't go off when the lid was closed due to a faulty switch in the trunk power lock. You could check leaving the ski opening on the rear seat uncovered - when you see the light with all doors closed this may be your fault. I just used the second switch on the trunk top to disable the light manually and had no trouble since. Normal drain should be < 50 mA - there should not be much than the radio, the clock and the RC to be powered but I never have measured (no RC opening on my Volvo...)

Good kuck,

PJ

Post by **BEJinFbk** » 07 Oct 2011, 18:55

Madhelpermonkey wrote: The diagram I have in haynes doesnt show much that doesnt go through the ign swx.

The entire Volvo wiring book for your car can be downloaded here:
https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/volvo-wiring-diagrams/

Chriss · Post by **Chriss** » 17 Oct 2011, 08:06

Thanks for the diagrams link. I have not had anymore dead car to dtae but also am driving at least once a week now. . BTW Rocketman he trunk bulb was removed by the previous owner so no drain there.

I am wondering if a be central locking relay can cause a draw? I am having those odd locking symptoms as well. recall that all lock unlock at the first turn of the key instead of the drivers door on first turn then the rest on the second turn. I reprogrammed my remotes yesterday to get them working again and find the same thing happens when using the remote...nothing happens on first push by I hear a sound in the dash then all doors unlock on second push...curious. I saw a thread with a diagram showing location of those relays...as soon as i find it and a bit more information i may grab a relay at the bone yard up the road...thoughts?

Battery Drain Problem

Re: Battery Drain Problem