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AWD maintenance Need

This topic is in the MVS Volvo Repair Database » How to Maintain Your AWD Volvo's Driveshaft
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jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

The driveshaft from angle gear to viscous coupling needs to have the CV joints lubed by 100K miles or there is a great likelihood you will end up replacing the whole shaft assembly or at least the front joint if available.

It is not a hard job but there are precautions.
  • Safely lift car with adequate room to work underneath at front and rear.
  • Clean out the 6mm hex cap screws that hold CV joints to flanges at each end. Dirt collects in the cavity and bit will not go in deep enough to prevent stripping bolts!
  • Remove the rear strap below driveshaft. (maybe XC90 only)
  • Remove the 6 bolts at front CV joint and rear CV joint. On earliest in this series there may be balancing bolts. This is noted by seeing some of the bolts threads sticking through flange by a few mm. If you find this then you MUST mark the CV joint to flange and then remove bolts and keep them sorted to go back where found. I suggest a piece of cardboard with 1 thru 6 in a circle and push bolt in next to the number and reference your mark on your cardboard, basically a map of bolt location.
  • Remove the brackets for exhaust pipe at rear axle area so the pipe can be pushed aside easily for withdrawing driveshaft.
  • At the midpoint of the driveshaft there is a bracket secured to floor with two bolts each side. Up above the exhaust pipe you will see two bolts, these hold the support bearing carrier to the main bracket. Remove the two bolts. I find it easier to remove the 4 bolts for main bracket as the bearing will pass by the heat shielding easier if the bearing is lower. The bracket doesn't have to come off completely.
  • Be careful when removing shaft, watch fingers! The shaft slides out the rear and tying the exhaust pipe over with wire may make it much easier.
  • Avoid letting the shaft flop and bump around. The center joint has a bumper of sorts but it can be damaged by rough handling.
  • Once removed get newspaper or other to place where each joint is on a long table or the floor.
  • You can re-pack the joints on ends easily. A cap will tap off without much trouble from the end of the joint with a small hammer and a drift. Inside will likely be caked dried grease and the irregular shaped cap seal. The seal may be out of place. I do not recommend you try to use solvent to get it clean. Residue of solvent may foul the new grease. Dig out all you easily get to and then use a latex or nitrile glove and pack the joint with CV joint grease. This is available at most auto supply stores but usually you have to ask. It will come in a squeeze tube or in a pack like a large catchup package. I think 3 ounces per CV joint is ample. I get a portion of grease in palm of glove and push cupped palm over joint and push. Then clean the end up and fit the rubber seal around the CV joint at the ridge with the humps placed to be to the inside of where bolt will pass through. Tap cap back on with a bolt in one of the holes so the bolts will pass through for installation to flange later.
  • Repeat on the other end.
  • Now clean the center joint bolts and mark the center joint to that flange in some way you can assure you put it back as you found it. The whole shaft is balanced assembled and changing it could give you vibration.
  • Hold the shaft and remove the bolts and then tap the CV joint out of flange and then service it like the others.
  • The bolts holding shaft together and holding CV joints to flanges on AOC and angle gear tighten in two steps to 20 ft-lbs.
  • The first step is every bolt to 7.5 ft-lbs and then every bolt to 20 ft-lbs.
The front joint is a guaranteed to have extremely hardened grease by 100K, the middle CV joint to a lesser degree and the rear usually has grease that is still serviceable. The initial problem from lack of this service will be chirps or a bumping noise on acceleration. It will progress to a vibration when the joint gets dry and balls wear and joint fails.

Have fun, wear grungy clothes you aren't terribly attached to.
Note: this procedure is written to be applicable to all AWD Volvo models and there will be some minor differences depending on model. For instance the center joint in shaft is a conventional U joint on earliest models with a middle CV joint being used on later models. The shafts with conventional U joint in the middle position do not require service. There is no way to lubricate the U joint and if it fails you will have to replace the whole driveshaft.
Last edited by jimmy57 on 20 Jan 2011, 07:47, edited 1 time in total.

holler1
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Post by holler1 »

Jimmy,
This is a great writeup. I've dealt with the propshaft and have some pictures I may add to the thread when I get a little more time.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

jblackburn
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Post by jblackburn »

Let me know when you add the pictures, and I will add this topic to the repair database. Pictures always make the RD summary page just a little more fancy. :wink:
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

I attempted to place this in the appropriate forums but I don't see it in them. I wrote it based on an XC90 repair and edited it a little but I can edit it more with the particulars of the different model ranges.
On 1st gen s70/v70xc/v70 the middle joint is not a CV joint for instance. Some of the others have a regular u-joint in the middle also.
Last edited by jimmy57 on 19 Jan 2011, 10:12, edited 1 time in total.

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BEJinFbk
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Post by BEJinFbk »

Great write up, sir.
Add a few pics and this would be a great add to the repair section.
In fact, it would be pretty cool if there were a sub section for AWD... :roll:

:mrgreen: Thank You, Jim !
'98 V70 R - Well Equipped for Life Up North... ;)

holler1
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Post by holler1 »

I'm going to add some photos to complement jimmy's "how to" post above. First a photo of the propshaft off the car just to get an idea what it looks like. Then a few shots of the CV joints at each end and the center bearing and u-joint. Finally some shots of the propshaft on the car and removal. The rebuilt shaft is from Colorado Driveshaft.
wide shot of entire propshafts- old and rebuilt- 98 V70 AWD
wide shot of entire propshafts- old and rebuilt- 98 V70 AWD
front end of propshafts
front end of propshafts
center bearing of propshafts
center bearing of propshafts
closeup photo of CV joint on propshaft
closeup photo of CV joint on propshaft
propshaft connected to bevel gear
propshaft connected to bevel gear
propshaft connected to viscous coupler at rear
propshaft connected to viscous coupler at rear
propshaft center bearing and support
propshaft center bearing and support
removing rear of propshaft
removing rear of propshaft
sliding center of propshaft out past support and exhaust system
sliding center of propshaft out past support and exhaust system
flange to bevel gear with propshaft off
flange to bevel gear with propshaft off
flange to VC with propshaft out
flange to VC with propshaft out
Last edited by jblackburn on 19 Jan 2011, 21:24, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: put your pictures in the right order (I think)
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

holler1
Posts: 756
Joined: 25 Jun 2008, 21:32
Year and Model:
Location: West Virginia

Post by holler1 »

jablackburn,
Yes, you got the right order. Great job, thanks.
1998 Volvo V70 AWD 165000-R muffler, HD endlinks, boost gauge
2008 Ford Fusion AWD 107000
2000 Ford Ranger 4wd 172000
1991 Toyota Camry 160000#1
Previous: 1982 Volvo DL (240) 160000
1998 Tacoma, Fords (6), Dodge, Montero,
GTO, Sunbeam Alpine, VW Dasher
---

jblackburn
MVS Moderator
Posts: 14042
Joined: 08 Jun 2008, 15:54
Year and Model: 1998 S70 T5
Location: Alexandria, VA
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Post by jblackburn »

Thanks to both of you - it should be added into the repair database within the next few days.
'98 S70 T5
2016 Chevy Cruze Premier


A learning experience is one of those things that says, "You know that thing you just did? Don't do that."

mercuic: Long live the tractor motor!

VolvoMonkey
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Joined: 31 Aug 2011, 01:58
Year and Model: V70 XC 1999
Location: Mountain View, CA

Post by VolvoMonkey »

VADIS shows the use of a counter-hold when removing these bolts. Is this necessary? If so, any suggestions on a home-brewed solution?
jimmy57 wrote:
  • Remove the 6 bolts at front CV joint and rear CV joint. On earliest in this series there may be balancing bolts. This is noted by seeing some of the bolts threads sticking through flange by a few mm. If you find this then you MUST mark the CV joint to flange and then remove bolts and keep them sorted to go back where found. I suggest a piece of cardboard with 1 thru 6 in a circle and push bolt in next to the number and reference your mark on your cardboard, basically a map of bolt location.

jimmy57
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Post by jimmy57 »

The counterhold is safer than a pry bar or large screwdriver wedged between the bolt heads but not detrimental in any other way.
The torquing of the bolts requires a steady counterhold but these are torque to yield bolts and the torque is not crucial nor can it be accomplished without special tools.

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