P2 Cars: Blower Motor 31320393 Replacement (How To) Topic is solved

Post by **MadeInJapan** » 20 Jun 2009, 06:01

Although the blower motor on the P2's (V70/S80, etc. from '01 forward) is basically in the same place as their 850 predecessor, removal and replacement is complicated by the fact that the glove box actually has to come out and the blower actually sits up and upside down. In order to do this replacement, a few other parts have to be taken out of the way first. I have copied the needed files from VADIS, below:

01 Fan Motor.pdf: (74.21 KiB) Downloaded 23548 times

02 Door Sill Trim.pdf: (27.96 KiB) Downloaded 9599 times

03 Soundproof Panel.pdf: (50.11 KiB) Downloaded 8923 times

04 Center Console.pdf: (35.95 KiB) Downloaded 9526 times

05 Glove Compartment.pdf: (59.25 KiB) Downloaded 11440 times

lerosh · Post by **lerosh** » 26 Feb 2010, 04:51

cant download this info????

Post by **matthew1** » 28 Feb 2010, 00:03

Try now. The forum's stored files were broken for about 12 hours after the site software and style upgrades a few nights ago.

Post by **worldbound4now** » 27 Oct 2011, 11:50

2001 V70 Fan Blower Motor Replacement

I've had trouble with my interior climate control blower fan squealing at startup, more persistently when it's cold out. The problem has become more frequent over the past year, so I finally decided it was time to replace the blower motor. The first post in this thread was quite helpful for my 2001 V70, but I wanted to post up pictures and a few hints regarding the specific application of a blower motor replacement in my vehicle in the hopes that these pictures can be of use to some of you out there.

I replaced my OEM blower with an aftermarket blower from fcpgroton.com. The price was right and the shipping was fast. I will use them again for future purposes.

Tools I needed to get this job done include, from left to right:

Phillips screw driver, 1/4 inch drive extension and ratchet, T25 bit, flex-handle for 1/4 inch drive, and a pair of pliers.
1. Disconnect the battery. This keeps your electrical goodies relatively safe and keeps the foot well light off and cool while you're working with your door open.

2. The OP posted a .pdf file that states the side panel on the center console needs to be removed. I removed this panel but in retrospect I found this step can be skipped on my car since the side center console side panel was not interfering in any way. The front door sill trim panel does need to be removed to conveniently fold back the floor carpet, and the .pdf file from here provided adequate instructions for removal of this panel.

3. Remove the soundproofing panel (kicker panel) below the glove box. It was held in place by two T-25 screws. No picture of this, hopefully you've already been here to change your climate control filter.

4. Begin the glove compartment removal.

Open the glove compartment and look in the space above the box off to the right hand side. You'll see the top end of the gas strut. With your fingers, reach in and tip the mounting point of camber while pulling towards you. The strut can be pulled off of its mounting point as shown by the two circles below.

Now, with the glove box still open, you should be able to see the two tabs that prevent the box from extending beyond the initial 60 degree (estimated) opening angle. While reaching over the plastic lip behind the glove box (yellow arrow) with both hands, one for each side's tab, partially close the glove box and pull the plastic tab panel towards you to flex it enough to clear the stops (red arrow). The picture shows my index finger on the tab for illustration purposes. You need to reach behind this lip and pull it towards you, not push it away as it may appear by my finger positioning. Don't pull too hard otherwise you may be on the hunt for a replacement glove box as well. As can be seen two pictures down, the left tab was broken off on my vehicle, something that occurred prior to my ownership of this vehicle. This should now allow the glove box to fully extend, exposing all eight of the mounting screws which need to be removed next. There are three along each side and two along the top edge.

Gently pull the glove box towards you and out of the hole to expose the two wire couplers and detach them as well. Now you can finally get the glove box out of your vehicle and set aside in a safe place.

5. Begin blower fan removal. reach up to the very front right edge of the floor carpeting and pull the corner of the carpet back enough to give you some room to access the blower mounting screws and drain hose.
Look up under the lower edge of where the glove box used to be. You'll see the electrical connector to your blower motor. Carefully disconnect it now.

Now comes the tricky part where you can feel the frustration of a toddler yet use some very adult words. Using your T25 bit and various 1/4 inch drive attachments, locate and remove the five mounting screws. I tried my best to get a picture of them in place, highlighted with the arrows.

To help alleviate strain on the drain hoses, I also removed the cover panel for the climate control filter housing since the two hoses are connected to each other. I took this opportunity to inspect this filter as well.

Your fan motor should gently drop down out of its hole. There is a plastic cover which has the drainage hose fixed to it which snaps off that can now be removed.

6. Remove the fan motor from the fan housing. This is done by removing the two screws off of the back of the motor and gently pulling the motor out of the housing. In my install, this was necessary because I chose to re-use the old voltage regulator that controls the fan speed and there were subtle differences between the new and old fans/motors like the position of the motor mounting holes in inside of the housing. Pictured below is the new motor on the left and the old housing on the right. Notice the new screws are at 2 o'clock and 8 o'clock but the old screws were at 10 o'clock and 4 o'clock positions.

The old regulator came out easily by removal of two T25 screws and installed into the new housing after removal of the new motor from the new housing without any issues. After moving the regulator over into the new housing, re-insert the new motor back into the new housing and connect the motor wires to the motor regulator device.

Here is where I snapped the new housing cover (the one that receives the drainage hose that came with the replacement fan) onto the new fan housing, starting with the large tab that inserts near the wire couplers.

8. Remove the drain hose from the plastic cover which is still attached in your vehicle. The Volvo hose clamp can be re-used or you can use a new hose clamp when you re-install the new cover if you damaged the old clamp. This hose is a gravity fed, non pressurized line so a snug seal is sufficient. The new replacement cover and old covers were quite similar, but had subtle differences to match the changes in the replacement motor so changing out this cover was required.

9. Reverse your steps to re-install the motor into the car. Be sure you align the fan housing with fan installed in the correct orientation before putting the fan up in the hole. There is a scoop type duct that sticks off of the housing that needs to be pointed to the left in order to align properly with the receiving housing up dash panel.

The end outcome: I now have a blower motor that does not squeal. There is a subtle fan motor noise that was not heard with the old unit, but the noise is so subtle that I don't notice it over any normal car noises (road, radio, etc.). I assume this is because the after-market device purchased did not have the rubberized mounts within the motor housing as seen in the earlier pictures (the old housing had the soft white cushioned material and the new motor housing was strictly ABS type plastic). Overall, this project was well worth the effort and was reasonable to perform in my garage at a cost savings of about $500 less than what my local independent shop wanted to replace the motor.

Have a great Halloween everyone!

Worldbound4now

Post by **DGM** » 27 Oct 2011, 19:39

Great write-up!

Post by **worldbound4now** » 28 Oct 2011, 11:21

Thank you. Hopefully somebody finds it useful. It's also helpful, at times, to slow down and take some pictures. It gives me time to think things through.

Post by **DGM** » 28 Oct 2011, 17:02

worldbound4now wrote:Thank you. Hopefully somebody finds it useful. It's also helpful, at times, to slow down and take some pictures. It gives me time to think things through.

It is valuable work and now people who think of doing it can appreciate what is involved.

The "rock & roll" that you had to do under the dash isn't shown though.....

Thanks for the initiative,

Post by **dan777** » 30 Oct 2011, 23:29

Excellent tutorial!
My blower is noisy in the third position so I am thinking to replace it sometime soon.
I did this on my old 2000 V70R, it was way easier but I was too cheap to replace the motor, I just used some W40 and some oil gently sprayed around the old motor shaft bearing and it did silence it really well...
Thanks again,

SassyLu · Post by **SassyLu** » 28 Jan 2012, 11:45

Yikes! I have taken my blower motor out lubricated it and it sounds smooth and works well... but when i first start the car for 30 seconds my rec and ac light flash and the motor will not work. Once the flashing stops the blower motor works and works well. I read that this is a error warning... but where do i go from here why is this flashing happening? What do i replace?

Post by **Northstar** » 26 Jul 2012, 12:57

Very nice! Question: On my 2005 XC90 V8... VIDA says I need to take out the whole dashboard. Yet I can see the bottom cover on the blower when I remove the right passenger kickpanel/soundproofing panel. Can't I just get at it without removing the dashboard?