PCV System Repair Tutorial Missing?

DAK · Post by **DAK** » 27 Nov 2011, 19:33

Does anyone know how to access the PCV System Repair Tutorial? Doesn't seem like I can access it anymore? Also, need some pics or diagram of the Vac Hose layouts if someone has?

Post by **rspi** » 27 Nov 2011, 20:04

Here is the one I usually use: http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/

Post by **jblackburn** » 27 Nov 2011, 20:11

I'm a klutz and broke the link trying to delete some spam posts the other night

Matt's working on getting the link back. I think I have a PDF at work (tomorrow) if you want me to email it to you if he doesn't have it back up by then.

DAK · Post by **DAK** » 28 Nov 2011, 06:28

Thank to all...

Anyone have photos/diagrams (readable) for the Vacuum Hose Layout? There were several disconnected hoses from the previous owner, when I started to dig into the PCV project.

DAK · Post by **DAK** » 28 Nov 2011, 06:43

@jblackburn.....Thank You - you can PM me, or post the PDF, or I can wait a day or two for the link to come back. (Still have a lot of oil to clean and waiting for parts to arrive.

Post by **jblackburn** » 28 Nov 2011, 07:07

Here's a PDF of my section of the repair.

PCV repair.pdf: PCV System Repair PDF; (1.12 MiB) Downloaded 365 times

Matt said he was working on the link and should have the rest of the tutorial with the comments and everything else up soon.

As far as the vacuum lines, here's the official diagram. A bit difficult to read, but with a bit of tracing, you can figure out where most things go.

DAK · Post by **DAK** » 28 Nov 2011, 07:41

Thanks.....will see how it goes

Post by **cn90** » 28 Nov 2011, 09:49

Symptom: leaking Rear Main Seal but.......at the end there was no clogging of my PCV at all.
So this was a preventive maintenance issue.

Since my car was driven on mostly highway (60%) and city driving (40%) is usually more than 10 miles, and also since I changed my oil twice a year (every 5K), there is virtually no clogging of the PCV at all. All the orifices have some deposit but the clog is about 5%. So I ended up with a brand new PCV system and a write-up for you guys!

There is a write-up for the Turbo Engine:
http://lakesidedp.com/uploadpics/pcv/

Allow 3-4 hours of work!
Search forum for best parts (not sure? Then use Volvo OEM parts, they cost a bit more but they last a long time!).

Since mine is a Non-Turbo, there are minor different designs compared with Turbo Models. In addition, I will point to areas of possible problems for people.

- Read the above write-up for Turbo.
- Copy radio AM FM channels, disconect battery for safety.
- Remove electrical connections to Throttle and Idle Valve
- Remove these 2 hoses (my vacuum hose is brittle so I replaced it)
- The PCV connection to elbow: turn it Counter-Clockwise (when viewed end on, similar to opening a bottle cap) a bit, it will come off the plastic Elbow.
- Remove large clamps holding the Elbow and remove the Elbow from the Air Mass Meter and Throttle Intake. The manifold is now attached only by: throttle cable, wiring to fuel injectors.
- When removing vacuum connections, watch for the Rubber Vacuum Plugs, they can be knocked off and difficult to find.
- De-pressurizing the fuel system by releasing the shrader valve, about 10 cc of gasoline will come out here. Re-install the blue cap.
- To disconnect Fuel line (which is flared fitting if you are familiar with home plumbing system), 17-mm wrench of the large nut and 14-mm (or 9/16") wrench on the fuel rail.
- Slightly move the fuel line a bit to ease removal of the Intake Manifold.

- The Intake Manifold has 3 Upper bolts and 4 Lower bolts. Remove the 3 Upper bolts using 10-mm socket with swivel and telescoping magnet. Do NOT remove the 4 Lower Bolts, loosen them only (Do NOT remove them).

- Underneath the Intake Manifold, there are two (2) 12-mm bolts holding the Manifold and Engine Oil Dipstick.
- I use a piece of wood as a "bridge" to rest the Intake Manifold to avoid straining the driver side connections (throttle cable, wiring to fuel injectors etc.)

- The Oil separator has 2 bolts. The short rubber hose to the engine block uses 2 clamps (torx).
- As mentioned in the other write-up. Make a note of the hose connections so you do NOT get mixed up. Also attach the hoses and clamps on the Oil separator before installing the Oil separator.
NOTE: For the clamps: I use a Ceramic Tile Nipper but I file the edges smooth to avoid sharp edges cutting through the clamp. Alternatively, you can use the Pliers that Sprinkler System Installers use.

- Remove the old gasket, clean the mating surfaces using a rag and paint thinner (or mineral spirits) to wash off the gunk.

- Note for all installations: use a small dab of grease around hoses, elbows etc., this will allow smooth installation without tearing the hose or damage to the connections.

- Install new gasket. I apply a bit of grease to help hold the gasket in place during installation. NOTE: Now remove all 4 Lower Bolts, then loosely install them with ONLY 3 turns to allow room for the Intake Manifold to go in. Watch the passenger's side of the Intake Manifold, it can hit the Upper Radiator Hose near the thermostat!

- Do Not foget to re-attach the small vacuum hose attachment on the pass side of the Intake Manifold. Then snake the Rubber Hose through the Manifold between the 3rd and 4th Intake Space. Re-install the Intake Manifold taking care NOT to damage the gasket. Tighten all 7 bolts. Do NOT forget the 2 bolts underneath the Manifold.

- Re-attach Fuel Line, Intake Elbow, Electrical Connections, Vacuum Hoses, Rubber Plug (if you knocked it off!).

- Connect battery. Prime the fuel system by turning key in Ingition to II position (without starting engine) a few times to prime the fuel pump.

- Start engine, watch for any fuel leak at the flared fitting. Test drive the car.

- Re-program the radio.

Good Luck!!!

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: 98V70_PCV_02.jpg (129.15 KiB) Viewed 2989 times

: 98V70_PCV_03.jpg (121.96 KiB) Viewed 2989 times

DAK · Post by **DAK** » 30 Nov 2011, 15:12

Thanks to "all"..... Does the Intake Gasket need any sealant, or dry? Also, does someone have the correct torque spec's for the intake bolts and sequence?

Post by **jblackburn** » 30 Nov 2011, 15:31

Doesn't need any sealant, just make sure you have a clean surface on both ends (and hands!)

Don't know the specs, but snug will do. Like an oil drainplug - don't tighten them down like some kinda superhero.