I've searched the forum and can't find a similar issue so here goes.
Also, please don't weigh in if your only guessing....Thanks!
I have a 2001 S60 non-turbo with 92k miles.
On cold mornings (30 degrees F)the car starts up fine but if you tap the accelerator, the RPMs continue to increase from approx 1200 (normal cold start RPM) to over 2500 RPMs. Sometime when you hit the accelerator again it decreases but not all the time. So the work around is to start the car and let it run for 15 mins so that it gets past the cold start procedure.
My local Volvo dealer is taking the "replace a part until we fix" approach. So far the dealer is doing exactly what I would have done (replace a part until it's fixed) except I don't charge $90 per hour because I'm not factory trained......
1st they cleaned the throttle body. No change at all
2nd they replaced the mass air flow meter. No change at all. They also said my K&N filter could cause problems....So I dropped the Volvo filter back in.
They blamed my NGK spark plugs (the car came with them when I purchased it last year). I installed genuine Volvo plugs. Still not change.
They have also updated the cars software.
In addition, the flame trap (aka oil separator) needs to be replaced. It's whistling really loud.
Could this be part of the problem??
2001 S60 Idle issues when cold
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fazool
- Posts: 746
- Joined: 6 February 2010
- Year and Model: S60, 2007
- Location: buffalo, NY
- Been thanked: 7 times
A dealer claimed that spark plug brand could cause a run-away idle speed ?!?
The same dealer claimed an air filter could cause run-away idle speed ?!?
They have no clue and are guessing.
The throttle is controlled by the ETM. That's a prime culprit IMO.
The same dealer claimed an air filter could cause run-away idle speed ?!?
They have no clue and are guessing.
The throttle is controlled by the ETM. That's a prime culprit IMO.
2007 S60 2.5T AWD (Daily Driver)
2001 S60 2.4T (Daughter's Car)
2003 S80 2.9 (Son's Car)
1995 850 2.4 (Daughter's Car - sold off)
2005 S40 2.4i (Bought new - since sold)
1986 740GLE 2.3(First Volvo - sold off)
When you say the Mass Air Flow Meter, do you mean the sensor? I also had some idling problems on my 2002 s60, normally when cold, though sometimes when warm as well. My problem was the engine sounded like it was struggling. I also cleaned the throttle body, and it helped for two days, then back to normal. I then cleaned my MAF sensor, now runs slightly better, though will chug a few times when cold, then acts normal (real quiet too), and now my check engine light has disappeared. If you have a 2001, then your problem might be a bad Electronic Throttle Module (ETM). Check out these websites.
http://home.comcast.net/~donwillson/VEXED_won.html
http://www.autosafety.org/1999-2002-vol ... tle-module
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Volvo/S60/ ... tigations/ (scroll down to problem #2)
I guess when the s60 came out they were using the DENSCO (Can't remember the brand name) for their ETM's. Well, after two years of problems, they switched in 2002 to the BOSCH brand ETM. If you have the original brand, and since you have a 2001, you should, get your VIN number and call the dealer and tell them you are having problems with your ETM. Tell them you checked out that Volvo had a 10 year or 200,000 (I believe 200,000, but maybe 100,000) mile warranty extensions on them. But if they fail, they should replace them at no charge. They should be able to pull your VIN number, and see if you qualify for the part. They did that for mine, but since I had a BOSCH, I didn't qualify. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you can always get a new $500 part for free.
http://home.comcast.net/~donwillson/VEXED_won.html
http://www.autosafety.org/1999-2002-vol ... tle-module
http://www.carcomplaints.com/Volvo/S60/ ... tigations/ (scroll down to problem #2)
I guess when the s60 came out they were using the DENSCO (Can't remember the brand name) for their ETM's. Well, after two years of problems, they switched in 2002 to the BOSCH brand ETM. If you have the original brand, and since you have a 2001, you should, get your VIN number and call the dealer and tell them you are having problems with your ETM. Tell them you checked out that Volvo had a 10 year or 200,000 (I believe 200,000, but maybe 100,000) mile warranty extensions on them. But if they fail, they should replace them at no charge. They should be able to pull your VIN number, and see if you qualify for the part. They did that for mine, but since I had a BOSCH, I didn't qualify. Even if it doesn't fix your problem, you can always get a new $500 part for free.
Temperature sensor or etm.
2001 V70 T5 Manual, K&N, Silicone Vacuum, Moondust, Oak Cloth, LED Interior, Tourist & Diplomat Sales(Sweden)
1994 850 Sedan Manual*Wrecked*
1998 S90 Sedan *Sold*
1981 245 DL Wagon Manual *abandoned*
1984 240 Gl *traded*
1994 850 Sedan Manual*Wrecked*
1998 S90 Sedan *Sold*
1981 245 DL Wagon Manual *abandoned*
1984 240 Gl *traded*
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Magelson52
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 24 December 2011
- Year and Model: S60, 2003
- Location: MARYLAND
Hello,
I have a 2003 S60 with 157,000 miles on it, and the mechanic is saying that I need a new "oil separator"... at a cost of $2,000.00! I don't know anything about this part or process but does this sound like a fair price? Is it that much of a massive job?
Your thoughts....
I have a 2003 S60 with 157,000 miles on it, and the mechanic is saying that I need a new "oil separator"... at a cost of $2,000.00! I don't know anything about this part or process but does this sound like a fair price? Is it that much of a massive job?
Your thoughts....
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draser
- Posts: 790
- Joined: 18 August 2011
- Year and Model: 2005 S60 2.5T
- Location: Detroit MI
- Been thanked: 2 times
Well, to respond to the first post - it's hard to tell exactly what component is bad because each case is different and each description of the symptom is different. But what we can do is a logical approach to respond to this. You describe it as a cold start issue, but you say it does start easy but it won't hold the idle steady. If it does start easy then more than likely the temp sensor is in good condition, but you can still measure with an ohm-meter to read high resistance cold/low resistance warm. Also the plug condition can be visually inspected for clean contacts (no green corrosion) and tightness. But more than likely it's the idle stabilizer circuit, whatever that is, so some investigation is required. The ETC may end up being part of it. So whatever the dealer/repair shop did so far has nothing to do with your simptom.
2005 Volvo S60 2.5T, Zimmerman/Akebono brakes
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
2012 Honda Accord, EBC slotted rotors
So, the Volvo dealer has had my now for a total of 11 days and they sit have not been able to fix my high idle when cold issue.
As a reminder, on a cold morning, when I start the engine, it fires right up and idles around 1800 rpms but if you tap the accelerator peddle, the idle quickly climbs to over 4000 RPMs and hangs there for 20 - 30 second. Dangerous if you happen to throw the car into gear. Gives new meaning to unintended acceleration.
So far the dealer has cleaned or replaced:
1. The throttle body was cleaned
2. The ETM was replaced
3. The temp sensor was replaced
4. The oil trap was replaced (whistling out of the dip stick. This was fixed)
5. The MAF was replaced (will be removed and my old one reinstalled once they determine the real cause)
6. The ECM was replaced (will be removed and my old one reinstalled once they determine the real cause)
7. Installed genuine Volvo spark plugs to replace the NGK's
The good news is I have only been charged for #'s 1, 4 and 7. I get to keep the ETM and temp sensor.
The dealer is as frustrated as I am but appears to be committed to fixing the car and maybe collect some $$'s from me to offset the time they aren't getting paid on. The guy working on the car has over 20 years of Volvo experience. They have been in on going contact with Volvo but 11 days.....no fix. To make matters worse, no error codes.
So, please weigh in if you really know what the problem is.....
Thanks.
As a reminder, on a cold morning, when I start the engine, it fires right up and idles around 1800 rpms but if you tap the accelerator peddle, the idle quickly climbs to over 4000 RPMs and hangs there for 20 - 30 second. Dangerous if you happen to throw the car into gear. Gives new meaning to unintended acceleration.
So far the dealer has cleaned or replaced:
1. The throttle body was cleaned
2. The ETM was replaced
3. The temp sensor was replaced
4. The oil trap was replaced (whistling out of the dip stick. This was fixed)
5. The MAF was replaced (will be removed and my old one reinstalled once they determine the real cause)
6. The ECM was replaced (will be removed and my old one reinstalled once they determine the real cause)
7. Installed genuine Volvo spark plugs to replace the NGK's
The good news is I have only been charged for #'s 1, 4 and 7. I get to keep the ETM and temp sensor.
The dealer is as frustrated as I am but appears to be committed to fixing the car and maybe collect some $$'s from me to offset the time they aren't getting paid on. The guy working on the car has over 20 years of Volvo experience. They have been in on going contact with Volvo but 11 days.....no fix. To make matters worse, no error codes.
So, please weigh in if you really know what the problem is.....
Thanks.
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Craignav
- Posts: 1
- Joined: 22 January 2020
- Year and Model: 2002 s60 non turbo
- Location: Highland Mills, NY
- Has thanked: 1 time
Definitely a few years since you posted this, but I was wondering if you ever discovered the problem. I am having the same issues with my 2002 s60 non turbo, manual Tran. 270,000miles. I’m the original owner.
Cold start, tap accelerator and the rpm’s start to climb past 1500-2000 and remain there. No codes, ETM was replaced 2k miles ago.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cold start, tap accelerator and the rpm’s start to climb past 1500-2000 and remain there. No codes, ETM was replaced 2k miles ago.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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