My 1998 V70R's turbo impeller fins are rubbing the housing. Here's my questions;
From reading around here I guess it's a 16T turbo, right?
How much does a rebuilt or used turbo go for and where would I get one?
How much are rebuild kits (I found a few really good how-to's on rebuilding) and where do I get one.
Does this condition reduce boost pressure and what is the risk of letting it continue?
Turbocharger advice rebuild or buy?
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Jack Rock
- Posts: 313
- Joined: 2 June 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 V70R
- Location: Stratford, Ontario
- Been thanked: 1 time
Turbocharger advice rebuild or buy?
1997 850 T5 (gave up at 324,000km)
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
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rmmagow
- Posts: 2023
- Joined: 11 March 2006
- Year and Model: V70 1998
- Location: Rhode Island USA
- Been thanked: 2 times
If the turbo grenades I'd think there'd be a lot of downside things happening. Poke around the internet, there are a few good rebuild places for getting a re-built unit. Maybe a junk yard but re-built would be better. I don't think there's anything really weird relative to this turbocharger and you should find one pretty easily. I'm more concerned about running the car while the turbo charger is actually having parts hit each other, bad stuff.
1998 V70 AWD 228K - Daily Driver
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
1985 Mercedes Benz 300D - 197K Off Road For Now Brakes Failed
1998 S70 135K - FOR SALE
2003 GMC Sonoma - 114K - POS
1958 Mercedes Benz 220S 66K Original and never to be restored.
2006 Saturn ION 5-Speed - 150K Son's weird little easy to fix car
Sound like a problem the wheel should never touch I think the bearing inside are toast allowing severe movement of the shaft so that the wheel touches, not a good situation. It reduces boost pressure due to drag or resistance the wheel can not spin fast enough to produce the proper boost pressure. The longer it continues the more it will cost to repair due to damage and wear on the parts. These turbos spins 125,650rpm at max boost now think how your car feels and how you wear and damage your tires when its out of balance and that spins only 840rpm on your model. If that condition screws up the bore on the housing it will cost you a lot more to purchase a new one and then rebuilding is out of the question you have to buy a new turbo CHRA housing which puts you in the $600-700 range. If it grenades and messes up compression housing (snails) then your in for 1200 bucks for a completely new turbo
I don't know why rebuilder service or rebuilt turbo's as a unit don't amount to the parts and labor? These are very simple devices you can gets parts here: http://shop.midwestturboconnection.com/ ... ing_c4.htm
rebuilt kit is 50bucks for a minor to $175 for a major with upgraded parts. Then use http://www.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/ to balance it. The turbo you have is a MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) TD04HL we all do the difference is the other side the cold side or large end is different sizes depending on model. Here is a nice write of of rebuilding one http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... -up-55357/
If you can do basic mechanical work you can do a turbo assuming you have tools. To take the big cir-clip off people usually buy an expensive large snap ring tool but you can use needle nose pliers and I think they work better and grip better compared to the special tool since there are teeth to grip the cir-clip so it doesn't go flying. This is what I used on the last turbo I rebuilt along with the parts and services listed.
Forced performance balances as a whole turbo assembly other shops balances the shaft with both wheels but you have to separate it to assemble it back and if done wrong it can go south quick and your back at square one. After weeks of searching nobody on the internet period ever writes where to assemble balance outside of 2 post about a shop in Florida. Everyone else write they get the shaft balanced take it apart and hope they align it back right when they assemble it, the cost $75 for the balance. Forced performance charges $35 to balance as an assembly and your done. They don't advertise this service because they also rebuild turbos but if you call they will advise you they do balance services and how to get it done through them.
If you don't feel comfortable about it then midwest above rebuilds from 350-440 depending on upgrades or not but they don't do the assembly balance but again the shaft then mark it take apart and assemble it back to the marks. I prefer the assembly balance because it takes into account all the internal parts spinning the way they would on the car and its a superior way to balance but it depends how far you want to take your project. Forced performance charges $410 to rebuild with original parts no upgrades but they do a better job of rebuilding as more care is given, you can read more on their sites and compare yourself.
Good luck and here are some more helpful links including how to use the needle nose plier on the clip
http://www.3si.org/forum/f53/green-lant ... ndex4.html
http://www.stage-infinity.com/2007/09/2 ... o-rebuild/
I don't know why rebuilder service or rebuilt turbo's as a unit don't amount to the parts and labor? These are very simple devices you can gets parts here: http://shop.midwestturboconnection.com/ ... ing_c4.htm
rebuilt kit is 50bucks for a minor to $175 for a major with upgraded parts. Then use http://www.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/ to balance it. The turbo you have is a MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries) TD04HL we all do the difference is the other side the cold side or large end is different sizes depending on model. Here is a nice write of of rebuilding one http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-850- ... -up-55357/
If you can do basic mechanical work you can do a turbo assuming you have tools. To take the big cir-clip off people usually buy an expensive large snap ring tool but you can use needle nose pliers and I think they work better and grip better compared to the special tool since there are teeth to grip the cir-clip so it doesn't go flying. This is what I used on the last turbo I rebuilt along with the parts and services listed.
Forced performance balances as a whole turbo assembly other shops balances the shaft with both wheels but you have to separate it to assemble it back and if done wrong it can go south quick and your back at square one. After weeks of searching nobody on the internet period ever writes where to assemble balance outside of 2 post about a shop in Florida. Everyone else write they get the shaft balanced take it apart and hope they align it back right when they assemble it, the cost $75 for the balance. Forced performance charges $35 to balance as an assembly and your done. They don't advertise this service because they also rebuild turbos but if you call they will advise you they do balance services and how to get it done through them.
If you don't feel comfortable about it then midwest above rebuilds from 350-440 depending on upgrades or not but they don't do the assembly balance but again the shaft then mark it take apart and assemble it back to the marks. I prefer the assembly balance because it takes into account all the internal parts spinning the way they would on the car and its a superior way to balance but it depends how far you want to take your project. Forced performance charges $410 to rebuild with original parts no upgrades but they do a better job of rebuilding as more care is given, you can read more on their sites and compare yourself.
Good luck and here are some more helpful links including how to use the needle nose plier on the clip
http://www.3si.org/forum/f53/green-lant ... ndex4.html
http://www.stage-infinity.com/2007/09/2 ... o-rebuild/
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Jack Rock
- Posts: 313
- Joined: 2 June 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 V70R
- Location: Stratford, Ontario
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks for your thorough reply! I think I'll try to locate a used one first. Failing that, midwest turbo seems to have reasonably priced rebuild kits. Assuming the fins have left a gouge in the housing, rebuilding this with a basic kit is not ideal but the result would be a rebuilt turbo with not as much boost as it could have, am I right to assume this? I'm not looking for performance here, I just would like to drive this car for a couple more years without a dramatic turbo failure. That being said, can I use a 15T or 15G or any other turbo? There seem to be more around.
1997 850 T5 (gave up at 324,000km)
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
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trophytaker308
- Posts: 158
- Joined: 22 February 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850t turbo
- Location: u.s..ky
http://turbocharged.com/main.htm
call him,he just built me a 18t for 425 shipped,he can do what ever you need him to do.
call him,he just built me a 18t for 425 shipped,he can do what ever you need him to do.
1995 850t turbo,siver with black leahter interior (perfect),, 118000 miles .second owner.9 out of a 10...!
Basic kit or not should not affect your boost level. The basic kit is just that a basic kit with fewer parts. You need to take a look to see how much damage or wear you have and then order the appropriate kit with the parts needed. The upgrade kit also give you some better thrust washers and step gap rings you don't needed that based upon what your using your car for sounds like. If your just a daily driver and also not looking for super longevity past the original life expectancy of a turbo I don't see a reason for you to get an upgraded kit. I would say get yourself a major rebuild kit for 90bucks put it all together and then spend yourself 35more bucks get it balanced and your done.
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trophytaker308
- Posts: 158
- Joined: 22 February 2011
- Year and Model: 1995 850t turbo
- Location: u.s..ky
let this guy do it,he also balance them,which you would not be able to do i asume..and you cant beat the price.
1995 850t turbo,siver with black leahter interior (perfect),, 118000 miles .second owner.9 out of a 10...!
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Jack Rock
- Posts: 313
- Joined: 2 June 2010
- Year and Model: 1998 V70R
- Location: Stratford, Ontario
- Been thanked: 1 time
Thanks for the advice. I will either be installing a used turbo or rebuilding it myself. Since this is a daily driver, I can't have my turbocharger gone for a couple weeks. As far as used goes, is there any other turbo I can put in this car other than the 16T?
1997 850 T5 (gave up at 324,000km)
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
1998 V70 R AWD (gave up at 296,000km)
1998 S70 T5 (total loss - in a parking lot!)
1999 V70XC
1975 VW beetle
1960 Empi Sportster Dune Buggy
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