Volvo 850 Dashboard Mount Repair

ArchieBrown · Post by **ArchieBrown** » 03 Jul 2011, 06:05

You'll need a 25 - and a about 5 or 6 cms of length in the driver you've got it attached to. From memory, it rotates clockwise to release.

I just finished putting my dash all back in after spending the weekend pulling it out to put in Ozarks funky brackets.
Now I've got no creaks or rattles. Such a sweet, sweet thing.

Arch.

Post by **vjaneczko** » 03 Jul 2011, 10:31

Well that explains a lot! I have a Torx head that only goes in about 1 inch; the socket it's in isn't getting through the hole! Anyone have any ideas about how to deal with this? I'd really hate running around looking for a 6-inch Torx bit...

dbeckwith · Post by **dbeckwith** » 03 Jul 2011, 11:22

Instead of buying a flathead or phillips screwdriver, you buy a torxhead screw driver. They come in a variety of sizes including 25.

ArchieBrown · Post by **ArchieBrown** » 03 Jul 2011, 14:48

Further to that - unless you want to remove your instrument cluster you'll need to make sure the overall length of the tool you're using isn't too long. I have this kit: http://www.scrooz.com.au/products/Tampe ... -31pc.html and it was just the right size. Magnetized too - which saved me on plenty of occasions.

Post by **vjaneczko** » 06 Jul 2011, 22:57

FYI; It looks like it's a Torx 30 - and man, is that bugger torqued-down! I can't get the thing to budge! And it just happens that the instument cluster has already been removed, but the angle of the dash and steering wheel are in the exact wrong spot! It's bumping against the 6-inch Torx driver I picked-up so getting a firm grip is not easy. Granted, I rushed home from buying the driver so I was still in my suit, but it should've budged!

This 4 hour project is turning into hours per day!

Post by **vjaneczko** » 09 Nov 2011, 15:02

Any chance JB Weld will work instead of epoxy to glue the tabs back together? Thought I had some but it looks like I only have JB, and I'd rather use that than super glue.

C@lvin · Post by **C@lvin** » 10 Nov 2011, 15:14

my recollection is that the main purpose of gluing the tabs back together is to provide an accurate guide for how and where to install the metal reinforcing brackets and to hold the nut in place to guide the mating of the bolt with it when you reassemble the dash - once you do that the force of the bolt is carried by the metal. Once you get it all apart you can verify if my recollection is accurate, but if it is then it really won't matter much what you use as long as it will work with hard plastic. Hope this helps.

homerh · Post by **homerh** » 29 Mar 2012, 16:29

From my Haynes manual it looks like taking just the top of the dash off would not be that difficult nor time consuming. My question is if that will allow me the access needed to inspect and repair the dashboard mounts. BTW, I have had very good success repairing other broken plastic components with JB Weld. Just keep in mind that it drys very slowly, but I believe that contributes to it's high strength.

homerh · Post by **homerh** » 04 Apr 2012, 12:41

homerh wrote:From my Haynes manual it looks like taking just the top of the dash off would not be that difficult nor time consuming. My question is if that will allow me the access needed to inspect and repair the dashboard mounts. BTW, I have had very good success repairing other broken plastic components with JB Weld. Just keep in mind that it drys very slowly, but I believe that contributes to it's high strength.

Well, nobody seemed interested in answering my question so I'll do it myself in case someone else might be wondering the same thing. The answer is no, you cannot see the mounts just by taking the top panel off because they are covered by the piece of trim that butts right up to the windshield, and it is an integral part of the instrument panel that cannot be removed from it. Fortunately it was not difficult nor time consuming to remove the top panel and I found it easier to remove the instrument panel w/o the extra weight of the top panel, which I was able to do by myself. After inspecting the mounts, which I could do by just pulling the panel back a few inches, I opted for a replacement from a salvage yard because mine was cracked or broken in so many other places (TX sun is murder on the plastic parts). I was fortunate to find a good dash locally with all brackets intact, but added the reinforcements to the mounting brackets as described in this thread so I would not have to do it again anytime soon. The only difference from this thread is that I bought U brackets for hanging 1/2" conduit pipe (10 for less than $2) and hammered them into the shape I needed. This simplifies the task because no cutting is involved and the holes in the ears are already there. Start by drilling a small pilot hole in the dash for the first ear and then make the bends one at a time as you work your way around the mounting bracket, marking the exact location of each bend with a sharpie. The width and length of the conduit brackets was perfect for this purpose and were easy to shape with a small anvil, hammer and a sturdy pair of pliers. The hardest part was drilling the hole for the mounting bolt because the position is very critical. I suggest drilling the hole after flattening the front portion of the bracket and before bending into its final shape and be sure to very carefully measure the distance from the center of the front mounting hole you drilled in the dash to the center of the square nut in the mount, ideally with calipers (measure twice, drill once). When attaching the brackets, I put a couple pieces of rubber cut from a bicycle inner tube between the bracket ears and the dash and also a star lock washer on the other side to keep the screw from coming loose (self tapping #8 X 1/2" works great). Just be careful to not over tighten as the plastic is fairly thin, making it is easy to strip out the hole. I suggest holding the bracket in its final position with a clamp when putting in the second screw to assure the brace is wrapped tightly around the mount since it will not add much strength if it isn't. Last tip is to put a piece of pressure sensitive insulating foam tape on the inside of the firewall where the mounting bolts come through, poking a hole in it for the bolts to go through. The foam provides an additional measure of cushioning to keep the dash quiet and tight.

It was a long job to complete, but the results and money I saved over taking it to any shop was well worth the time and effort, plus I able to upgrade both the panel and center console to the S70 GLT SE style with the wood trim for only $180.

eld4au6 · Post by **eld4au6** » 24 Apr 2012, 13:32

Ok, I really don't want to remove my dash to fix that squeak!

Hear me out.

Would it be possible just to drill a small hole above the broken mount on the firewall and inject plastic weld or some other type of strong glue to mend the broken mount? Then just seal up the small hole on the firewall? My dash only has a broken mount on the far right near the pass airbag.

Volvo 850 Dashboard Mount Repair

Re: Volvo 850 Dashboard Mount Repair