Code: Incorrect Gear Ratio?

squeaky3 · Post by **squeaky3** » 03 Apr 2012, 18:53

My check engine light, an arrow, and a fading in and out green Economy/Sports module light came on. The code said "Incorrect Gear Ratio," but the only difference I notice is more sluggishness coming out of a stopped position, which can be very dangerous if I forget about it when turning. Can anyone help and tell me what to do short of taking it to a mechanic? Thanks.

Squeaky3

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 03 Apr 2012, 19:34

It's in limp mode. Are any other codes present?

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squeaky3 · Post by **squeaky3** » 03 Apr 2012, 20:36

There are no other codes, and the onboard code device, both A and B, are blank. I was only able to find this by searching with a reader (OBD II?) under the dash by the ashtray, thanks to an auto parts store.

Thanks for your interest.

Squeaky3

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 03 Apr 2012, 21:12

Perhaps the "limp mode" is being caused by a bad PNP, and the code a result of you driving it in "limp mode".

Do the reverse lights work?

You could try temporarily cleaning up the contacts in the PNP by rowing the gear selector back and forth between Park and L 15-20 times with the engine off and foot on brake then start it up and see.

Billc1015 · Post by **Billc1015** » 04 Apr 2012, 05:25

That was the exact code I got when my trans filter started to get clogged. I would get a slightly delayed upshift and then the light would come on and the trans went into limp mode. It originally only did it if I was accelerating hard when the trans was cold. If I let it warm up first I didn't have a problem. I was able to keep driving it for another year before the filter completely clogged and I had to remove the trans and rebuild it.

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squeaky3 · Post by **squeaky3** » 04 Apr 2012, 11:54

Billc1015:

My problem doesn't seem to be the same -- YET! What do you suggest I do to unclog the filter or prevent it from getting clogged? Also, the trans oil is kind of brown. Should I change it? Can I do this myself? If so, how? Thanks for responding.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 04 Apr 2012, 13:37

Doing a few drain and fills with couple hundred miles in between would probably be a good idea. You can do it yourself, all you need is the Jack & stands or ramps, ATF, funnel, pan and 24mm wrench. If you have a drive way with an incline, you may even be able to reach under without lifting vehicle (I know I can for motor oil drain, not sure with ATF).

Just remove the transmission drain plug and catch into pan. Inspect plug for any debris (it should be magnetized). Clean up the gunk from end and put it back in. Fill ATF through where the dipstick is. Put back in as much as came out, about 3.5 quarts. I use a funnel with a filter and bendy bottom. Start it and cycle through the gears then check the fluid while the car is level on the ground.

I have Valvoline MaxLife DEX/MERC in mine and used Castrol DEX/MERC in my brothers. When I flushed mine I used WallyWorld Super Tech to push out the old first. I have no complaints with the fluids.

squeaky3 · Post by **squeaky3** » 05 Apr 2012, 03:20

Dear Big Red:

Thanks for your help. I'll take your suggestions. I would still like to know the terms you used -- limp mode and PNP. By the way, I told you I erased the lights. They're back.

BigRed · Post by **BigRed** » 05 Apr 2012, 09:01

The transmission is put it to "Limp Mode" to protect itself if a fault is detected. It's meant to give you some ability to move the vehicle to a place of repair.

Here is excerpt from the Auto Trans Diagnosis - AW50-42LE Manual

Signals from various sensors are monitored continuously by TCM. If certain signals are lost or become faulty, TCM will cut off electrical signal to transaxle components to protect transaxle. TCM adopts fixed substitute values (limp-home mode) to enable vehicle to be driven when certain failures occur. Warning indicator light will illuminate. Transaxle will not shift gears due to lack of electrical signal. Transaxle will operate in 4th gear in "D", and in 3rd gear in "L" position. Manual shifting is possible into all other shift lever positions. When starting off in limp-home mode, shift lever should be in "L" position to minimize transaxle wear. Faults are recorded in TCM memory in the form of Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).

The PNP Switch is also known as the Neutral Safety Switch or Gear Position Sensor. They often corrode internally (which rowing the back and forth may temporarily clean up) and become mis-aligned; a short is also possible cause.

If you did the rowing and did not see improvement, I may start to suspect a sticking shift solenoid (despite the fact that the code has not set). Perhaps the fresh fluid would rejuvinate it, though ultimatley they may need to be replaced. I've done that job, and there's numerous active disscussions going on now about it. Maybe they're coming up on that age.

I would do (and have done) 3 or 4 drain and fills spaced couple hundred miles apart. If symptoms stil persists I would then do the flush method I previoulsy linked to. Then if still persisting, do the S1, S2 & SL solenoid.

I can not recomend this, but we drove with it entering limp mode for the longest time. If the arrow came up, would just use a small scanner to reset the code then it would drive fine...till it set again, then repeat.

It's been about 2 years since I did the job. Following it was still entering Limp Mode sometimes and constant P0500 Vehicle Speed Sensor code. I bought replacement sensor at dealer, but it was wrong one; I think I got the Engine Speed Sensor instead. Anyway, while I was in there I unplugged the VSS and found that the car shifted perfectly without it connected, albeit with a persistent MIL and Flashing Arrow. Pulled those two bulbs and good as new!

squeaky3 · Post by **squeaky3** » 06 Apr 2012, 11:11

I followed your advice about rolling the shifter (but I had to start the engine first to get it out of park, put it in gear, then turn it off). The gears shifted fine, but the light came back on anyway. So I guess the next most conservative step is changing the fluid. I don't know if, because I'm handicapped, I can do this myself. In any case, isn't there also a filter that needs to be changed when I change the fluid? AND, since I'm so unmechanical, can you tell me step by step how to this, or anything else I might need to do? Is replacing the solenoid something someone like me can do? Thanks again