960 Not getting gas

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 21 Apr 2012, 07:52

Good morning everyone, my 1996 volvo 960 does not seem to be getting gas. There is more than enough gas in the tank, I have checked all of the fuses, I had the fuel pump replaced a year ago. Someone told me it could be the fuel filter, the fuel pump, the shrader (sp??) or carburator. I don't even see the carburator, at least it is not where it is on other vehicles. My user manual does not even discuss a fuel pump or filter. Does anyone have any thoughts? Signed, a woman in distress

Post by **precopster** » 21 Apr 2012, 08:09

Hi there are two things that will stop a 960 (or any other car with an internal combustion engine) from starting.

One is an absence of spark and the second is an absence of gas or fuel

On the end of the fuel rail (long aluminium tube that runs alongside the engine on the intake side) you will see a cap like that on a car tire. Go and turn the ignition on and remove the cap then press in the small valve head and see if fuel squirts out.

If it doesn't either the fuel pump or fuel relay may be the problem.

If fuel squirts out you probably have an absence of spark which can be a number of things on a 960. Cam or crank sensor may have failed or either of the 2 ignition control units may have failed.

Do the first test and post back. Either me or somebody else will take it from there.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 21 Apr 2012, 08:40

On the end of the fuel rail (long aluminium tube that runs alongside the engine on the intake side) you will see a cap like that on a car tire. Go and turn the ignition on and remove the cap then press in the small valve head and see if fuel squirts out.

Well no fuel squirted out..

Post by **precopster** » 21 Apr 2012, 09:10

That's a good thing, if you can believe it. Lack of fuel narrows it down to either the pump itself or the relay.

I've attached pg 22 of the wiring diagram, which handles fuel and engine management . See if you can have a neighbour or friend etc take a look and see if they can find the relay responsible for fuel. On the 92-94s it's in the engine bay near the front strut tower but was moved post '95. If anyone out there knows where it is now is the time...

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 21 Apr 2012, 10:38

I found a relay (square) that is for the fuel on the side by the fuses. I am going to see if I can get one at a local auto parts store. Also, I know this may sound like a naive question, but where exactly is the fuel pump located? My user manual does not show it; I am sure because it for basic maintenance only. Thanks so much!

Post by **billofdurham** » 21 Apr 2012, 12:04

The 1996 model should have only one fuel pump in the tank.

Have you checked fuse #4 in the engine compartment fuse box?

Bill.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 22 Apr 2012, 08:22

Hello Bill, well yesterday was a challenge because I had to arrange to get another vehicle until I can get this figured out. Yes, I checked all the fuses, they are all good; I guess that leaves the fuel pump? Or could it be as simple as the fuel filter? Just to add a note, my check engine light came on a few weeks ago and when scanned it said it was P17 Bank 1 system to rich but then the check engine light went off after two weeks. Is the fuel pump in the gas tank? Please say it isn't so..

Post by **billofdurham** » 22 Apr 2012, 12:01

It is in the tank but is fairly easy to access. On the Volvo you don't need to drop the tank as that nice Mr. Volvo cut a hole in the luggage area floor just so you could work on the pump.

I guess that leaves the fuel pump? Or could it be as simple as the fuel filter?

Can you hear the fuel pump when you first switch on the ignition? It is only a momentary sound so is best heard by removing the inspection cover in the luggage space floor and listening to the pump whilst someone switches on the ignition.

Before diving in to the pump what happened with the relay? An easy check for the fuel system relay, which is the middle relay of three in the passenger compartment fuse box, is to put your finger on it and switch on the ignition. You should feel a click inside the relay. Switching off and on should produce a click each time. If there is no click fuse #4 in the engine compartment fuse/relay box may have blown. This is the box on the driver's side of the car between the air cleaner and the shock turret. If that fuse is intact, best checked with an ohmmeter, try flicking the relay with your finger. This can nudge a lazy relay into life, albeit not a permanent solution.

Bill.

davolvo · Post by **davolvo** » 24 Apr 2012, 07:32

Hello Bill, sorry, so much going on (except my car) I will give the relay a flick. I have checked all the fuses. I priced a relay locally $77 on line $12, wow. So I can get to the fuel pump through the truck? Really? That would be awesome! Is the inspection cover were the spare tire is? What does a fuel pump sound like? Sorry..

danr960 · Post by **danr960** » 24 Apr 2012, 09:17

Replacing a fuel pump that is located in the fuel tank is not for the faint of heart. It is a very dangerous job. One spark, from static electricity and at the least your car is gone. It will take some muscle to turn the large ring nut that holds the hoses and wires, care must be taken with the gasket on the ring nut.

The fuel filter would be the last thing I would suspect, in this day and age of retail fuel delivery, a filter in a metropolitan area should last a lifetime.

I first would make sure it actually is the fuel pump, one year on the pump makes me think to look else where.

One can read ohm resistance on the pump itself, or run 12 volts directly to the pump and see if it starts.

When you turn the key to start, do other things go one, such as the headlights, radio, blower? A bad ignition switch can be a cause.

Also, these cars are designed to cut off fuel flow if there is no sense of spark, so one should make sure there is spark.

On line purchases, while can be much cheaper, one has to beware, there are some really cheap parts out there and some are outright dangerous. So know who the manufacturer is, I avoid any and all scantech parts.

DanR '94 964 367,000 miles (133,000 on the new engine)