Rob,
How is the flow of the pump and rad? Has he checked that yet? You need to dismiss any old data/findings and get current answers.
It really sounds like a flow issue but you need some accurate data to move forward. (ie -what temp is top of rad? does electric fan turn on when AC is on? Is thermostat fully opening? What was flow like at idle with upper hose and T stat removed? How is flow in rad?) All these things need to be checked now , instead of relying on old data, so you can get this sorted.
If you were closer a problem like this only take 2 hours to fully sort out. I think it is taking longer because current answers to above questions are not yet available to assist the diagnosis.
Let us know the answers to those questions and it should be easy to sort out.
244-Overheating above 105 degrees Topic is solved
-
jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
OK, I'm satisfied it is running warm. LOL
I have a real issue with raising a hood and throwing parts under it and then diagnosing when that doesn't fix it.
Now I'm going to mention something else simple that needs to be assured is not the problem: bugs, dirt, other debris build up in condenser and /or radiator.
Your idle irregularity sounds like a throttle switch that is not always signalling closed throttle due to adjustment or dirty throttle or both.
I have a real issue with raising a hood and throwing parts under it and then diagnosing when that doesn't fix it.
Now I'm going to mention something else simple that needs to be assured is not the problem: bugs, dirt, other debris build up in condenser and /or radiator.
Your idle irregularity sounds like a throttle switch that is not always signalling closed throttle due to adjustment or dirty throttle or both.
Phoenix temperature today 110 degrees. Probably closer to 115 degrees down on the blacktop which has not turned squishy at least when you walk across it. Coming from the Midwest it is an experience to walk across blacktop and have it give under the weight of a 120 pound person ( not me I weigh
more ).
Here is what I had done and why:
Vehicle 1992 – 244 Volvo – almost 164,000 miles. At 83,000 miles we had the same problem and replaced the radiator with a large radiator, a pusher fan and a larger engine fan.
Problem was solved until last year at about 160,000 miles.
When the engine blew a head gasket because I did not believe the gauge was correct. Head gasket replaced along with a reconditioned head. Replaced the water pump, two thermostats, radiator has been taken out and rodded ( twice as of today ). Clutch fan has been replaced.
So, last week, I hunted around for a radiator shop to take out the previously rodded radiator to see if the work had been done correctly last year because my mechanic did not do the radiator work it was contracted out. Answer: Work had been done properly. All the fans were checked and all the fans, Clutch, pusher and engine fan are working properly. Water flow is good.
Took it out and drove it in 110 degree heat 5 miles on the freeway at 65 mph = gauge normal.
Idled in traffic on and off for about 10 minutes. Pulled in to apartment complex parking lot. Put car in park with the A/C on for 23 minutes = gauge normal. Put car in drive position with A/C on and pulled the parking brake within 7 minutes gauge started going up. Push the gas petal down halfway with car in neutral = gauge returned to normal. This problem “only” appears at or above 105-107 degrees with car idling in drive position. If the outside temperature would remain in the 90 – 100 degree range it will not overheat.
Noticed that in park with A/C running the idle is higher than with the car engage into drive position which is normal.
The air flow across the engine is good with all the fans and am confident the temperature gauge is working and the engine is overheating.
Unless a good case can be made for some other problem:
Here is my theory and why:
Since, we had this problem before at 83,000 miles and a new radiator solved the problem. My feeling is it is a water flow problem some way shape or form.
Which leads me to two theories:
1) Water pump ( not original ) was replaced with another water pump not a Volvo water pump. Question: Is there a difference in the amount of water per minute pumped by the after market pump vs a Volvo water pump? At 110 degrees it would not take too much of a difference to make a car overheat.
2) For lack of anything of substance other than – it worked at 83,000 miles with the same problem. Putting in a custom radiator – using the same cores but my understanding is adding more cross pipes and increasing the fin density by twice.
Person at the radiator shop is going to discuss the problem with some people with more experience. He has 23 years in the radiator shop business and rebuilt engines for 13 years prior to owning the radiator shop.
While at the radiator shop a man came in ( deer in the headlights look ) with a “brand new Chevy truck” that was having the same problem and the dealer was at a loss of options. Welcome to 110 degrees in Phoenix.
Appreciate all the help in trying to solve this issue.
Thanks & Take Care!
Rob O'Halloran
more ).
Here is what I had done and why:
Vehicle 1992 – 244 Volvo – almost 164,000 miles. At 83,000 miles we had the same problem and replaced the radiator with a large radiator, a pusher fan and a larger engine fan.
Problem was solved until last year at about 160,000 miles.
When the engine blew a head gasket because I did not believe the gauge was correct. Head gasket replaced along with a reconditioned head. Replaced the water pump, two thermostats, radiator has been taken out and rodded ( twice as of today ). Clutch fan has been replaced.
So, last week, I hunted around for a radiator shop to take out the previously rodded radiator to see if the work had been done correctly last year because my mechanic did not do the radiator work it was contracted out. Answer: Work had been done properly. All the fans were checked and all the fans, Clutch, pusher and engine fan are working properly. Water flow is good.
Took it out and drove it in 110 degree heat 5 miles on the freeway at 65 mph = gauge normal.
Idled in traffic on and off for about 10 minutes. Pulled in to apartment complex parking lot. Put car in park with the A/C on for 23 minutes = gauge normal. Put car in drive position with A/C on and pulled the parking brake within 7 minutes gauge started going up. Push the gas petal down halfway with car in neutral = gauge returned to normal. This problem “only” appears at or above 105-107 degrees with car idling in drive position. If the outside temperature would remain in the 90 – 100 degree range it will not overheat.
Noticed that in park with A/C running the idle is higher than with the car engage into drive position which is normal.
The air flow across the engine is good with all the fans and am confident the temperature gauge is working and the engine is overheating.
Unless a good case can be made for some other problem:
Here is my theory and why:
Since, we had this problem before at 83,000 miles and a new radiator solved the problem. My feeling is it is a water flow problem some way shape or form.
Which leads me to two theories:
1) Water pump ( not original ) was replaced with another water pump not a Volvo water pump. Question: Is there a difference in the amount of water per minute pumped by the after market pump vs a Volvo water pump? At 110 degrees it would not take too much of a difference to make a car overheat.
2) For lack of anything of substance other than – it worked at 83,000 miles with the same problem. Putting in a custom radiator – using the same cores but my understanding is adding more cross pipes and increasing the fin density by twice.
Person at the radiator shop is going to discuss the problem with some people with more experience. He has 23 years in the radiator shop business and rebuilt engines for 13 years prior to owning the radiator shop.
While at the radiator shop a man came in ( deer in the headlights look ) with a “brand new Chevy truck” that was having the same problem and the dealer was at a loss of options. Welcome to 110 degrees in Phoenix.
Appreciate all the help in trying to solve this issue.
Thanks & Take Care!
Rob O'Halloran
-
MoVolvos
- Posts: 5273
- Joined: 15 January 2012
- Year and Model: S&V70XC,S60,C30,XC90
- Location: NC
- Has thanked: 310 times
- Been thanked: 524 times
When the Temp started going up did you let it stabilize to see how high it goes? Perhaps it will just remain above the normal and no further. Since the Temp is capable of coming back down you may want to verify that the weather is not just too hot for your cooling system as a whole.Rob1 wrote:
... within 7 minutes gauge started going up. Push the gas petal down halfway with car in neutral = gauge returned to normal. This problem “only” appears at or above 105-107 degrees with car idling in drive position. If the outside temperature would remain in the 90 – 100 degree range it will not overheat.
Have you also checked your Thermostat to see if it is working? Air in the system?
How To Fix An Overheating Car (The Long and Short of it)
He actually answers emails! Albeit, in a week or so.
Blessings,
BKM
-
Blessings,
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
BKM
2008 C30 T5 2.0 M66
2007 S60 2.5T - New Project
2003 S80 T6 Transmission DIED
2000 S70 SE Base - New Project
1998 S70 T5 Prior
1989 240 Wagon Prior
-
jimmy57
- Posts: 6694
- Joined: 12 November 2010
- Year and Model: 2004 V70R GT, et al
- Location: Ponder Texas
- Has thanked: 4 times
- Been thanked: 320 times
The water pump may be the cause. Volvo parts division tested a bunch of aftermarket water pumps several years back, probably in 89 or 90, and the flow rates were less than the OEM pump. Some were close and others were a lot less.
The 84 760 turbo had overheat problems and they had a smaller water pump pulley as a fix to speed up the pump a bit.
Whether or not that pulley is available 27 years later and if anyone is left at Volvo parts that even knows about it is another question. I worked at a dealer then and I remember it well as I installed several.
Does the pusher fan run when it is idling and the gauge climbs?
The 84 760 turbo had overheat problems and they had a smaller water pump pulley as a fix to speed up the pump a bit.
Whether or not that pulley is available 27 years later and if anyone is left at Volvo parts that even knows about it is another question. I worked at a dealer then and I remember it well as I installed several.
Does the pusher fan run when it is idling and the gauge climbs?
Appreciate all your help.
Question: Does the pusher fan run when it is idling and the gauge climbs? Response: Yes.
Question: On a brand new 1992 Volvo 240. Does anyone know what the diameter of the pulley was on the water pump?
Then I can check the diameter of the existing pulley on this vehicle with the factory installed pulley.
Thanks & Take Care!
Rob O'Halloran
Question: Does the pusher fan run when it is idling and the gauge climbs? Response: Yes.
Question: On a brand new 1992 Volvo 240. Does anyone know what the diameter of the pulley was on the water pump?
Then I can check the diameter of the existing pulley on this vehicle with the factory installed pulley.
Thanks & Take Care!
Rob O'Halloran
-
- Similar Topics
- Replies
- Views
- Last post