Timing Belt Removal/KTC Cam Locking Tool questions

[j_cd]

I'm getting ready to pull the cylinder head on my '98 S70 GLT. This will be my first time removing the timing belt. The oil pump mark is spot on, and the cam sprocket marks are lined up pretty well with the upper timing cover notches.



My indie volvo mechanic installed a new timing belt, tensioner and pulley just a few months ago. I'm sure those are his whiteout marks on the rear of the cam sprockets. He's not open today, so I'm asking here. Do you think the whiteout marks are just to designate the rear of the cam sprockets? Do I need to mark anything further before removing the tensioner and belt?

Also, I bought the KTC Tools Volvo Camshaft/Crankshaft Locking Tool, which comes with no instructions whatsoever.



I'm following a few tutorials on cylinder head replacement, so the Cam Locking Tool is mostly self explanatory. I'm wondering though, is this small piece below what you're supposed to insert in the hole behind the starter to lock the crankshaft?



If anyone has used this tool kit, maybe you could clue me in. Thanks.

[jimmy57]

Ignore the paint. I often do cam belts with no mark alignment and only my paint marks. His marks won't mean anything to your head R&R task.

winged handle rigs are used for pulling top of head down to close the gap between the two parts when going together.
bent plate at top will hold front of cams into the upper head when removing and installing.
the tool on the left, 2 short bolts, 2 long bolts, and the two round tabbed extensions are for indexing (aligning) the cams. Your will not need the extensions and long bolts for your 98.
The last tool shown also in the other picture is inserted into the hole behind removed starter and the crank is rotated CCW to stop against the pin for 100% accurate crank alignment. This is optional, especially on non CVVT engines, if you are sure to look straight down and get the oil pump pointer and notches on crank gear aligned spot on.

[j_cd]

Fantastic jimmy57!

My friend said you don't want to lock the crank if you're going to be cleaning the piston crowns. That way you can turn the crank to get each piston at the top of it's cylinder before cleaning. And he said to put a little grease around the piston edges first, to keep debris from getting down in the cylinder sleeve.

The oil pump pointer is definitely spot on the line in the valley, between the two slotted teeth, so I think I'm good to go.

[jimmy57]

The alignment is critical only on assembly. The pin gets kicked out if you turn engine normal direction.
I always use air blower and blow out cylinders, bolts holes and all passages to get any gasket cleaning debris out. When the head comes off it is a good idea to blow out any coolant that gets in cylinder and to spray wd-40 or wipe motor oil on exposed cylinder wall.

[byeboy]

Those thick spacer-looking things with the fins on them are for the distributor and camshaft sensor cam ends. The two ends are different in the way the slots in the cams relate to the seam between the upper cam holder part of the cylinder head assembly, . The cam slot will sit above one, and below the other. When you put the holder tool on, it only will fit the correct way, and locks the cams into perfect position. I used the extension with my 97 to avoid having to remove the upper engine mount bracket...the extension allowed me to straddle it.

Excellent write up on those slots, with pictures in:

[j_cd]

Cool byeboy, I've seen pictures of the slots, so I'm ready for that.

As for the upper engine mount bracket, we already removed it. The bushing was in pieces, so I just bought a whole new torque arm. My friend said I should get it chrome plated. I was thinking blue anodized maybe. Chrome wold match the RIP kit though, so there's an excuse to buy that (RIP kit). I'd go with the full Snabb FMIC kit, but you have to delete SAS, and I might put a transmission cooler there instead.

[j_cd]

Even if you mess up and the camshafts get out of whack, you can still use the tool to secure them. (rear cams)



On the front cams, you use the upper timing cover bolts to secure the tool. The top is facing down here. I'll get a picture of that part during reassembly.



Piston crowns definitely need a good cleaning.



I'll have to get a water pump to siphon this coolant out of the block.



And how does this cam follower look? Is that enough wear that they should be replaced? I did run with valve ticking a couple years back, before I got the oil pan seals replaced.



Yeah so anyway, the diagnosis had been bent exhaust valve on cylinder 1. Those valves have oil cake all over them, while the rest are dry. So I think maybe the valve stem seals just blew out.

[j_cd]

Got all the cam followers out and flipped the head over. Looks like one burnt valve.



The rest look great.



The machine shop quoted me $200, plus $35 if it needs to be decked, and another $30 to pressure test. He may have said pressure testing is included in the $200. I'm gonna bring the upper head and see if he'll throw that in the tank too.

[erikv11]

Classic burnt exhaust valve. Unfortunately!

Not clear from your posts so apologies if this is redundant, but be sure to get the shop to put in new valve stem seals. I argue against the cheapies and for Victor Reinz, you don't them going out again. I think jimmy57 recently posted about an aftermarket brand that does OK, but stay away from Elring.

[j_cd]

Indeed, I brought 20 Victor Reinz valve stem seals with me. Also an aftermarket exhaust valve that I bought from IPD. He looked at the oil buildup around the cylinder edges and said a little oil is getting through the piston rings. That's how a valve burns, hot oil gets through and hits the valve like a torch.

So he said eventually this will happen again. He wasn't pushing me to do the piston rings, just pointing it out. Thing is, I was planning to replace all the engine mounts anyway. I'm about a steering rack and a transmission away from just dropping the whole subframe, lifting the engine and having a ring job done on it.

I still don't have a new head gasket that I'm happy with though. I already told part of the story in the Performance section. I'll probably just use a Victor Reinz.

Oh yeah, so I brought the upper cylinder head with the cams attached just like in the picture above. He's putting the whole thing in the tank tonight, cams and all.