Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

volvogirl75 · Post by **volvogirl75** » 09 Aug 2012, 21:53

Valucraft not sure if model # is 417222 or 3379... autozone...

Post by **MoVolvos** » 09 Aug 2012, 21:55

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I apologize but I've never encountered the Trapped Air problem while working on the cooling system. I did do a complete drain and fill recently and allowed the car to run from cold to hot (fan came on) hoping there was no trapped air.

You may want to check the bypass making sure it does not have a kink. The heater core is a continuous flow type and not knowing the design of the block/head if the coolant no longer circulating could possibly cause the overheating.

How To Bleed A Cooling System - I am not sure if the Volvo has a bleeder screw? Do not pull the hose but let it sit with the top edge exposed to vent air. Hopefully someone else can chime in.

Finally, the hole in the Thermostat? When I replaced mine (EDIT: Put one in. Mine did not come with one) in Feb I remember it had a hole!

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **rspi** » 09 Aug 2012, 22:57

volvogirl75 wrote:Single mom..all repairs done y myself
Bypassed heater core...
slightly overheated after bypassing ...
replaced thermostat ...
refilling water and coolant couple times all of it seems to boil out top of reservoir when car running. Not when idling.
when driving 3-5 miles starts overheating
someone mentioned to me liquid glass as temp bandaid if possible cracked head or head gasket ...
I need every opinion I can get!!!
Flat broke! !
Can't even get work ...
about to lose home n job without car

Sorry to read about your problems. Sad to say, I think you have a blown head gasket. These heads are so soft, they warp pretty easy. Just getting that needle close to the red line once will finish them off sometimes. I just did the head on my daughter's car. Wasn't bad but cost us some $$$ and took a week (shop time and the 4th of July).
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-s70- ... ems-63516/

What you may want to check is the oil in the motor. You can pull the dip stick and see what color the oil is on the stick. If it looks like chocolate milk, your coolant is mixing with the oil. If the coolant and oil is not mixing, you can likely continue to drive the car and milk it. I'd pull the thermostat and see if it will drive cool with it out. The best speed to drive a car that is trying to overheat is 45 mph. I'm not real far from you so I know how hot it is. Call around to a few organizations like churches and ask if there is a car that someone wants to give away, you can get around for a while.

Let me know if you have any questions.

volvogirl75 · Post by **volvogirl75** » 09 Aug 2012, 23:26

Ugh! A few people have mentioned that BUT ...there aren't any signs of it. So far oil ok...we've been checking daily. But we kept opening reservoir to test things and a few people have mentioned air bubbles as well. No signs so far of oil mixing with coolant. Oil ok, no smoke, no coolant around spark plugs...
I guess that's why I asked opinion on liquid glass.
I couldn't get so lucky to find a car to borrow ..
Or even take over payments on...
thanks! Ill let u guys know after testing tomorrow

Post by **MoVolvos** » 10 Aug 2012, 00:25

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Just in case, here is some info on Liquid Glass. The consensus is not to use it! Lots of old timers I read used it but that was before the Internet so no way to get feedback on what really happened to the insides of the motors.
http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/no ... tle-6.html

This however seem to be safe though it is expensive

Fixing Tough Head Gasket Leaks

"so far so good, i've put about 5000 miles on car since treatment, "

Blessings,
BKM
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Post by **cn90** » 10 Aug 2012, 06:58

volvogirl75 wrote:Valucraft not sure if model # is 417222 or 3379... autozone...

I understand that you are short of budget but here are some free advices:

1. Your car was fine before the heater core bypass, so the current overheat is from the work you did.

2. Stop driving the car until you figure out this problem, otherwise a blown head gasket is very very expensive to fix.

3. Stay away from "Valucraft" brand from Autozone. This is the brand people put in when they try to sell the car tomorrow!!! This is exactly what the salesman at Autozone told me!
Just google "Autozone Valucraft thermostat" and you will see.

4. Get Wahler.
Autohausaz.com has it for $19.
Free shipping if you buy more than $50.

5. You may have to do compression tests to rule out head gasket problem!

Post by **rspi** » 10 Aug 2012, 07:12

Sad to say that you can have a head gasket leak that doesn't mix fluids. Mine was leaking combustion air into the coolant chambers causing the overflow reservoir to overflow while driving, emptying out the coolant from the motor. I think this is the sneakiest kind of "small leak" that will soon turn into a large leak (blown head gasket) and leave you stranded somewhere.

volvogirl75 · Post by **volvogirl75** » 10 Aug 2012, 10:24

Thanks y'all ...
No money meant cheapest part for me

if I take thermostat out all together and it runs better could that be my issue?
first thought after bypassing heater core was air bubble ..was unsure how to rectify that problem.
Everyone said replace thermostat. Done ..
started acting up first few miles driving after that.
why in the heck can it idle so well and overheat after couple miles? ??
I keep borrowing tools from people on my street ..I know I'm becoming a quick pain

it actually drove better before thermostat install. While test driving with just bypass it got hot and it would drop back down on it's own sitting at a light. But that 1st test drive when it got almost to red I pulled over and water was boiling out reservoir.
Omgosh!!! SO STRESSED OUT! absolutely no money to take to a shop!!!
I'm a very handy lady but don't really get this one.....

Post by **cn90** » 10 Aug 2012, 10:33

Look,

If you decide to get rid of the Autozone Valucraft tstat; then take it out and return to Autozone and get your precious $8 back.

Since you are in Houston with hot weather, and if you decide to run WITHOUT the tstat for now, do this:
- If you did not throw out the old thermostat then: remove the parts marked in BLUE color.
- Keep the flange (marked in PINK color).

The reason you want to keep the flange (PINK color) is that: without it, you cannot seat the tstat seal properly and it will leak.
As you know, when installing the seal, make sure it fits like a "sandwich" on the flange.
By-passing the Tstat should get you going for now.

: tstat.JPG (32.89 KiB) Viewed 2130 times

*** I will look in my garage, I may have a few spare parts (don't count on it but I will try).

volvogirl75 · Post by **volvogirl75** » 10 Aug 2012, 11:06

You guys are incredible! ! I don't even have friends or family as awesome and helpful as y'all!!
as soon as neighbors get home ill borrow torx again and let you know how I did

Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2

Re: Volvo 850 heater core replacement 2