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Would bad CV ball joint means replace axle?

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cn90
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Re: Would bad CV ball joint means replace axle?

Post by cn90 »

xHeart wrote:Passenger side CV boot is leaking grease, now driver side CV ball joint is grinding at acceleration and deceleration, both. It feels like driving on shoulder.
- Wheel Bearing: to diagnose bad wheel bearing: jack the driver side up, do not remove wheel, put car in neutral, spin the wheel and listen for noise.

- Bad CV joint usually manifests as noise during R/L turns.
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xHeart
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Post by xHeart »

cn90 wrote:
xHeart wrote:Passenger side CV boot is leaking grease, now driver side CV ball joint is grinding at acceleration and deceleration, both. It feels like driving on shoulder.
- Wheel Bearing: to diagnose bad wheel bearing: jack the driver side up, do not remove wheel, put car in neutral, spin the wheel and listen for noise.

- Bad CV joint usually manifests as noise during R/L turns.
Driver's side is up on jack. Neutral with parking brake pulled.
Rotating wheel by hand takes some energy, it is not light like bicycle wheel, doesn't move freely.
When spinning, there is a continues chirp, and it sound like wheels turning on stationary bike OR a treadmill sound when walking on incline, OR new conveyor at the baggage claim. Like hum of vacuum cleaner on carpet.

Not a squeal, more a squeak like a hinge needs oil.
A back-and-forth 12 - 1 positions has a hallow sound of wooden wall clock moves a second.

Little movement when rocking from 9/3 position.
Last edited by xHeart on 26 Sep 2012, 09:24, edited 1 time in total.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Now turn the steering wheel L (later R):
- Spin the wheel, does it make click-clack noise when the SW is all the way L or R?
If it does make that noise CV Joint is bad.

- Can you see any crack/opening in the CV boot?
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Post by rmmagow »

Somebody's gonna take out a hit on me but......Autozone has axles for under 70 each. They probably won't last forever but they are lifetimed. I've had middling success with their axles on a Subaru. Price is hard to beat. BUT from reading here, you might have bearing issues too. They have timekin for about $145.00
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Post by xHeart »

cn90 wrote:Now turn the steering wheel L (later R):
- Spin the wheel, does it make click-clack noise when the SW is all the way L or R?
If it does make that noise CV Joint is bad.

- Can you see any crack/opening in the CV boot?
Once while on jack, I turned the steering wheels it rolled away forward, and the jack flew out from underneath. Luckily, no injuries. Call me a chicken, I am not taking chances.

Yes, i do see cracking of CV at folds.
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Most rebuilders in the US (except for Raxles) use CV joints from China.
So if you pick up a rebuilt axle from EMPI, NAPA, Car Quest or Autozone, chances are the CV joint comes from China.
The problem with these axles: it is hit-and-miss thingy.
Also, axle work is no fun: the big 36-mm nut, the control arm bolts, etc. etc.

I always aim for: "do- it- once-and-do-it-right" philosophy.
So:
1. Either get Raxles to rebuild the axles......or

2. Get the GKN CV kit from the UK and done with.


PS: Timken FRONT wheel bearing is $90 or so (not $145).
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

xHeart wrote:...Once while on jack, I turned the steering wheels it rolled away forward, and the jack flew out from underneath. Luckily, no injuries. Call me a chicken, I am not taking chances.

Yes, i do see cracking of CV at folds.
Oh,

I thought you have the car on jack stand!
Always use jack stand (not jack)!
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Post by xHeart »

cn90 wrote:Most rebuilders in the US (except for Raxles) use CV joints from China.
So if you pick up a rebuilt axle from EMPI, NAPA, Car Quest or Autozone, chances are the CV joint comes from China.
The problem with these axles: it is hit-and-miss thingy.
Also, axle work is no fun: the big 36-mm nut, the control arm bolts, etc. etc.

I always aim for: "do- it- once-and-do-it-right" philosophy.
So:
1. Either get Raxles to rebuild the axles......or

2. Get the GKN CV kit from the UK and done with.

PS: Timken FRONT wheel bearing is $90 or so (not $145).
I concur, with suspension work however you said do-it-once, do-it-right, and ALIGN-IT-ONCE, therefore, would like to have all the right parts before taking the suspension all apart.
I have started soaking bolts with PB Blaster.
I am adding GKN and Timken to my order list.

Meanwhile, is the car safe to drive?
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cn90
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Post by cn90 »

Yes,

A bad CV joint just makes noise but safe to drive for a while.

Whatever you do, when working on the car, use Jack Stand for safety reasons!
Many people are killed every year when they use only the Jack!
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Post by obayha »

Easily confused when it comes to terms. Is this about changing the entire axle or just the bearings of the cv joint?
Sounds like just the joint. If this is the case, be sure and check the inner core of the housing for a wear pattern from the old bearings. This wear pattern can figure into the wear of new bearings of shorter life. If this isn't the case, then disregard this input. :D .
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