sorry everyone, this post seemed to get no attention at some point and now lots of replies:
O2 sensors are both new, Bosch OEM (according to FCP, my Volvo dealer still doubts they are not OEM, but he was not very helpful anyways)
Spark plugs are new, NGK pre-gapped. I didn't have a gapping tool, but the tips were protected by tubes and I'll just trust that they are set up darn close to perfect.
Gasoline type: I went from regular to highest octane I can get (86 to 91)
Rotor and Distributor had some deposits in them that I cleaned. I would have liked to have bought new ones, but to me this still does not explain why the emissions values worsened - almost doubled.
I'm completely at a loss here and tapping in the dark. I'll probably give the car to a competent shop today.
850 turbo 96: emissions failed: hi HC & CO, + O2 error codes
Re: 850 turbo 96: emissions failed: hi HC & CO, + O2 error c
New to Volvo, already liking it. Hoping to keep it in good shape, not like the previous Benz 190e
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
so, today I did a fuel injector cleaning from terraclean. It seems to be an amazing system. After the fuel injector cleaning and an oil change, I stopped by a mechanic to see what he thinks is wrong. We had the car idling for some time. Once I left his place, I had the dreaded blue cloud
Valve Stem Seals!
I guess now I know why I should have done the emissions test before buying the car. This is going to be a very time consuming repair, but I think I`ll take my time and go for it.
So question at this point:
Does anyone have a valve spring compressor for sale?
Also, which seals should I buy? The one tutorial that I found, mentions blue seals. The onlz ones I can find at FCP are red. Will those work like the OEM ones?
Any other hints? Tips?
Valve Stem Seals!
I guess now I know why I should have done the emissions test before buying the car. This is going to be a very time consuming repair, but I think I`ll take my time and go for it.
So question at this point:
Does anyone have a valve spring compressor for sale?
Also, which seals should I buy? The one tutorial that I found, mentions blue seals. The onlz ones I can find at FCP are red. Will those work like the OEM ones?
Any other hints? Tips?
New to Volvo, already liking it. Hoping to keep it in good shape, not like the previous Benz 190e
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
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vjaneczko
- Posts: 1550
- Joined: 27 March 2006
- Year and Model: 2006 S60R
- Location: San Antonio, TX
- Been thanked: 6 times
The write-up I used is here: https://sites.google.com/site/incarvalv ... s/write-up . Extremely helpful.
The seals I got from FCP (P/N 3517893 - Volvo BMW Saab Engine Valve Stem Oil Seal) were green, if I recall. Not a problem with them.
The Schley (SCH91400B) Universal Valve Spring Compressor I got from Amazon.com did a good job. It’s best to get a helper to hold the springs down while you pull the parts. Get a pair of forceps, a ‘magnet on a stick’ and valve stem pliers and you’ll be all set.
Other tips, in no particular order:
The clear silicone sealer I got from FCP (P/N 1161059) was extremely strong. I actually had to re-open the engine to replace a piston and the sealer was so strong that I broke off the front pry tab on the engine. When I had to clean it off, it was hard to see where it was and took a long time to remove. Go with something that has some color in it. Using razor blades is not a good idea because they flex too much. Get a few Exacto blades which are stiffer. The ‘flat’ blades (https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-218-Xacto- ... 5&sr=1-102) are better than the pointy ones.
If the engine is making the tapa-tapa-tapa noise, you may want to think about replacing the lifters and redoing the oil pan seals.
You should think about replacing other bits & pieces while you’ve got it apart. I replaced the timing belt, serp belt, tensioners, cam seals, water pump, various vacuum elbows, oil & water hoses for the turbo, even the turbo itself – but that was to get a bigger one
The old one had a crack and it was best to “go big”.
The seals I got from FCP (P/N 3517893 - Volvo BMW Saab Engine Valve Stem Oil Seal) were green, if I recall. Not a problem with them.
The Schley (SCH91400B) Universal Valve Spring Compressor I got from Amazon.com did a good job. It’s best to get a helper to hold the springs down while you pull the parts. Get a pair of forceps, a ‘magnet on a stick’ and valve stem pliers and you’ll be all set.
Other tips, in no particular order:
The clear silicone sealer I got from FCP (P/N 1161059) was extremely strong. I actually had to re-open the engine to replace a piston and the sealer was so strong that I broke off the front pry tab on the engine. When I had to clean it off, it was hard to see where it was and took a long time to remove. Go with something that has some color in it. Using razor blades is not a good idea because they flex too much. Get a few Exacto blades which are stiffer. The ‘flat’ blades (https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-218-Xacto- ... 5&sr=1-102) are better than the pointy ones.
If the engine is making the tapa-tapa-tapa noise, you may want to think about replacing the lifters and redoing the oil pan seals.
You should think about replacing other bits & pieces while you’ve got it apart. I replaced the timing belt, serp belt, tensioners, cam seals, water pump, various vacuum elbows, oil & water hoses for the turbo, even the turbo itself – but that was to get a bigger one
"He attacked everything in life with a mix of extraordinary genius and naive incompetence, and it was often difficult to tell which was which." - Douglas Adams
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
1997 855 GLT - R.I.P.
2006 S60R - For ME!
- pkc303
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 30 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
- Location: Houston, Texas
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 3 times
Did you try changing your plug wires? They wear out also. I had the same thing, but changed all you mentioned and the plug wires, and passed. I had no codes, just poor performance.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
- pkc303
- Posts: 600
- Joined: 30 April 2009
- Year and Model: 1995 T-5R Yellow
- Location: Houston, Texas
- Has thanked: 1 time
- Been thanked: 3 times
Update,
Well, a year rolled around, and I had the same problem, on the same car. I had the new rotor, the Volvo wires, and Bosch plugs in the car, and after the first failure of emissions in Harris County, Texas, I cleaned the plugs, check for vacuum leaks. No leaks. Checked the rotor and cap, no problems.
Then the second failure. With just the plugs cleaned. They looked fine.
I then replaced all the plugs with new Volvo plugs from the dealer. Still can't sit down after that purchase, however, they did it. The emissions were extremely low. Unbelievable how much difference the Volvo plugs make. The performance is back up to par, and all is well.
I'm now a believer in Volvo plugs. I don't know what makes them work so well in the 850, but all of our cars will get them now.
Well, a year rolled around, and I had the same problem, on the same car. I had the new rotor, the Volvo wires, and Bosch plugs in the car, and after the first failure of emissions in Harris County, Texas, I cleaned the plugs, check for vacuum leaks. No leaks. Checked the rotor and cap, no problems.
Then the second failure. With just the plugs cleaned. They looked fine.
I then replaced all the plugs with new Volvo plugs from the dealer. Still can't sit down after that purchase, however, they did it. The emissions were extremely low. Unbelievable how much difference the Volvo plugs make. The performance is back up to par, and all is well.
I'm now a believer in Volvo plugs. I don't know what makes them work so well in the 850, but all of our cars will get them now.
1995 Volvo 850 T-5R Yellow
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
1997 Volvo 850R (sold)
2003 Volvo V70 2.4T, K&N air filter, (sold)
1996 Volvo 940 (sold)
1992 Volvo 740 Turbo (sold)
1990 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1987 Volvo 240 Wagon (sold)
1982 Volvo DL (sold)
quick update: after the terraclean fuel injector cleaning, I actually passed the emissionstest. One of the values was right on the limit, but it was still enough to pass.
I have recently purchased everything to perform a valve stem seal replacement and everything that might as well be done (seals, timing belt and tentioners, PCV, just not the water pump, I didn't want to fork out extra for that, I'll do it, if it ever breaks).
No I just need a valve spring compressor to start the job. I did find this one on FCP Euro:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-audi-vw-volvo-valve-spring-compressor-kit-cta-2112
Has anyone used it? What does it mount to (since if doesn't have the bar that spans over the cyclinder head like the Schley tool)? Would the Neiko tool from Amazon do the trick as well? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GLIOSE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF
Cheers, Hans
I have recently purchased everything to perform a valve stem seal replacement and everything that might as well be done (seals, timing belt and tentioners, PCV, just not the water pump, I didn't want to fork out extra for that, I'll do it, if it ever breaks).
No I just need a valve spring compressor to start the job. I did find this one on FCP Euro:
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-audi-vw-volvo-valve-spring-compressor-kit-cta-2112
Has anyone used it? What does it mount to (since if doesn't have the bar that spans over the cyclinder head like the Schley tool)? Would the Neiko tool from Amazon do the trick as well? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GLIOSE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2ZSTDEXO9VTZF
Cheers, Hans
New to Volvo, already liking it. Hoping to keep it in good shape, not like the previous Benz 190e
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
Repairs so far: tie rods, outer CV Boot, air control flap, control rod, ABS module, various seals, motor mount
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Southbay850
- Posts: 57
- Joined: 7 November 2012
- Year and Model: 1995 854T
- Location: San Jose, ca
I know this sounds crazy but when all else fails try the evap purge solenoid. Then o2 sensors and if that does not do it replace the cat.
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